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GGoheen

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About GGoheen

  • Rank
    "Damn but I hate it when that happens..........."
  • Birthday 05/19/1965

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    greg.goheen@yahoo.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Jose, CA - USA
  • Interests
    Buying too many models without any control whatsoever! Help me!!!!
  1. To answer your question (a bit more concisely and devoid of negativity) I'd say yes....it was not at all uncommon for the Luftwaffe to cannibalize parts from one aircraft to make another flight worthy. There are numerous photos of late war 109's (and 190's for that matter) which clearly do show a newer cowling in place that does not match the existing (often field painted) camouflage. Greg
  2. Alclad black primer can be problematic as you'll find in several of the posts here on ARC. Flat black, however, really wouldn't suffice either. I normally use a blend of gloss black and flat black enamels (MM) to essentially achieve a satin black. (don't ask me why I don't just use this already premixed) When dry, sand down with MicroMesh sand cloth, starting at 4000grit and working to the last which is 12000grit. The finish should have a very high sheen to it and that's usually my cue to apply Alclad II. Greg
  3. Thanks everyone, as I appreciate the replies thus far. Greg
  4. Okay, we've had zillions of posts asking what airbrushes everyone uses and why. So this time I thought I'd pose the question to all modelers as to what brand/size(s) of paint brushes you use for your fine detail work, i.e., painting instruments panel gauges, hydraulic hoses in the wheel bays and such. Greg
  5. Rather than fiddle around trying to make your own I'd think the best avenue would be contacting Tamiya directly to see if you can obtain a replacement from them. Never heard of AP Models but know the Squadron Malcolm Hood is a fantastic replacement.
  6. Glad to see the release of this kit by Tamiya....and really don't care about the pricing issue(s). Seems some things never change here with some one innocently commenting on the price and another giving a holier than thou explanation of why that is uncalled for. Let's try to respect one another's views without the childish interjections and try to remember it's a hobby....a passion...and leave the drivel outside this realm.
  7. GGoheen

    -109 prop question

    Not on the 109's. On Fw 190's....yes....109's....no way!
  8. I've actually switched to just brushing Future on in lieu of airbrushing, as it seems to coat more evenly and provide the smooth finish we are all looking for when applying decals. Just a thought that you might try. :) Greg
  9. Can't recall any Axis aircraft during WWII with tinted windows but perhaps I'm wrong and Lord knows there were plenty of anomalies too. :) Please post whatever aircraft you are questioning and I'm sure some here can offer their insight. Best, Greg
  10. Thanks for the heads up on this Raymond, as I tried to visit your site earlier to no avail. Hopefully the issue at hand can be resolved both timely and without a huge expense to Lucky Model. Best, Greg
  11. I understand the topic is still valid, if not invaluable, as I remember Greg's original posts (if only slightly at this point) showing where the panel lines on the various kits need to be replaced/omitted or amended. The few illustrations, good as they might appear, pale in comparison to the outstanding work Greg Wise originally posted here so therefore the question was raised. Let's hope the closing sentence was meant to be helpful rather than sarcastic too.
  12. Mr. Hobby (Aqueous) are by far more appealing than Mr. Color (Lacquer Based), although they've all but disappeared on the US market. Very durable and quite easily to work with, be it through your airbrush or simply brushed on. You can still get overseas from several distributors though and I'd recommend doing so, as they appear to be less toxic and can easily be thinned with 90% or greater isopropyl alcohol.
  13. Question ~ Why is this still pinned when the majority of Greg's pictures have been deleted? Seems kind of stupid.
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