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Everything posted by MikeC

  1. I always use acrylics. It's Tamiya XF-16 Aluminium, mixed with a dash of white. I've now got the fuselage assembled and the wings and tail on, they're drying out as I type.
  2. Hannants are advertising a decal sheet by HR Models under "Future Releases", it looks as though you'll be able to combine it with the kit decals to make S-12 if you wish, and have enough left over to do anoher Avia with Slovak Axis crosses. http://www.hannants.co.uk/search/?FULL=HRDL4804 HTH,
  3. Shame they never completed the "Vickers geodetic" series - a Warwick and a Windsor would have been great. I know Contrail or someone did a Warwick, but don't ever recall the Windsor. Unlikely you may say, as it only existed as a prototype, but stranger things have been kitted ...
  4. Progress to date: preliminary assembly done, interior sprayed, ready for dry-brushing and assembly. General views: Fuselage Interiors, with etched cocking handles added to the guns: Detail bits - fuselage frames, radiator matrix, cockpit floor; seat harness yet to be added: Rudder pedals are assymetrically set deliberately, the rudder will be suitably deflected. Only three bits of etch lost to the carpet monster so far, that's pretty good for me. Next time I'll do the cocking handles from scrap plastic, it's easier. Apologies for the photography, I know I'm no David Bailey!
  5. Hi, I don't normally make things with more than one mainplane, but being a bit of a Czech AF enthusiast I had to have one of these. Now I've bought it I'll have to have more, but that's for the future. I started the one I have (the first release, open-cockpit III serie) last night, and it's a little beauty. There's a whole raft of etched brass if you like that sort of thing, including the rigging turnbuckles and pre-painted instrument panel and seat harness. There are many manufacturers could use this kit as a lesson in how to represent fabric - no "sacking weave" or sagging between ribs
  6. There's an F-6C on Aeromaster 48-288, but it's not currently available. http://www.eaglestrikeproductions.com/cgi-...48288&prfx=
  7. " ...Or of course there's good old fashioned Tamiya yellow tape." Never occurred to me to do it any other way. I tend to spray the white areas roughly, then mask them. Then mask the white areas, spray the black, mask the lot and carry on with the rest of the scheme. Alternatively, sparay and mask the white; do the rest of the scheme, then re-mask and paint the black. Needs effort, but it's worth it, and you can introduce the odd irregularity if you so desire. In my experience, decals never work well for large areas. Edit: just re-read it, I think that's too late for you, as you've alrea
  8. MikeC

    Arii kit questions

    Beware the Spitfire VIII: nice fueslage, nice wing but no dihedral and no "gull" wing root. Not a big issue if you feel able to fix it, or feel like x-kitting a Hasegawa IX wing.
  9. Wot, no camera ports? Maybe I'll stick with the original plan of an ICM kit and a bit of good old scratchbuilding. Thanks for the info Edgar.
  10. MikeC

    Red-Nosed Mustangs

    I've found this site a very useful resource for 8th AF FGs. http://www.littlefriends.co.uk/ HTH,
  11. MikeC

