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Johnny_K

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Everything posted by Johnny_K

  1. This is a photo of the B-29 and my P-47. The P-47 was my first BMF project, and the B-29 was my fifth (most recent). Notice the size difference between the two planes.
  2. Thanks for the nice comment regarding the B-29. Yes, I plan to do a WIP on the B-58.
  3. The kit is dated 1985. At that time Monogram was located in Morton Grove Illinois which is a suburb of Chicago. The kit was designed and manufactured in Morton Grove.
  4. I just started on my next BMF project, an older 1/48 scale Monogram B-58. How times have changed, next to the copyright mark on the inside of the wing are the words, "Made in the USA". When is the last time that you saw those words on a model? Those huge flat wings will look awesome finished in BMF. What is really weird is the plastic is this goofy silver color with swirls in it. Very 1960's.
  5. I had to wear shades, I was blinded by the light!
  6. That sounds like a nice project. Please post pics when finished.
  7. This is a photo of the ready to assembly 1/48 B-29 next to a 1/48 P-51 Mustang. This gives you some idea as to how large the B-29 is.
  8. There are three tricks to getting a good BMF finish: 1. The Matt Aluminum foil is too shiny (IMHO). To reduce the shine I spray the entire sheet with Simple Green cleaning spray and then immediately wipe it off. I also use Improved Chrome on a few panels for visual interest. I do not spray Simple Green on this foil 2. When BMF is first applied it has a funny pebbly looking texture. To get rid of the texture it is necessary to BURNISH REALLY HARD with paper stumps. These are compressed paper sticks and they can be found in craft stores. The harder you rub the smoother the finish will
  9. Thanks for the kind words. I like my sunglasses too
  10. This project took 9 months and 8 sheets of Bare Metal Foil to complete. This is a large model with a 36" wingspan and weighs-in at over one pound. It is an older kit originally made by Monogram and it is loaded with engineering issues that make it a challange to build. It is the fifth model that I have finished using BMF. The cylindrical shape of the fuselage really highlights the grain and metal finish of the BMF. I used two colors of BMF, Matt Aluminum and Improved Chrome to add visual variety to the final finish. Following are photos of the finished model.
  11. WOW! Those are really great photos. The black and white film shows every dent, ding and scratch. How about all of those rivets, especially in the front of the fuselage.
  12. I used some inexpensive needle-nosed pliers and tweezers that I bought at HL.
  13. One day I visited Hobby Lobby and purchased a variety of wire. Some thin, some thicker. Some copper, some painted. I used some of the copper wire to make brake lines on the landing gear for a 1/48 B-29. I chose to not paint the wire so that it would visually stand out. First I went on-line to find photos of what the piping actually looked like. Then I bent the wire to the correct shape. Then I attached the wire to the landing gear. I attached the foil to the gear with strips of Bare Metal Foil.
  14. I am also building this model. I am ignoring that gap and moving on. I have a question for you. How are you dealing with the weights that you will need to install in the nose in order to keep the plane from sitting on its tail? A lot of weight will be required.
  15. John, I am somewhat confused. When do I use the Display Case forum as opposed to the Jet Modeling forum? John
  16. Well, it took a while, but I finally finished my Saber Jet. I tried to duplicate the following real 1:1 fully restored Saber Jet. I got this photo from Airfighters.com. I knew that paint would not be a substitute for the natural metal finish, so I finished my model in Bare Metal Foil. I painted the center section of the main wings with Testors Metalizer Aluminum straight from a rattle can. I used Photoshop to duplicate the plane in flight. You can follow along how I built this model at : http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/173828.aspx Foll
  17. Scott, I do the same thing to a blending stick as you do with a Q-tip for burnishing the foil at panel lines. After the foil is applied and burnished I rub the foil once with 0000 steel wool to give it some grain. I also use Tamiya "Smoke" to weather my BMF planes. Notice that the carrier film of the decals is not visible. This is a Revell kit and the decals are much thinner and more glossy than the Hasegawa F-104. I added the rivets to the P-47 with a rivet tool. It has small wheels with teeth on them. John
  18. I have been using Bare Metal Foil for well over a year. It is really difficult to apply BMF to shapes such as drop tanks. I paint the tanks with Testots' Aluminum Plate Metalizer paint. I buff the paint with a paper blending stick then brush the paint bwith steel wool to give it the appearance of 'grain' that is found on aluminum sheets. You can see the blending stick at the far right in the following photo. You can buy these at craft stores where the pastel pencils are located. IN FACT, I use these stick to smooth out Bare Metal Foil. It is the best tool for applying BMF. It is soft so it wil
  19. Wow!! That's an amazing collection of aircraft. I have a question for you. How to your level of interest up? I think that I would get bored.
  20. The Mig looks like a toy sitting next to the F-4
  21. Nothing beats the look of a F-4. They look really aggressive and pumped up. Was the Mig actually that small?
  22. Fixing a glued part requires patience with using a Xacto knife to gently pry and cut the glued parts apart. Unfortunately I could not pry the two fins away from the tank. They just broke off. So I used super glue to glue the fins to the tank. Worked just fine.
  23. Well I tried using Pledge on the "USAF" on the underside of the wing. It did not make the carrier film disappear. So I am going to leave things as they are. The more I start goofing around with the decals the better is the chance that I will screw things up.
  24. HI, Following is a photo after I fixed the fins on the wing tanks. I did not coat the BMF with any type of clear coat. I tried that on my first BMF plane and it ruined the look of the metal finish. It looked like the plane had a painted finish which was what I was trying to avoid. I am going to try painting the decals with Pledge. I tried that on a model car and it made the decal film disappear. If that works I'll post pictures. John.
  25. John, Thanks for the comments. The kit's instructions are not very clear regarding the main gear doors and the exhaust nozzle. You are correct. the main gear doors cannot close completely when the gear is down. I wish the instructions were more clear. The photo etched cockpit details from Eduard indicate that they are for a F-104C. However, as you noted, the harness is for the seat that fired upward, not downward (F-104C). And yes, I goofed on the fins for the wing tanks. I will try to correct that because it really bugs me. And again, the instructions were not clear regarding the color
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