Jump to content

saltydog

Members
  • Content Count

    75
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by saltydog

  1. yeah, but what these guys are failing to inform you..............resin and PE is HIGHLY ADDICTIVE!!! be careful, one use and you'll be hooked. OOB will never look the same friend!!LOL later.
  2. a word of caution with the staight alcohol and thinner, it will cause "orange peel" if not used carefully. the straight alcohol will act just as lacquer thinner to enamels, it will semi dry the paint before it gets to the subject if not careful. thin it enough to use at around 12psi or lower and you should be fine. smoke is wonderful stuff IMO. later.
  3. thanks for all the kind words guys!! hey, i'll be back later to explain the process on the weathering!! its kinda lengthy, so i'll need a little more time than what i have now........sorry. as Arnold would say........"I'LL BE BACK"! later. ps. there are a few more pics here if you care to see them: http://photobucket.com/albums/v47/saltydog322000/AM%20SBD-3/
  4. excellent lookin' build buddy!!!
  5. looks awesome stuki!! very nice job indeed. love the weathering!!
  6. hi guys, finished this Acc. Min. SBD-3 last night and thought i'd share it. she's OOB and the paint is mixed from tamiya acrylics. later.
  7. that is one beautiful model friend!! my hats off to ya. the 14 months looks like it paid off!! very nice job indeed. later.
  8. MAN!! that is one sweet SOB.........i'm SBD!!! soooo, where did ya get the decals? i have the same kit right about ready for paint, but i sure don't want to use the kit decals. i like the 3 color scheme there, but i have researched enough to find AM decals. later.
  9. i get mine from a store called "Walmart", over in the automotive section. but any well known Autoparts house should carry whatever grit you'd like. later.
  10. i too thin my future with a couple drops of windex and some distilled water. lower the pressure to around 15 or lower if you'd like. then i "mist" the future on from about 4 inches from the surface in light but "wet" coats. usually 2 or 3 coats, depending on what i'm doing. for a decal surface, 2 coats. for sealing over decals, 1 coat. later.
  11. SWEET!! :P always a challenge to get a solid gray subject to look interesting enough to hold your gaze for more than a couple of seconds. i love the weathering. later.
  12. i've owned a Paasche VL (a nice airbrush for T-shirt work, but didn't use it much for modelling), the Paasche H (decent), then i bought an Omni 5000 (excellent brush but didn't quite scratch the itch if you know what i mean), then a badger 200G(no thanks!!!), then an Iwata HP-C (very nice airbrush, but finally had to buy the .4mm needle nozzle combo to be 100% happy shooting model paints through it), then i purchased the Iwata HP-CS.....................i've NEVER looked back since. this airbrush atomizes paint like no other airbrush i've ever used. hands down, the best airbrush i've used for
  13. i have 2 iwata airbrushes and the HP-CS is the best airbrush i've ever used. later.
  14. when i get my basic paint scheme applied, i let this cure, then i spray a coat of Future floor polish for a glossy finish. this acts as a barrier so the underlying paint isn't damaged during the wash, and it helps the wash flow through the recesses nicely. i use artist's oils thinned with turpeniod or mineral spirits. just a small amount of paint goes a long way. i have 3 colors of oil, black, white, and dark umber. most of my washes are dark grey. later.
  15. careful with the iwata adapters, i purchased one to adapt my hp-c to a badger hose and she didn't last too long before she started leaking. it could've very well been operator erra, but i'd just bite the bullet and buy the iwata hose. later.
  16. i've always used alclald grey or gloss black base for all of my alclad applications with no problems. and yes, i have masked alclad using tamiya tape and walmart masking tape and it has never lifted. i've even mask it 30 minutes after spraying the metalizer, and it still didn't lift!! good luck. later.
  17. i prefer double action airbrushes as i prefer having control of my spray pattern and air supply all in one place. i have an omni 5000, iwata Hp-c, and iwata Hp-cs and all are simple to clean. the Hp-cs is my workhorse though, i use the hp-c occasionally when using acrylics, and the 5000 sits in drawer all alone. later.
  18. laskoki, AMAZING paint job and weathering friend!! you certainly have my respect as a top notch modeller.............as if my my opinion matters!! the Hellcat is looking hellasious!! later.
  19. i've purchased 4 airbrushes over the last 18 months and the buck stopped with the iwata eclipse HP-CS............I LOVE IT!!! it simply the best airbrush i've ever used. however, i was thinkin of buying the economical CR for acrylics and future coats. if i'm not mistaken, iwata actually manufactures the tamiya line of airbrushes. airbrushes are personal preference, but i too think i'd stay with the traditional design. good luck with your choice. later.
  20. Kaan, thats a sweet Harrier my friend!! did you mask the camo? if so, what method did you use? i love it. :D later.
  21. sometimes $30 bucks just ain't worth the wait friend. go for at the LHS..........my opinion of course. good luck on your decision. later.
  22. you can also buff future with a scrap of T-shirt or similar cloth to a really nice, shinny surface!! i airbrush mine, but i do thin it a tad and do about 3 wet coats. always turns out super smooth and super shinny. then i ruin it with decals, washes, and misc. weathering. i'm also building a glossy corsair, and she's gonna be factory fresh with no weathering what so ever. later.
×
×
  • Create New...