stevearado

I got a 2oz jar and a 1/72 Minicraft vega PV-1 Ventura (early verson). Never saw one before, but it looks interesting. last week in St. Louis: -photo etch set for a Japanese plane -resin ejection seats for a F-16 -micro brushes -Hasegawa F-18D Hoenet (1/72) -Hasegawa KI-44 Tojo fighter (1/72) -Hasegawa weapons set (1/72) -Older Hasegawa F-5E Tiger II (1/32) At $15, the Tiger was a great buy.

Here is a pic of a Hasegawa KI-15-1 "Babs" Recon plane that I started this week. I completed the cockpit and closed the fuse last night. I spent time today sanding away at the seams. I will post more Pics as I progress.

Sorry, here is the pic:

I applied 3 coats of future and added the decals with the exception of the wings. I'm still waiting for decals that contain the right sized meatballs for the wings. I used the kit decals for the horizontal stabilizer. I used super sol and was suprised with how well they layed down. The Techmod decals didn't react mush to the super sol, but were closer to the right color meatballs than those in the kit. I still have the floats to do yet.

This will be my first build for the Group Build. It's a 1/72 Hasegawa kit that I will build OOB eexcept for the paint scheme. Like most Hasegawa kits, it has extra parts as the sprue with the small parts is borrowed from their Zero kit. Extra parts include landing gear struts and covers. These are a lot better than those in the Academy kit and will substituted them when I build the Academy Zero. I cannot wait to finnish my other projects so I can start.

Last pic: the completed cockpit assembly before the fuse was closed up. Additional brybrushing was used to highlight the side walls of the cockpit. I painted it according to pics of the cockpit of the real NASM Seiran while it was undergoing restoration. This plane is not part of the PACAIR group build.

Here are the instrument panels before I installed them. I dry brushed the details and added some color with a sharpened tooth pick. I was impressed with the results.

Hello, I've been working on my Seiran float plane for 3 weeks now. Last night, I finnished painted the main airframe. All it needs now is some touching up before a cote it with future. Hopefully, I will get the floats painted in the next day or two. I'm painting it as the Seiran in the Air and Space Museum at Dulles. The pics may not be top quality, but I'm learning.

Here are some that I plan to enter (all 1/72): Hasegawa A6M2N Rufe Floteplane Fighter Hasegawa F4U-1D Corsair (USS Bunker Hill) Academy A6M5c Zero Fighter Fujimi B6N "Jill" Bomber

V-22 - Southern Maryland Lawn Dart A-3D - All 3 Dead

Hi, In looking at the RoG Swordfish I started a while back, I started to assemble the resin cockpit that I received from another member. The smaller parts are easy to cut off the runners, but the large, flat parts are another story. I tried an x-acto knife, but the blade ran through the part. I could try a saw. This is my first time using resin, and I would appreciate help from the experts. Thanks.

From experience, I found out that air pressure depends on the setting on the airbrush nozzle. With my Paache H, low pressures (10-15psi) are the best with lower nozzle settings. However, when I open up the paint nozzle at those settings, the brush will spit, so I crank up the pressure accordingly. Like urlooney, I crank up the pressuere while cleaning the brush.

A couple of times I screwed up and bought Testors Air Brushes. With a single action, you are better off with a rattle can. Double action was not too much better. Luckly, my local hobby shop only carry Paasche brushes and assessories. Knowing from experience, I returned the Testors double action, and bought a Paasche H. So far, it has provided me with great service. My stepdad also has a Paasche H that he has been using for almost 30 years with great results. I am thinking about also aquiring a double action brush soon (for finner work). I may look into Badgers, or stay with a Paasche

Where do you find Parafilm? I usually use Parma Liquid mask for canopies. It works fine, but I have to run my blade along the lines to remove it or it will sometimes pull off some paint on the canopy frame.

I tried this, and it worked very well! Thanks david. I have now started putting on the decals. Thanks to everyone else who also posted.

Thanks for replying. I used a combination of pactra and 3M masking tapes.

I was painting my F-100D with the Testors metalizer paints. After painting the aluminum, I maked off the tail area and sprayed it titanium. When I pulled off the tape afterwards, it pulled off some of the aluminum paint. it looks like I will have to respray. What can i do to prevent this in the future?

Hi, i have always used testors Contour Putty to fill seams. Quite often, I notice that some of the dried putty crumbles out of the seam or hole when I go to sand it. Is there a way to prevent this? Does anyone have this problem with Tamiya putty? How is Tamiya Putty compared to Testors?

That is exactly what I was trying to say. Thanks.

I am not sure if a tip like this already exists in the forum, but I will give it a try. On my 1/72 Italeri UH-1B Huey, I was having some problems hanging on to the small windows to put them on the model. I then remembered an article in an issue of Narrow Gauge and Short Line Gazette where someone was scratch building a HOn30 passenger car. To hold onto the windows to instal them, the builder used small strips of masking tape folded into a T shape stuck to the back sides. I carried this idea over to my Huey and it worked for me. in folding the tape, fold it so that the adhesive sides are a

I bought the can after I moved down here. I followed MaRiO FDZ's advice about setting the can in the warm water and I think it worked. Also, the humidity was not that high this evening. Collin, thanks for telling me about the model club. I started going in April and again two weeks ago. I had to go back to WV in May. Were you there this time? I brought in the Dauntless, Oscar, the B-25, and unfinnished P-40N. I sence finnished the P-40N and it is now in the case at Doug's. Thanks for the info! Steve Workman

Hello, I recently moved from West Virginia to Southern Maryland to start a new job. Here, I got back into building model airplanes after a few year dead period. Of the four planes I've built so far, I have been getting adverse effects from a can of Testors Dullcote laquor that I use as a final finnish. The effect is a fine pale orange-peal finnish, though not too serious oncertain models. In Southern Maryland, the humidity sometimes seems to be worse at the time of year I built these as opposed to West Virginia. Could this be a bad can, or a humidity issue?

Hi, I just ran into this kind of problem airbrushing Polly Scale I.J.A. Gray Acrylic with my Paasche airbush. After thinning the paint, it stuck in some places while it ran in others. I quickly ran it under the water faucet. Now my 1:72 scale Nakajima Nate looks like it was recovered from a Pacific Jungle . i an now about to give up yet, though.