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MikeC

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Posts posted by MikeC

  1. I've not done too many in-flight models lately, but imo nothing looks very realistic: the most realistic-looking effect is to simply remove the prop blades, fill any gaps in the spinner or hub, and remove anything that doesn't leave the spinner/hub perfectly circular in cross-section.

    HTH,

  2. So what it comes down to is personal preference, pure and simple. I recognise, and deal with, the problems that acrylics have (clogging tips, er???) and still prefer that to enamels (variable quality of Humbrol, smell and fumes when spraying, 3 hours stirring for 5 minutes painting ;) and difficulty in pouring from tinlets.

    As for having to mix Tamiya, as I'm a firm believer that colour varies with light, age of aircraft, degree of weathering, climate in theatre, etc etc, then I'm sorry, but near enough is for me good enough, and if I want exact I'll buy Xtracrylix.

    As Desmojen says above, why not try both? Word of caution - allow one type of paint to dry thoroughly, like at least 24 hrs, before applying the other over it.

  3. IMO most of what he said, but substitute Tamiya Acrylics for Humbrol enamels. I went over to acrylic almost 10 years ago, and have never looked back.

    In my experience it's best to use their own thinner (I've tried water, isopropyl alcohol, screen-wash fluid, etc) and add a drop or three of a retarder - Cryla "Acrylic Flow Enhancer" or similar, available from your art shop.

    Xtracrylix are also well worth checking out - a number of traders stock them (including Hannants, who own the brand) and they can be found at model shows, but they're not generally available in your average High St hobby shop. I'm not sure how they'd perform through a Badger 200 (good choice btw), they go better through my Iwata than my B155, where they tend to clog the tip. "Readily available" is as far away as a click on Hannants site, but you do have to buy a kit as well, as they won't ship them otherwise. Again, use own their own thinner.

    Apart from that I've tried Lifecolour, Aeromaster (no longer available), and Polly Scale (similar to Areomaster) with variable results. My base/majority stock of paint is still Tamiya.

    As for Citadel, they're primarily for Scifi/fantasy gamers, but don't dismiss them for that - their "Blazing Orange" (iirc) seems to be a perfect match for 1960s/70s RAF trainer dayglo.

    HTH

  4. Apologies for the confusion. I was talking 1:48, and "Revell" in this instance refers to the Revell/Monogram kit, alas only available here second-hand at the moment. (Why didn't I get one when it was available? I hadn't had the moment of inspiration that causes me to want to build one, isn't that always the way? :cheers: )

  5. Sorry if this has been asked before, but how easy is it to build a Ju 88A-1 from the Revell (or indeed the Dragon) A-4? Is it simply a matter of changing the canopy? I also note that Falcon Clear-Vax 35 includes a canopy for a "Ju 88A-1/A-5" - I assume this means that the A-5 and A-1 canopies were identical.

    I'll be pursuing other lines of enquiry on this, but any information would be helpful and appreciated.

    TIA

  6. Ian,

    If it's 1:72 I feel for you, I've built that kit!

    As for your question, no idea, but I suspect it would fit in with the rest of the colour scheme. So if it's a gloss scheme (satin on a model, I'd suggest) then spinners are also satin.

    HTH,

  7. Btw, does it happen also to you? I can't ever mix just enough Milliput for the work I'm doing. I always mix at least the double of what I really need! What a waste!

    If you've got enough surplus, why mot mould it into scale sandbags or similar for a display base or diorama.

  8. Thomas,

    They don't seem to have a brand name. I can't remember who I bought them from - I think it was "Little Cars". They're listed on the website under "Tools and Accessories", ref "DM29", if these are the same things I bought. (http://www.little-cars.co.uk/pricelst.htm)

    To describe them: you get about 5 supeglue tips and a length of polycarbonate (?) micro-diameter tube. Insert tube in nozzle, cut to length, and leave on superglue bottle. The tiny bit of superglue that dries on the end is easily removed, then simply let capilliary action do the work and apply superglue exactly where you want it. I've so far only used the system with fairly thick gel superglue, it's great!!

    HTH,

  9. Hi Jen,

    I think we're complementary rather than competing. :rofl: Avon, not small at all, but still beautifully formed, meet monthly on the third Wednesday, so between the two Bristol groups you could go to two meetings a month, and there are some who are members of both. We have about 50 members, with upwards of 30 turning up each month. Each meeting usually centres around a talk or some other "event"; we have one branch comp a year, otherwise just bring along your latest creation or work in progress and have a drink and a chat.

    Benefits: we have a comprehensive branch library and decal bank, and a policy of encouraging national IPMS membership via a subs-based incentive (it's simpler than that sounds!) And don't forget that we run the Best one-day show on the circuit. Check our website out for more info.

    There are several members live in your neck of the woods, PM me and I'll send details.

    Cheers,

  10. I went to Scale Modelworld and I bought (hey, it's just like one of those memory games you used to play when you were a child, the one where you add something each time):

    Gavia La7;

    Hasegawa 109E-4 and G-6, bargain at £10 each;

    Airfix Hurricane I (another bargain @ £5);

    Aeroclub S-3 Viking undercarriage;

    Osprey "Slovak and Bulgarian Aces of WW2";

    A bunch of paints;

    Some micro-nozzles for superglue (wow what a find, they make using superglue about 400% easier);

    and looking at my hotel bar bill, a few drinks as well.

    Thanks also to Graham, Seb and Brian D for the various freebies. If there's ever anything I can do for you guys ...

  11. Indeed Ken, I remember your excellent talk on all things Flanker-related. Also remember you sent me some useful info on MiG 21s once, for which thanks again. The Fishbed's nearly finished btw, used the CMK resin set, and the build was, shall we say, not without its moments. :blink:

    I actually meant Jen, but of course, you'll always be welcome at the Rotunda too (as will any visitors or prospective new members). :blink:

  12. Jen,

    Very well done, a deserved win.

    Jen,

    ...do you belong to any model clubs in the area ?? I go to one in Bristol (not IPMS Avon).

    Cheers

    Ken

    Why not come along and join us at Avon? You're assured (as is everyone) of a warm welcome. We have quite a few members from your neck of the woods. Third Wednesday of every month. Check out the link in my sig (the webmaster is also an ARCer).

    Cheers,

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