swimmer25k

It took a third behind the LEM and Ben Guenther’s “Ingenuity”. The kit gives copper wire for the axles, and antennas (coming out if the sides). I used telescoping and soldered brass tubing. I also added .006” solder for the wiring. I had a build thread on one of the Facebook space modeling and ARC pages. It’s pretty much OOB.

Fun little kit even with 37 parts to solder for each wheel. Chris

The CWM kit is awesome. I used fine lead wire instead of the rubber thread. I 50/50 scratchbuilt my CRL. Bone Fragments has a more detailed and accurate version hitting the market soon. Chris PS No need to mention my Navy JDAMS on a USAF jet. I know. I know.

A friend printed it out and test for the part to a junked F-15 that was laying around somewhere.

First test print. Lots of refining to go.

I’ve sold finished kits before and usually charge 3-4 times the cost of the parts. There’s no way you’ll ever get what your time is worth.

Thanks Corey. I’m glad I drove it all the way from Virginia. I got it off of eBay from the maker. Combat Conversions. chris

Looking forward to this one. I’ve got the Combat Conversions kit en route.

Believe it or not; it’s what I do professionally.

Air Force Armament Museum? The pickets from the railing and black trim below suggests that this may be it.

Inside. Here's a list of survivors. Possibly one of them? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_surviving_Republic_F-105_Thunderchiefs

Thank you. I drove that sucker 600 miles from Virginia and can't believe it made the round-trip without a scratch. Chris

Those are awesome. Thanks for the lead.

I’m working on the 1/35 Red Iron Lunokhod. Currently on the wheels. 3 down and 5 to go. I’d like to mount it on a moon-scape base. I’ve got several of the AK Interactive terrains available with different textures to choose from. Have any of you done a base like this? I have a 1/48 Dragon Apollo base that I may RTV and resin as a starting point.

You’ll still need flux.

I use a Weller with a fine tip. I will get some solder on the tip after tinning and place it over a fluxed joint. Stainless is more difficult to solder than brass, so it needs more heat.

I finally broke down and bought the Red Iron Lunokhod kit the other day. Close-up reference material seems to be a little hard to come by. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks, Chris

A while back I bought the Blackdog 1/48 A-10A kit that opens up all the panels for the Italeri -A kit. There are some nice -C decals available. Phase Hangar is doing a -C conversion for the Hobby Boss -A kit. If using the Phase Hangar conversion, can the Italeri kit be transferred to a A-10C? chris

The Hasegawa weapons bay doors are a great addition as well as a nice ejection seat. I added some resin nozzles to mine, but they weren’t necessary. The etched doors are a huge improvement over the kit parts. I followed the Hasegawa instructions for the paint scheme and I think it’s the best solution out there for paint scheme.

PM me. I’ve got an extra. Maybe two. chris

There’s a nice instrument panel set available for the Kittyhawk Su-34 and was wondering how the Hobby Boss panel dimensions compare to one another. Thanks. chris

I don’t have too many in progress pictures. I soldered most of the parts together. Much better and cleaner than using super glue.

https://imgur.com/gallery/DgHvjCg It builds into a nice kit. chris

Don’t quit! Chris

Which hosting site are you all using now? Chris