Robert S

what is the story with the external fuel tanks? Thanks

I prefer using my normal filler (tamiya) but then once it is finished up I use some Mr. Surfacer 500 over it or if the seam is not bad just the Mr Surfacer 500 and build it up in layers as required

can you tell me which issue of International APR. Thanks

there is also this 1/72nd scale. More expesive than the SSM one but it is very nice (I own one). I think both are a great choice. http://www.geocities.com/adumas02/viper.html

do the F-16I have regular block 52 pits? I thought they were more advanced?

at least they have bugs where they belong :) Sad to see F-14's there. Especially in those colors

E-2C Hawkeye New Tool Tornado SAAB 35 (PLEASE!!!) New Tool A-10

take a look on ebay. there is a guy who has cast some very nice ones (also does some ECM pods). He will also sell off Ebay to you as well. A nice guy and good stufs (he sells them in pairs BTW) Also the GE110 will be open on the ground. They open after the hydralic pressue bleads off and gravity wins HTH Robert

I think the title says it all. Ant thoughts and help would be appreciated. I am looking for both WWII & Jet A/C (50s to now) TIA Robert

Does anyone other than Waldron's make a punch set and if so where I can get one. Also does anyone know where I could get a Waldron's swt if there are no others available TIA Robert

everyone is saying don't do it but here is my question. What is the plastice were polished first to give it a good even finnish, then the stripes painted and the whole model sealed with future before weathering and decaling? It would at least mean the white would not have to be painted and would not the future protect the plastic from yellowing? Robert

for the "nuclear weapons" that were mention the product is called Solvaset. If this doesn't do it for your decals it will require a real nuke Robert :blink:

basicly to help the decale settle on the model. Do you need it to place it there? No. But to help the decal setlle into the panel lines (or around them on a raised line kit) rivits and around complex curves. There is no way around it for at least for me. It just helps to give a more painted look to your markings. My 2 cents Robert :blink:

I also recomend getting a unit digital speed control. I have owned several and this one seems to hold the speed best. Also a tool that I have found useful is a small round saw blade. They come in very fine teeth and a steady hand can make short work of any cutting that you need to do HTH Robert

the colors are called out in Gunze paint #s and can be cross ref'd. Decals are called out in english numbers so it should not be that hard. Note all Hasegawa kits are this way (along with Tamiya). Fairly easy to follow. The photo etch mat be a little harder to follow. I agree with the statment to check www.starshipmodeler.com. The guys (and gals) over ther are as good as theh ARC's and know there stuff. HTH Robert :blink:

I tend to use either Testors Interior Black or Pollys Scale Black (whichever is closer on the bench at the time) They are both pretty much a very dark grey and look better (to me anyway) then staight flat black HTH Robert :wacko:

Not to likly since the Navy 16s were in aggressor paint schemes. But it would be funny

Think of the pin vise as a baby power drill with the power provided by you. The pin vise will normally take drill bits from as small as a #80 up to a 1/16" drill bit. Flashed over holes- Many kits that provide multi options or optional wing pilons, different antennas wct will "flash over" the mounting holes and leave it up to the modeler to open them. Basicly they only have a small thickness of plastic over the hole as opposed to the thickness of the rest of the model Missles- Can be used to drill out rocket moters mostly to give a more realistic apperance. Also is useful if you want to

It is not junk and will do the job however if you want to use it as a drill as well as a scriber it will be a little more difficult to use. I would take a look at something else. Go to the following page: http://www.micromark.com and type in 21105 in the product # search. You should ge a swivel head pin vise Good luck Robert

good thing that the information was not a snake. Thank everyone!

Thanks for the input. Guess I do learn something new everyday. Looks like the F-84 will be getting a bath before I go to work. Thanks for saving me what little sanity I have left. Robert Wow! I sprayed the Windex expecting to have to let it sit. NOPE model is stripped in 5min flat!! Thanks again BTW is Tamiya primer okay to use? TIA

Hi I am working on my first NMF (or BMF if you prefer) and I am using Alacad II paint. I decided to use a Gloss Black acrylic coat as a primer. I spreyed this morning and had no seam lines yet after 14hours however some of the black areas are noas shiney as the rest. I was thinking of polishing the paint out so that it was a uniform finnsh and gloss and was looking for sugestions on how to do it. any ideas would be helpful. Thanks in advance Robert

check out this artical in the tools 'n' tips section. It may give you an idea or two http://aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1/001...hts_/tnt041.htm good luck Robert

Hi I have to place decals on the Alcad II painted surface. Will the Testors Metelizer Sealer work to protect them with out damaging the Alcad? TIA Robert