swimmer25k

I added seatbelts for a P-51, wiring, and two LEDs. Some of the pics are WIP.

Orange Blossom Hobbies in Miami was my first stop. In college I frequented George's Hobby House in Lawrence, KS (also Waldo Hobbies in Missouri). In grad school I used to love going to the Silver Springs, MD Squadron shop. Work took me to Dallas where Phil's ruled the world (MAL was a nice place as well). All are dead and buried now.

Ditto for me.

Thanks. It’s Hasegawa Trytool hologram film (sticker) on clear styrene. They are several types available.

The extra stick in the front cockpit is removable. I’m adding it once the seat is glued into the tub. It’ll get knocked off if I put it in now.

I stole parts from the Hasegawa Polish F-16D kit and bashed it with the Tamiya C. Cockpit is Aires Block 40. Markings will be from Twobobs once they’re released.

The HARV is right up your alley.

Thanks for the compliments. You’re (sort of) correct on the back quad hole. I’m building the complete stack that’ll be displayed on its side. The LM will be coming out of the SLA and behind the CSM. I’ll start on the first stage after I knock out a Tamiya F-16 conversion to the X-62 VISTA. Chris

I added the New Ware detail set. For the Mylar/Kapton areas i gilded different gold and chrome leaf to the plastic. Some of the gold areas were sprayed with clear oranges or yellows.

Flat nose pliers for PE PE bending tool Punch and die set Mini razor saw mitre box for razor saw Dspaie circle cutter

Here’s a closer photo showing the petal configuration. It’s different than the regular PW.

Your exhausts are inaccurate. Your model has interlocking petals like on a standard PW exhaust (bottom picture). The Active exhaust is completely different. Each petal tucks underneath one adjacent petal and gets the same treatment from its other neighbor. This allows the nozzle to swivel on three axes. I’ve attached two photos below. It’s abundantly clear that this is the case. You’ve advised on Facebook that this is an illusion. I respectfully disagree. Please show us what your using to come to your conclusion.

How far apart are the GWH and the Hasegawa kits in dimensions? In other words, can your kit be made to fit the GWH kit?

Pm me.

I’ve got the top sheet available if you’re still looking. Chris

Any interest in making some $$$ by selling these parts to your peers? Chris

I threw some Caracal markings for a NWEF TA-7C on my Skyshark. I dig it. Chris

GWH would be my choice.

Did someone say SR-71 LASRE?

I think it’s less than 18”, but not around to measure it.

I use a Waller iron. This was pretty easy to solder. Any goo that was piled up was easily spread around with some heat.

Here are two WIP of my Metallic Details Antares rocket and (sort of) LUT. The brass is all soldered. It’s very thick and it took more effort than usual to bed; including scoring the opposite side of the bend. The LUT is secured to the base with soldered brass rods (@ 1/8”) and another rod going up into the rocket from below. The “arms” hugging the rocket were soldered in place once the rocket was fixed into place. I airbrushed those areas afterwards. Next up is to add a wash to bring out the detail and decals. There are four cooling ducts coming out of the ba

Why is the boarding ladder partially deployed?

Deleted. Posted that sheet #2 is still available. Missed your title.

I made some entries on the 3/4, 3/8, and 3/18 ARC Facebook page with some WIP pictures. 3/1, 3/4, 3/6 3/7, and 3/17 in “Space Modeling”