MikeC

Around the period you specify a matt natural metal seemed to be the common finish. I lived 11 miles from Mildenhall so saw plenty of them both at the annual open day and overhead every day. "... corrosion protective called Corogard. ... collected oil stains like a magnet." When I say natural metal, it could have been the Corogard. They could certainly look mucky.

Well that's not the post I replied to - what happened????

Hi Jfgesquire, I'm building a couple of Deuces at the moment. One is a Case XX wing, the other is the Pro-Modeller boxing of the Case X wing. Both clear sprues have part no 62 on them, two per sprue, but there is no reference that I could find (I've just looked) to part 62 in the Pro-Modeller instructions either. Part 62 seems to be some sort of light. Interesting, I hadn't spotted that, but they'll be useful spares box fodder. As for your last question, haven't a clue; was the majority of production Case X? HTH, Michael

Marcel & Waco, Many thanks, I knew that someone here was bound to know. The F-111 in question was certainly late 80s/early 90s. Happy New Year to you and all here, Michael

Question for all you USAF experts: some aircraft have/had the squadron designation on the port side of the fin, eg "493 TFS" on this F-111 on an Xtradecal sheet I have (http://www.hannants.co.uk/search/?FULL=X00648). However, on the starboard side it says not "493 TFS" but "493 AMU" - same number but different acronym. I've also seen a similar thing in the Hasegawa F-16B, so I don't think it was something unique to that subject. Whilst we probably all know what "TFS" means, can anyone tell me and the rest of the ARC community what "AMU" means in this context? TIA and Happy New Year,

Thanks guys. Started to work on the extra windows and build up the interior last night. It certainly fits well. This one's the USAFE example on the kit decal sheet: http://www.airliners.net/open.file?id=9433...&next_id=938682 If I like the kit enough by the end I may even buy another one and do the Finnish example as well. Thanks again.

First apologies if this should be in the "airliners" section, but my reasoning was that this is a business or military communications aircraft rather than an airliner, so here I am. Anyway, I've just bought a Revell 1/48 Learjet as a change from my usual fare, and just started cutting plastic. Seems OK, parts seem to fit bar a slightly warped wing. Decals for two civilian (US and Canada) aircraft and two USAF C-21As. Only major problem is that if you're making the C-21As there should be an extra window to the rear of the four windows already there on the port side. On the starboard side t

When I'm doing a long session I keep an old paintbrush and a small pot of alcohol to remove any buildup from the tip. I add retarder (Cryla "Flow Enhancer") to most acrylics, including Tamiya. Always use Tamiya's own thinner with their paints, ditto Xtracylix (also good for handbrushing). I use a Badger 155, it's the same tip (I understand) as the 360 and one selling point was how well it worked with acrylics. HTH, welcome to house-and-spouse-friendly airbrushing.

I suspect you're right that it was borrowed from the Austrian AF - some of these aircraft went on a good while. I remember walking through London one day in about 1994 or 1995, looking up at an unusual noise, and there was a "Tante Ju" heading Southeast over the River. I think it was the one preserved by Lufthansa - anyone know if there are any others around still?

Cryla "Acrylic flow Enhancer" (ie retarder) works fine for me, in conjunction with their own brand thinners.

My lead foil comes from my local supermarket. It's not cheap - on average about £5 per piece - but it does come with a free bottle of wine. :(

What I do depends on what the real aircraft had. On those with conventional tailplane and elevator, I attach before painting, as there's usually a tailplane/fuselage joint to deal with. On those with an "all-flying" tailplane there is by definition a separation, and I often find it easier to paint first and attach afterwards (eg F-4 Phantom, A-7 Corsair II). However, ultimately, it depends on what suits you for the model you are building at the time. HTH,

Hi there, Only just saw this thread, and here I am, down in Bristol. Has anyone mentioned this site http://www.wokka.co.uk/ yet?

Indeed it does. I enjoyed building mine, despite the raised panel lines. By the time it has a coat or two of GSB they make little difference - but then they don't particularly bother me anyway. I used the HVARs and mountings from a Hasegawa P-51, only real issue is working out exactly where they go. Look forward to seeing some pix of yours finished, enjoy the rest of it.

True afficionados will probably know this site, but it was news to me. Enjoy http://www.bywat.co.uk/index.html

According to an IPMS branch colleague who accosted the people on the Airfix stand at Yeovilton, it's descended from the old Vb via the Seafire IIIC, ie the VC wings and new fuselage etc etc. Looking forward to it.

Thanks Mike, Ill check them out. I'd forgotten there was a J kit; may also find one at my local model show in two weeks time. BTW, for UK ARC-ers that's the IPMS Avon show, 21st August, Yate Leisure Centre near Bristol. See you there! ;)

I was very interested to see the new Eagle Strike decals for an F-3, as one of the options has the name "Starize". This would make a lovely comparison with my model of the Alconbury-based RF-4C with the same name. http://www.hannants.co.uk/search/?FULL=ESP48204 I've got the Italeri kit somewhere in the stash, but this has a solid nose. Does anyone know of an aftermarket glazed nose for same to enable the J variant? TIA

Personally I support the circle template method, and make my own: a compass cutter and thin card are all that's needed. Blu-Tack can help in positioning and holding the template on the spinner. HTH

I've tried both, and get best results with Tamiya's own thinner (no I do not have shares neither am I on the payroll). I also add a drop of Cryla "acrylic flow enhancer" (drying retarder). Ratios? I tend to go on "that's about right", depends on the colour. HTH

Monogram AV-8B I won on Ebay.

I built that, and cheated by using the Airfix Tiger to source the struts and u/c. It was finished as a Cambridge UAS machine post-war and turned out rather nicely, but alas when I moved house it ended up as a Cat 5 (=write-off) monoplane. Shame, as I don't build many biplanes - the T/M was in 1994 or so, the next biplane I built was started a month ago. Anyway, if you can get hold of an Aeroclub that's what I'd recommend.

And don't forget to position the control column accordingly - how many models do you see at shows with beautifully displaced control surfaces and the stick dead central?

Small package with Neomega MB Mk IV seat (Mirage IIIE for the use of) and Sea Harrier cockpit. Told myself I've got to finish one before I can start the SHAR, fortunately the A-7's in the decalling shop at the moment so not long!!

Cloggy, I look forward to seeing it in the plastic. Cheers, Mike