swimmer25k

Just picked up the new F-35 and T-38 sheets today. Thanks for making these available and providing a quality product.

Glued my fuselage halves together tonight. What's the ETA on this sheet? Chris

Ingo, I had to cut the walls as well. My biggest problem was mating the PE parts to the fuselage and exhaust trunk. The parts fit didn't make a whole lot of sense to me. I did an in progress build over at Zone Five. ARC won't let me copy the link here, so search for F-22. Hope this

This is the Gold Standard build for this kit. I'm currently building the same kit and for it to be pulled off the way it was is simply fantastic. Phenominal job. Chris

Like Paolo, I went with what the Hasegawa instructions suggested. Don't beat yourself up by trying to figure it out. What I like about the Hasegawa mix is that (like the real jet) it looks different under varied lighting conditions and the contrast always changes.

Janusz L, Don't listen to these guys. Your model is fantastic. Chris

Yes, I got the date wrong. I think I picked up a set in Kansas City in 2006 at some random vendor table. What secrets are out there as far as measurements are concerned? Why bother since you bootleg other company's parts anyway? You know who I am. If you have records of everything you sold or took pre-orders from I can be found in your database. I'm the guy who forced you to send only a money order because you can't be trusted.

"This is all the info I am willing to Release." I didn't know you were a spy? I'll probably get banned from this post, but I don't want anyone to get ripped off by sending you money. It took six months for you to refund what you owed me. If I remember correctly, you said that you spent my money to pay your income taxes and that your computer printer didn't have paper to print out the instructions. How many people do you still owe money to for your failed 1/32 B-58? How's that project coming along, btw. I sucked it up and bought some of your HSABs at a Nationals. I had to extend the bea

My bad. I remembered the paint being a bit lighter than what is depicted in your photo, but I guess I was mistaken. Sorry about that. Jorge

i feel Judging has to have all perspective open and balance the weight desicion. i Igree on what you just brought out and quote : "Now the question is, does 5 extra things done to a model outweigh one minor flaw, vs. a cleanly built model with no extras but no "WOW" factor" let me tell you the WOW factor was very high on the model A , not only on A , c, d, e , there where a lot of candy well build on that table. I've finished second, third, and even way out of the money at contests when I thought I should have placed higher. For example, I once had an F-16 that was second to a Mirage (with

Yep. That's it. I don't quite understand what you had to remove. Could you please explain a little more? Thanks, chris

I purchased this kit a while back and noticed that the aft fuselage to wing/engine pod joint is nowhere near close to fitting. Has anyone come across this problem. Other than that, this is a fantastic kit. I"ll try to take a picture if I didn't get my point across. Thanks, Chris

Does anyone make 1/200 747 slats and flaps? Thanks, Chris

Mark, There is nothing remarkable about building this kit. It is nicely detailed (except for the cockpit and exhaust) and the fit is fantastic. If you can get over the shape of the intake and cockpit inaccuracies (like me), it has been a bunch of fun to build. No complaints. Highly recommended.

Pretty much all of them! I laid down a base coat of Mr. Surfacer 1000 and then polished the entire model. I then hit it with the basic aluminum shade and then went back over the forward fuselage with aircraft aluminum. The wing-spar area is duraluminum. I've also used dark aluminum, regular aluminum, and even a misting of steel (right behind the cockpit). The engine area was mostly panels of pale burnt metal and gold titanium. I used the hot metal sepia, blue, violet, and red shades. I masked some of the areas off and gave a dusting of jet exhaust and some other shades to break things u

I started building this kit several weeks ago and have to say that it has been a pretty steady and smooth ride. Many have knocked this kit because of the too flat lower section of the intake and inaccurate kit. This may be true, but I don't care. I purchased the Cutting Edge sheet for George Laven's F-100C several years ago along with the CE C wing/tail mod for the Monogram kit. I tried (unsuccessfully) to rescribe the Monogram kit and attach the wings. Needless to say, it all went back in the box. I was pretty happy when Trumpeter announced this kit and got on it as soon as it was available

Braz gives you the Tu-160 exhaust shroud molded into the fuselage. The contents also include seperate shroudings to accomodate the original engines and seem to have a pretty good amount of space between each engine. Not knowing squat about the Tu-144, filling in the seperation area could be an easy fix. Sorry I couldn't be of any more help. chris

Braz just did a TU-144LL and it is fantastic. You will have to modify a regular TU-144 and fit it with engines from a TU-160. I don't know if Braz is selling the decal on its own.

Dan, I would like to build a Harrier like yours one day, but I have a few questions to ask you. B) First of all, isn't there supposed to be a seam that runs across the fuselage at the forward section of the wing? I saw a show on Discovery that had the whole wing taken off in order to service the engine and I remember there being a panel break there. I also heard the the scoops next to the canopy prohibit the canopy from sliding back. Did you move yours outboard so you could do this? Also, I've seen several variations of the canopy det cord. I'm pretty sure you got it right, but how we

Jennings, Thanks for the reply. I broke down and ordered one the other day. I had wanted to get the USA-Russian flying lab, however, Hannants was already sold out of it. So, I ended up getting the kit with the early Aeroflot markings. Is there any hope of finding the markings I want (from Braz or whomever supplied the decals), or should I just stick with what I have? The drawings on the Braz website were very nice, but so is the box-art on FM kits. The sprue shots make it look like a pretty simple kit. Chris

I've had this kit in my Hannants shopping cart for a couple of days and have been afraid to pull the trigger. Any thoughts on this kit? Is there anywhere out there that can beat the Hannants $175 price tag? Thanks, Chris

Jman, I recently built the B-52 and had similar issues with the bomb bay doors. I filled the gaps with sheet styrene as much as I could and lathered in Proweld. When the glue was dry-ish, I shaved off the excess with a razor blade. I sanded it as best I could and then layered on several generous coats of Mr. Sufacer 500. When dry, sanded smooth. The Surfacer is much easier to re-scribe than Miliput or other putties. I would try Miliput around the clear parts. Before it sets up, go over the seam with a wet q-tip to get it smooth. No sanding necessary if done right. Keep it up. Chris

Ben, That cockpit looks great. Did you use Eduard color etch panels and then add your own buttons and switches to give it depth? What is your overall scheme going to be? Keep up the good work. Chris

Thanks. It is the 1/72 Revell kit with the Cutting Edge conversion. Chris

It is the LS kit (-5 and -5J combo) I got off of Ebay for $10 two weeks ago. Thanks for the comments. Chris