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David Hingtgen

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Everything posted by David Hingtgen

  1. David Hingtgen
    Hmmmn----this video made it look to me like the RAM tape is as "thick and 3D" as many others, and IMHO is a deal-killer: Screenshots:
  2. David Hingtgen
    I'd like to get 3 "MBD3-U6" bomb racks in 1/72---this is sprue L in Trumpeter's Su-24 and Su-34 kits, the 6-bomb MER basically. Trumpeter will only sell 1 spare sprue per kit at a time, and charges exorbitant shipping. I'd prefer to just get a couple sprues from people who have loaded theirs up with with larger bombs and missiles, and aren't using the racks for the small 100kg bombs.
  3. David Hingtgen
    Might not be exact, but I believe 166608 was one of the first to have them from the factory, in 2005. (VFA-143's first CAG bird) ::edit:: Can't independently verify it, but I found a note I wrote down years ago: "166607 (E) and 166635 (F)" for the change-over at the factory.
  4. David Hingtgen
    Does it have to be a single AIM-120?(I'm not even sure that's possible under-wing, dual-launcher or nothing AFAIK) Does it have to be a D model? I saved this file as being an Operation Iraqi Freedom load, but not what squadron.
  5. David Hingtgen
    Italeri 837, the "F-14A Plus" is not an A+/B. It is simply an A. Only PW engines are in the box, and the decals it comes with are appropriate. Also, it's known for having "odd" plastic that is sometimes hard to glue----I can attest to that.
  6. David Hingtgen
    Hmmm. I've seen stencils for spraying Luftwaffe mottling, that may work (better for me than trying to freehand it). And instead of mixing, simply using different brands of the base color could give a similar effect. (no two bottles of ghost greys are alike!)
  7. David Hingtgen
    Yeah, you would need an incredibly finely-ground mica or pearl to look at all good. Personally, I think "oversized" mica would look better than none at all, but that's just me. They do look awfully "plain grey" in a lot of lighting. But your standard "Tamiya clear pearl" is basically "glitter in a can". Maybe custom hot rod/motorcycle paints have extra-finely ground pearl additive for airbrushing, that may work well? Some of them are quite "subtly" pearl with very small particles.
  8. David Hingtgen
    Another related question----I've seen "ever better" techniques for doing a weathered TPS finish over the years. If "level 1" is raw "35237 with pro modeler wash" and "level 6" is "pre-shading, post-shading, wash, spraying individual panel/access seams with a lighter color of the base, then salt, then a thin coat of the base color to fade it all out"---what would a "level 2" be? As in, best bang-for-the-buck, one more step to add beyond just a basic panel-line wash, to make it more realistic, without going all-out into a multi-step multi-day process. (Same goal as building it---want "maximum
  9. David Hingtgen
    Looks pretty universal for the Tamiya at this point. Maybe buy an Academy as "practice" first. PS----anybody interested in a few 72nd Hase kits? Still have few in my stash. 🙂
  10. David Hingtgen
    Haven't done much modelling the last few years, and I've been looking through a lot of builds lately, of the Tomcats that have come out in the past few years (while I wasn't building any!)---I don't think any has been praised as "clearly the best one ever"----that said, I'm wondering what one "has the best odds of looking good when built". A master modeler can deal with any issue in any kit---that's not me! I'm looking for one where I won't have to spend 100 hours trying to get parts to fit. I would basically want to "slap it together out of the box, and be proud of it". Skills are rusty,
  11. David Hingtgen
    Ok, I found "the rule" from Imgur: "As long as images are getting at least 1 view every 6 months, they will stick around forever. After that, your image may be removed to create more space for newer images." So, if at least twice a year, someone views the pic, it should be ok. But if it's an old thread from 2015 (or 2005!), it may have lapsed...
  12. David Hingtgen
    Imgur is temporary though---don't expect that link to work a year (or 2 months) from now. They constantly "cycle" their stuff. The link may still technically work---but it'll have been assigned to a new pic that someone else uploaded. Some forums have banned Imgur for that reason---you upload a pic, but a few months later--it's been replaced with someone else's VERY not-safe-for-work photo. And yeah, my account is "locked down" too. I'm not going to go through and re-do every post on every forum I've ever made. Those posts will just "wither and die" without their pics. (Pho
  13. David Hingtgen
    Those are not an F-16's tailplanes...
  14. David Hingtgen
    If you build it gear-up and use decal windows, is there any reason to go with the Revell?
  15. David Hingtgen
    Haze grey is too dark and too cool. You want a VERY pale grey, slightly warm. Coroguard? Lots of options. Most any mix of metallic+grey will be "in the ballpark". For an early 747, I'd go quite warm. Like steel or even bronze mixed with silver and grey. Pure metallic or pure grey is too extreme for coroguard.
  16. David Hingtgen
    It's a very warm silver. And a "grainy grey" silver. "Titanium" is a good description, or like "very very pale champagne gold". Grey+silver+a hint of clear orange would probably come close, if you were mixing from scratch. But no simple "silver" paint will be very close at all.
  17. David Hingtgen
    Any updates? Love trijets!
  18. David Hingtgen
    I found that MM acryl sticks well to MM enamel. Use a cheap flat grey MM enamel spray can as your primer, then do your actual color/camo coats in acryl on top of that.
  19. David Hingtgen
    If you are doing Delta, be sure to check the fairing at the base of the vertical fin---late A340/330's have a different one (bulkier, more angled), and I know some of Delta's have it---I think actually all of theirs do. The kit is of course, the earlier version.
  20. David Hingtgen
    I never knew Welsh did both early and late pylons. Which releases have which? Also---if they paid that much attention to detail, did they do with and without hump SATCOM fairings? And what about h.stab leading edge fairings?
  21. David Hingtgen
    Just to bring this full circle, this is 4X-JYD, an original 707-120. With JT3C engines. Looks like a reverser cascade array to me. :)
  22. David Hingtgen
    From the opening on the nacelle at the wing leading edge, it looks to have the wide fairing for the pylon, indicating a -200Adv. Is the kit a -200Adv, or will it have parts for early versions, etc?
  23. David Hingtgen
    This is my main beef with so many "large" RC planes---basic shape issues. I've seen stuff that's like 1/10 or 1/20 scale, with frankly horrendous shapes that are worse than some 1/144 or 1/200 Chinese knockoffs of kits from the 60's. With that much larger a structure to work off of, you'd think they could hold to within a half-inch (actual, not scale) for the basic outline. I think a lot of them frankly get a basic 3-view line-art like this: And use that as their one and only reference.
  24. David Hingtgen
    Was going to mention this, but it's already been said.
  25. David Hingtgen
    Let's send him an F-15 in a MiG-25 box and see if he notices...
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