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Everything posted by MikeC

  1. Does anyone have a definitive answer as to whether any Romanian Hs 129s carried the MK 101 or 103 gun? TIA,
  2. Went in to my local shop in Bristol for the usual "Two bottles of Tamiya paint" and a chinwag with Andy, came out with those, plus one of the new Tamiya 1:48 vehicles - a French Citroen 11CV. I didn't even know these little gems existed. Check out the link: http://www.hannants.co.uk/search/index.php...%5B%5D=code+asc Some nice tanks which you never know, may even tempt me into armour , but the real gems are the other vehicles: staff cars, a Kettenkrad with a Luftwaffe ground power unit, etc - ideal for use with a suitable aircraft in a diorama or vignette. No Jeep yet unless I missed it,
  3. Have I missed it, or has nobody mentioned the Trumpeter MiG 19 Farmers? Two different kits, I'm just making a start on the Farmer E (MiG 19PM) http://www.hannants.co.uk/search/index.php...%5B%5D=code+asc
  4. Nice Voodoo!!! 81st TFW Bentwaters I believe? How did you do it (I assume it's the Monogram kit converted)?
  5. The airbrush itself seems to be a factor: Xtracrylix clog severely when I use my Badger Anthem, but work perfectly (thinned with their own-brand thinner) through my Iwata.
  6. Agree with the above. I have a Sprint Jet; a faint hum and a hiss from the regulator is all it produces sound-wise, and it can barely be heard outside my modelling room.
  7. I've not done too many in-flight models lately, but imo nothing looks very realistic: the most realistic-looking effect is to simply remove the prop blades, fill any gaps in the spinner or hub, and remove anything that doesn't leave the spinner/hub perfectly circular in cross-section. HTH,
  8. I appear to have misinterpreted an earlier post by Larry S, aka Miccara. After an exchange of PMs, I'm happy to apologise to Larry for a hasty OTT response.
  9. So what it comes down to is personal preference, pure and simple. I recognise, and deal with, the problems that acrylics have (clogging tips, er???) and still prefer that to enamels (variable quality of Humbrol, smell and fumes when spraying, 3 hours stirring for 5 minutes painting ;) and difficulty in pouring from tinlets. As for having to mix Tamiya, as I'm a firm believer that colour varies with light, age of aircraft, degree of weathering, climate in theatre, etc etc, then I'm sorry, but near enough is for me good enough, and if I want exact I'll buy Xtracrylix. As Desmojen says above
  10. IMO most of what he said, but substitute Tamiya Acrylics for Humbrol enamels. I went over to acrylic almost 10 years ago, and have never looked back. In my experience it's best to use their own thinner (I've tried water, isopropyl alcohol, screen-wash fluid, etc) and add a drop or three of a retarder - Cryla "Acrylic Flow Enhancer" or similar, available from your art shop. Xtracrylix are also well worth checking out - a number of traders stock them (including Hannants, who own the brand) and they can be found at model shows, but they're not generally available in your average High St hobby
  11. Nice one Jamie. Look forward to seeing it in the plastic.
  12. Thanks guys. First 109 I've built for ages, the last one was either the Airfix G-6 or Frog F/G-2 in 1:72 - shows you how long ago that was! Thanks for posting Moeggo.
  13. Perhaps a bit overengineered for airbrushing use?
  14. Apologies for the confusion. I was talking 1:48, and "Revell" in this instance refers to the Revell/Monogram kit, alas only available here second-hand at the moment. (Why didn't I get one when it was available? I hadn't had the moment of inspiration that causes me to want to build one, isn't that always the way? )
  15. Thanks chaps, all seems do-able, as the only real sticking point would be the caopy, and Falcon do one of those. Cheers,
  16. That's great, many thanks for the info and pointers.
  17. My 109 is nearly there - put the decals on during the last couple of days, so it now awaits weathering, matt coat and finishing. My first 109 in many many years, so when you see it please be kind!
  18. Sorry if this has been asked before, but how easy is it to build a Ju 88A-1 from the Revell (or indeed the Dragon) A-4? Is it simply a matter of changing the canopy? I also note that Falcon Clear-Vax 35 includes a canopy for a "Ju 88A-1/A-5" - I assume this means that the A-5 and A-1 canopies were identical. I'll be pursuing other lines of enquiry on this, but any information would be helpful and appreciated. TIA
  19. A quick search on Hannants brings up this: http://www.hannants.co.uk/search/index.php...%5B%5D=code+asc Eduard themselves did an alternative sheet under the name Aviprint (http://www.hannants.co.uk/search/?FULL=AV48001). HTH,
  20. Ian, If it's 1:72 I feel for you, I've built that kit! As for your question, no idea, but I suspect it would fit in with the rest of the colour scheme. So if it's a gloss scheme (satin on a model, I'd suggest) then spinners are also satin. HTH,
  21. MikeC


    If you've got enough surplus, why mot mould it into scale sandbags or similar for a display base or diorama.
  22. Thomas, They don't seem to have a brand name. I can't remember who I bought them from - I think it was "Little Cars". They're listed on the website under "Tools and Accessories", ref "DM29", if these are the same things I bought. (http://www.little-cars.co.uk/pricelst.htm) To describe them: you get about 5 supeglue tips and a length of polycarbonate (?) micro-diameter tube. Insert tube in nozzle, cut to length, and leave on superglue bottle. The tiny bit of superglue that dries on the end is easily removed, then simply let capilliary action do the work and apply superglue exactly where
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