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Everything posted by mhorina

  1. Helpful info goes along with what Dave said about drying time color changes. Again thanks to all responding. Mike
  2. Thank you for that. Love that paint but hate the smell. I use it only when I can open the windows. Will keep it in mind. Mike
  3. Dave, Thank you for that. I have added some red to the AeroMaster. And while it has darkened, it still looks too green to my eye. Actually you have made a good point. I have painted the fuselage where the windows will go. And each side has been painted a little red on 1 side and a with a little more red on the other side. I will wait awhile and compare them. Right now they still look too green, but are darker than the original. Thanks again to all that have responded. Mike
  4. Don, Thank you for that info.
  5. Don, Thanks for chiming in. Humbrol is ifie, Xtracolour I have never used. Mike
  6. PFlint Thanks, maybe I'll get that. I use Lacquer thinner with Tamiya flats. Mike
  7. Hal, Thank you. I have a fresh, sealed, bottle of AeroMaster 9040 US Olive Drab 41 ANA 613. While it sprayed great, it is too green. I'll try adding some red. Thanks again. Mike
  8. What brand to use to paint a P-40E, not water based, in 41overall.
  9. Almost the first day of spring. Any further news on the T-2 Buckeye sheet? Mike Horina
  10. Kyle, offer in the works, check your PM Mike Horina
  11. Pascal Thank you for the info on the wires. Excellent build your doing, wonderful workmanship. And please continue sharing your work with us here. Thanks for that also. Mike Horina
  12. 53 Marine, Please check your PM. Trade offer. Mike Horina
  13. Zaktwist, Thank you for this info concerning the spar. Another question if I may. I was wondering about the fit of the Aires IP because with the Eduard cockpit set you cannot fit the IP if you have glued the two side walls to the floor first. Could this be the same problem with the Aires set? Or did you fit the IP with only one side glued on? Thanks for any info concerning this item. By the way, I really like the way the bottom of your model turned out. The entire model looks very nice and well done. Mike Horina
  14. I was wondering because I have both the Aires and the Eduard cockpit sets. Does the lack of the locating bars, for the wing spar, that is on the Revell kit cockpit's underside contribute to the Aires fit problem and secondly does the missing locaters allow the wing spar to align properly? The Eduard set has the locating spar bars on the bottom of their set just like the Revell kit. Anyone have this info or those that have used the Aires set think this could be the problem with the fit? Mike Horina
  15. Hi Pascal, Two questions if I may, what are you using for the spark plug wires? And what size is it? Thanks in advance. You are doing a beautiful assembly job. Thanks for sharing. I hope we see more of this excellent build. Mike Horina
  16. Randy, I believe the Hase boxed 14AS is the G-10 kit with 14AS specific decals. I t would have the correct CWSD on the starboard side a/c both positions are there. However it only has the larger oil tank fill position. The 14AS requires the lower fill position to indicate the smaller oil tank. However you would need to reshape either/or the rear of the canopy or the fuselage section it meets as some think this area is not correct or you could just leave it as is. Mike Horina
  17. John, Thank you for the extra pics. Nice extra work you've done also. I appreciate it. Mike Horina
  18. Griffin, Thanks for that. I finally was able to see those areas. I had a though time. I kept looking at the ceiling. Thanks again. Mike Horina
  19. Hi John, Thank you for that picture. I have always wondered about the rudder linkage routing. That picture you posted of your work on the Aires pit shows the cabling better then any picture I've seen. Thanks for that. I for one think, that item and the routing of some of the cables that the Aires pit shows where they attach to the pit's back wall almost makes it worth the cost. However any more pics you might feel like posting of those areas would be appreciated by those of us who would rather not buy that particular pit because we may have already purchased several others that we thought we
  20. 11Bee The port side as you indicated the lower oil fill location. On the starboard side the same thing will apply to the CWSD which is also lower. Not high up where most kits have a panel line. Another thing maybe is that the rudder on the 14AS has a flat lower edge. All the G-10 pics I have seen have a rudder like the 32nd Hasegawa 109G-10 kit. Rounded bottom edge with a small light on the end tip. Mike Horina
  21. 11bee, Maybe I can help: G-14AS lower CWSD G-10 high CWSD, AS lower oil fill 10 higher oil fill, most AS small wheel bulges most 10s large wheel bulges, tall rudders different lower end shapes could be called early/late, AS no 30mm cannon some 10s with a panel lower starboard fuselage for those 10s with 30mm. The G-6 kit has 3 tall rudders the G10 Eral kit has another rudder with a rounded lower edge shape like found on the Hase G-10 kit HTH but I probably missed something important Mike Horina
  22. Take a look at thumbnail 15, its the last pic on the number 3 thumbnail panel. Looks like the spread of the gun troughs has been redone for the better. There also looks like there may be 2 different air intakes. Bad thimg the same elevators are still used . Mike Horina
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