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Trainman 2001

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About Trainman 2001

  • Rank
    Canopy Polisher
  • Birthday 07/30/1945

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Louisville, KY
  • Interests
    Plastic kits (complex, big scale, super-detailed, air-sea-land), model railroading (O'scale, 3-rail, scratch-building), Guitar, Science, Astronomy

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  1. Thank you! As an epilog... Here's what my work space looks like when I'm done. This phenomenon only occurs every so often when work is done. Sadly, it doesn't last very long. And here's my high-tech method of dealing with the sharps that are created constantly. I buy my #11s in the 100 piece packs and change then very often, especially when using it to cut decals, masking, bare metal foil, etc. I toss them all in a yogurt container and when full, tape the darn thing shut and toss it in the trash. I don't handle them any more than I have to. Being an AFid person and on a b
  2. Thank you C2J. I have very little patience, but lots of perseverance. It gets me through the tough spots. While I may wish to, I never through anything across the room when frustrated. I practice test pilot problem solving,, "try A, B, C, D, E, etc, until you either auger in or start flying again."
  3. Big day! Had a gall bladder imaging session this morning to see if it's working right and finished the Seahawk this afternoon. Won't know about the gall bladder for a couple of days, but you'll learn about the finished Seahawk tonight. Before putting the rotor on I had to get the tail boom on. I chose to use epoxy putty since there wasn't much gluing surface for conventional adhesive AND the surfaces themselves were not very secure. I put a wad of putty on the back of the fuze side of the ResKit hinge component and pushed the parts together. Had to hold it for a while by hand and t
  4. I finished the rotor head, did the repaint, connected the deice lines, and refinished the blades including painting the pop-out nitrogen leak indicator. I also did the anti-collision belly light and finish painted the rear landing gear. I fixed all the blade lock indicators putting on fresh little slivers of PE fret to complete them. They do need some touch up paint. And I notice that I didn't trim the phos-bronze rotating pins. There may be a few more areas needing attention such as cleaning up the accent around the blade bolts. While mounting the rotor and attempting to posi
  5. First of all I'm getting this error when trying to enter yesterday's post in the FSM Forum. And I can't seem to enter a new post in the troubleshooting forum. Any ideas? Secondly, I did (FINALLY) get the four blades attached to the hub. My new parts worked although they still required a styrene spacer and then do some creative carving of both the claw and the rotation motor head on the hub to get the new parts to sit correctly on the hub. Again, the pinning idea was the reason I could do this at all. The hub's taken quite a beating and will need some TLC to bring
  6. The problem with having your thread read by people who ACTUALLY know about the model you're building is sometimes they tell you things you're doing wrong and that you must fix. This happened with yesterday's post. I was told by words and pictures that I installed the blades in backwards. Ugh! They were awful to get in the first time. However; there is a silver lining... sort of. By spending the time to pin the blades to the knuckles and not gluing them, I was able to pull the pins and remove the blades without breaking them. While trying to get the blades back on I re-torqued
  7. Spent a lot of time today fussing with getting the blades mounted and didn't finish. I did get the blade racks installed. i found that there was a pin on one end of the bottom member that could go into the holes in the fuselage if there were holes there. There were keyslot-shaped engravings at the correct locations on the strbrd-side. I measured the pin and drilled out those areas. Then I realized that I had put the mounting pins on the wrong end of this member and had all the paint schemes backwards. I had to make new pin on the rear set using Evergreen round styrene of a very sim
  8. It was one of those days where I spent 30% of my time doing new stuff and 70% of my time fixing crap that I broke off. For the new stuff, I built the blade support racks and their associated blade clamps. The kit parts have a very narrow, scale-ish, connection between the forward half of the two-part assemblies and the main part. There are two sets that vary in size. I was seiriously concerned that this narrow part wasn't going to make it especially after it got softened by the solvent cement in its proximity. I fixed this by drilling and applying a piece of 0.014 guita
  9. Had an ice/sleet/rain/snow storm today and into tomorrow. Good day to spend some time in the basement building cool things. It was pointed out to me that I mounted the engine hatch at the wrong angle, but couldn't get the work platfom part flat. Well... after carefully looking at a guy kneeling on the hatch and working on the engine, I realized that I put the wear strips on the wrong wing of the hatch. The strips go to the hinge side, not the outside. With that understanding, I removed the strips, fixed the paint, made new strips, applied them and redid the weathering. I also had t
  10. My Seahawk pilot has given me more suggestions including how each blade (main and tail) are color coded and used in managing the main rotor folding process. The blade clamps are also color coded to their respective blades. The colors are also on the main rotor hub. I'm going to color some tiny strips of Tamiya tap and add this micro-details. The scheme is Forward starboard blade is Blue, Aft Starboard blade is Red, Forward Port Blade is Yellow and Aft Port Blade is black. I finished all the weathering I'm going to do. I dirtied the bottom up and added dirt on the walking arees on t
  11. One of my readers in one of the other forums in which I post this thread is an actual Seahawk pilot and has been feeding me real information about details on the machine that are not easy to find. And I incorporate everything he says. Yesterday he showed me the colors of the sonobuoy dispenser, the tail of the MAD and the brake lines. I put in the brake lines. I used magnet wire and diameters of Albion tubing to make a faux fitting. I made a strap clamp out of wine bottle foil. This stuff works great, but you first must remove any printing or coating on it with acetone. The coating
  12. Thank you! Input from readers caused me more work. It was one of those two-steps back and one forward. I tried to save the damaged door window, but it was a mess. The other two door windows in the kit were for other version of the Sikorsky bird inlcuding the Blackhawk and their cockpit door windows varied slightly in configuration. I woke up thinking about this and decided to go for it. The model's coming out too good to let that crappy window detract from it. I filed and sanded the replacement and got it to fit reasonably well. I installed it without m
  13. Took your advice and built the fuel tank. It will go on one rack and the torpedo on the other. Today was a milestone day with the panel accenting, flat coat and unveiling of the glazing. I got a got set of prints, but they're too thin. I got the profile dead on, but the depth needed some shimming. Here's the comparison to the original After fitting it on the hub and blade I found that it was about 0.040" too thin and used some styrene CA'd in place to do the job. It all fit nicely. It all fit nicely until, both eyes fractured when I put a little bi
  14. Thanks Gino! I started today with the best of intentions to finish up more of the model and get the blades mounted on the hub. I decided to reinforce the flimsy pins that hold the plastic blade knuckle to the hub swivel by drilling and pinning with 0.032" phos-bronze. After drilling I attempted to hold the two parts of the blade knuckle with a clamping tweezers. Before I could get the glue near the joint the small mating part snapped out the tweezers with the wire attached. The wire hit the floor and the part.... well... the part went into the atlernate universe. I swept the entire
  15. Almost everything that can be painted is. The decaling began in earnest and is basically finished. The aircraft didn't have as many stencils as other models I've built. I use MicroSet first, put down the decal and the MicroSol. I may add more MircroSol if more shriveling is needed. I started on the starboard side, did the same side of the tail boom, did the port side and then port side boom. I've complained about the instructions, but the decals are excellent. They're thin, have nice narrow margins, didn't tear, laid down well with solvent, have good color registration and opacity.
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