Aggie96

You may also try going to a art supply or craft store and pick up some acrylic retarder. The stuff I've got is about the consistancy of CA glue and a couple of drops in the paint cup with the paint and thinner helps keep it from clogging as fast. The stuff I've got is made by Golden, here is a link!

If you were masking with tape, I'd say give it a day to cure and remove some of the tackiness by sticking the tape to the palm of your hand and pulling it up a few times. Blu-tac, several hours should be sufficient, but handle gently, as you may leave some unwanted finger prints in the first coat. Drying time really varies depending on the temperature and humidity. You'll have to make that call... I'd encourage learning to freehand the soft edge stuff on some test kits. Takes practice but the results are great. Then you can avoid this unholy combination of tamiya tape, blu-tac, post-it no

There are no stupid questions! Well, maybe a few, but that wasn't one of them... I'd say follow the rule of lightest to darkest. Do the Gray, then Green (without having to worry about the overspray on the belly off the beast), then mask it off and hit the black. That is what I'd be prone to doing...if you go black first and get it in an area where a lighter color has to go, it will take more coats to cover it. Sounds like a cool paint job either way!! Good Luck

really looking good there wingman. What method did you use to mask the hard edge on the green "splotches"? :D Really sharp lines and shapes. I usually use blu-tac worms, but can't get that good definition. I've got this kit coming from Squadron and have done the E model already. Can't wait to get started... enjoying the build.

WOW!

I think the panels look good. Nice variation. You may want to hit the panels around the exhausts with either the dark aluminum or duraluminum as well. See it in reference photos at times... totally up to you though, keep up the great work! Your friend will be happy with this one... :D

Great work. I built up the Tamiya bubbletop with those markings, now I wish I'd waited :) That kit might be a good first try in the 32nd scale arena! That or the Hase 109G-6...I'm not sure which... Oh, and I'm guilty of following the build but not posting. If it is any consolation I'll take props and pin-ups to grey on grey and burner cans anyday! Keep up the good work!

Funny you should mention it! Fine Scale Modeler ran a feature on htis very topic in the latest issue (May 2007). Some good information. Here is the article: "Start - or restart - your modeling!" their recommendations may be hit or miss, depending on different folks opinions, but it gives a good idea of what all is out there and why you might need/want it... As far as internet retailers, Roll Models, Squadron, Meteor Productions, and others. Welcome back and enjoy!

Here is my set up. We recently remodelled the home office in our house. The former owners had this built in desk/counter and I salvaged it, put new legs on it and *poof* my perfect set up on the cheap. the whole counter is 7'6" long and about 2 feet deep. You can get prefab kitchen counter slabs fairly cheap, some legs and you are ready to go! :(

I think he meant the inline water trap. A Water or Moisture trap is some thing you mount between your airbrush and the air source (compressor/tank) to catch moisture that will build in the line. Important for not getting that spatter of water on your paint job and making you want to break things... Available at places that carry compressor gear or at hardware stores. Example of combination regulator w/ trap (you can get just the trap though):

I tend to agree with Jeff above regarding the heat of the thinner in the enamel. I've tried to use Testors MM Airbrush thinner for a wash and it did just what it did to you ate through everything, including my future. I'd stick with turpenoid/mineral spirits. As others have said, let the clear coat you are washing over fully cure as well and don't use too much pressure when cleaning up with a swab or cloth. work off the excess slowly, maybe with a swab slightly damp with your thinner.

OBD, I always knew why I seemed to like you and your posts come across with such wisdom and bredth of knowledge :)

Dax, I've used baremetal foil and it works great! measure the height of the strut, cut a piece long enough to wrap around at that height and burnish down with tooth pick working around till it overlaps. I've also gotten good result from Floquil Bright Silver paint. Good luck!

Being a pipe smoker I've always got these laying around... You can buy them by at smokingpipes.com here in the US. $0.99 per 60 for the regular ones... a little dip in the Lacquer Thinner and go to town...also make them with plastic bristles. Great for breaking up thick spots...

Those are exactly what I've got! Three side by side. Look great, especially with the halogens. Minimizes dust too. I've got others on shelves and an old bookcase as well. Well worth the @$60.