    Arii kit questions

    Chief among these is a fin/rudder that's too short. For P-51s, my favourites are Tamiya, Monogram, Hasegawa for buildability (I like painting better than adding lots of fiddly details). However, I have also built the P-40E, and imo that is not bad. At least, when built up it certainly looks the part. HTH,
  12. Thank you for suggesting Games Workshop "Mithril Silver" for natural metal. I've just sprayed a Czech MiG-19. I thinned it with distilled water and a few drops of retarder and sprayed it with a Badger Anthem. It didn't clog, it sprayed well and it looks GREAT! As a bonus, there's a GW shop, and another stockist that sells their paints, within 10 miles of me. So thank you Sir for the suggestion. Cheers, Michael
  13. It polishes Tamiya Silver or Aluminium a treat; just a few panels here and there makes all the difference in a natural metal scheme. Yes, it does need precautions - use SPARingly, with a capital "spare"!
  14. IMO, Eduard. Excepting that only the Q boxings have underwing gunpods, afaik all the boxings have all the necessary bits to build any variant. You may have seen my recent post about a Soviet Q that I built from a P-400 boxing a few years ago: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index....p;#entry1051452 Jay's summing up above is spot-on for the Eduard kit, as I haven't got a Hasegawa one I can't comment on that. Eduard's is a bit more work, but makes a nice model. I'm quite getting into Cobras, the different variants are fascinating. The "Dual Combo" boxing is RAF Airacobra-based, it has
  15. Hello again, Yes, the "Dual Combo" has two lots of etched brass, some of it pre-painted. It's on the Eduard website http://www.eduard.cz/ - if, as I suspect, this takes you to the homepage, go to the tabs at the top and click "products", then "Aircraft Limited Edition" under "Plastic Kit ..." on the right. HTH,
  16. Hi OBD, Thanks. I'm 99% certain that the "Dual Combo" includes the photo-etch, I'll have a look in the box this evening. There's a very nice decal sheet with RAF and some very interesting Soviet colour schemes. Cheers,
  17. I built this Soviet P-39Q from the Eduard P-400 a few years ago for our branch's display theme at Scale Modelworld (UK Nats). I didn't know as much about P-39s then as I do now, so although the Eduard P-400 kit includes everything (except gunpods which the Soviets did not tend to use) that you need for a Q, I used the wrong prop. This is what it looked like, at the end of this lineup. Anyway, fast forward to now, and I recently dug it out to display at a show. As it had kindled an interest in P-39s I'd built another Eduard Q, bought a book, Googled "P-39", bought another Eduard kit (the
  18. I tried to build an MF with the Academy kit and CMK resin set. Unfortunately, it is one of the very few models that I have failed to finish, it went into the bin at Mach 2 to the sound of a naughty word. Not just lots of fiddly etched brass (I hate it!), but badly-fitting resin (although perhaps that was my fault to some extent). Anyway, it reminded me why I rarely use resin replacement cockpits or etched brass. Fortunately, it hit the bin before decalling, so I still have the CMK decals, but I'll wait for the Eduard offering before using them (I want to do the NATO 50th Anniversay Czech
  19. WWI fans and all those who enjoy preserved aircraft, fill your boots: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/main.jhtml...20/nplane20.xml
  20. It was Formaplane, and yes, afaik it's long out of production. I remember it as being the thinner, slightly translucent plastic, and this resulted in very thin mouldings in some areas, but it was one of the more pleasant vacforms to build, to the extent that I opened the weapons bay, scratched an interior, and converted it to the MR2P with Sidewinders, which was the latest variant at the time. Good grief, that places it as just after the Falklands War, 25 years ago!! B)
  21. MikeC

    Stuka Undercarriage

    Gents, Thanks to all for the info, that's useful. I have a selection of Stukas planned, one of which is an "R", so I'll keep an eye out for that Heller boxing of the Airfix 1:48th kit. Lothar, I've just looked on the Cutting Edge site, can't find the set you mention, but thanks anyway. Cheers, M
  22. I've seen pictures of Ju 87s with the spats removed. I know why: what I don't know is whether anyone does a suitable conversion package. Can anyone enlighten me? Incidentally, I do have the modelling skills to make something suitable from my spares box, I'm just lazy these days! TIA,
  23. Sage wisdom suggests checking a photo of the subject if you have one. I believe that like many questions of this sort, it varied according to a whole host of factors such as: Manufacturer, whether the paint scheme was done on production by the contractor, at a central depot, air station, in the filed or wherever; how the painter interpreted the particular instructions he had, whether masking material was available and/or was used, etc etc etc. My suggestion if in doubt - soft-ish edge, not too much overspray, but not completely hard. Sorry I can't give a definitive answer, if only modelling
  24. Thanks Gents, that's useful. Now all that remains is to decide between the Romanian scheme or a Luftwaffe one, and if so which Luftwaffe scheme ... Thanks again,
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