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MikeC

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Everything posted by MikeC

  1. Thanks guys. Started to work on the extra windows and build up the interior last night. It certainly fits well. This one's the USAFE example on the kit decal sheet: http://www.airliners.net/open.file?id=9433...&next_id=938682 If I like the kit enough by the end I may even buy another one and do the Finnish example as well. Thanks again.
  2. First apologies if this should be in the "airliners" section, but my reasoning was that this is a business or military communications aircraft rather than an airliner, so here I am. Anyway, I've just bought a Revell 1/48 Learjet as a change from my usual fare, and just started cutting plastic. Seems OK, parts seem to fit bar a slightly warped wing. Decals for two civilian (US and Canada) aircraft and two USAF C-21As. Only major problem is that if you're making the C-21As there should be an extra window to the rear of the four windows already there on the port side. On the starboard side there should be a corresponding one, but the frontmost window needs filling. That's a relatively simple cut-and-Clearfix/fill job. Anyone got further than I have and got any views? Also what is this kit's provenance? Original Revell or someone else's? Whilst I'm probably going to build the USAFE C-21A, there is one that tempts me more the more I think about it. Would this Finnish example be a radar reconnaissance version? http://www.airliners.net/open.file?id=9296...&next_id=925633 Any more info on that appreciated too. TIA,
  3. When I'm doing a long session I keep an old paintbrush and a small pot of alcohol to remove any buildup from the tip. I add retarder (Cryla "Flow Enhancer") to most acrylics, including Tamiya. Always use Tamiya's own thinner with their paints, ditto Xtracylix (also good for handbrushing). I use a Badger 155, it's the same tip (I understand) as the 360 and one selling point was how well it worked with acrylics. HTH, welcome to house-and-spouse-friendly airbrushing.
  4. I suspect you're right that it was borrowed from the Austrian AF - some of these aircraft went on a good while. I remember walking through London one day in about 1994 or 1995, looking up at an unusual noise, and there was a "Tante Ju" heading Southeast over the River. I think it was the one preserved by Lufthansa - anyone know if there are any others around still?
  5. Cryla "Acrylic flow Enhancer" (ie retarder) works fine for me, in conjunction with their own brand thinners.
  6. My lead foil comes from my local supermarket. It's not cheap - on average about £5 per piece - but it does come with a free bottle of wine. :(
  7. What I do depends on what the real aircraft had. On those with conventional tailplane and elevator, I attach before painting, as there's usually a tailplane/fuselage joint to deal with. On those with an "all-flying" tailplane there is by definition a separation, and I often find it easier to paint first and attach afterwards (eg F-4 Phantom, A-7 Corsair II). However, ultimately, it depends on what suits you for the model you are building at the time. HTH,
  8. Hi there, Only just saw this thread, and here I am, down in Bristol. Has anyone mentioned this site http://www.wokka.co.uk/ yet?
  9. Indeed it does. I enjoyed building mine, despite the raised panel lines. By the time it has a coat or two of GSB they make little difference - but then they don't particularly bother me anyway. I used the HVARs and mountings from a Hasegawa P-51, only real issue is working out exactly where they go. Look forward to seeing some pix of yours finished, enjoy the rest of it.
  10. True afficionados will probably know this site, but it was news to me. Enjoy http://www.bywat.co.uk/index.html
  11. According to an IPMS branch colleague who accosted the people on the Airfix stand at Yeovilton, it's descended from the old Vb via the Seafire IIIC, ie the VC wings and new fuselage etc etc. Looking forward to it.
  12. MikeC

    A-20/F-3 Glass Nose

    Thanks Mike, Ill check them out. I'd forgotten there was a J kit; may also find one at my local model show in two weeks time. BTW, for UK ARC-ers that's the IPMS Avon show, 21st August, Yate Leisure Centre near Bristol. See you there! ;)
  13. MikeC

    A-20/F-3 Glass Nose

    I was very interested to see the new Eagle Strike decals for an F-3, as one of the options has the name "Starize". This would make a lovely comparison with my model of the Alconbury-based RF-4C with the same name. http://www.hannants.co.uk/search/?FULL=ESP48204 I've got the Italeri kit somewhere in the stash, but this has a solid nose. Does anyone know of an aftermarket glazed nose for same to enable the J variant? TIA
  14. Personally I support the circle template method, and make my own: a compass cutter and thin card are all that's needed. Blu-Tack can help in positioning and holding the template on the spinner. HTH
  15. I've tried both, and get best results with Tamiya's own thinner (no I do not have shares neither am I on the payroll). I also add a drop of Cryla "acrylic flow enhancer" (drying retarder). Ratios? I tend to go on "that's about right", depends on the colour. HTH
  16. I built that, and cheated by using the Airfix Tiger to source the struts and u/c. It was finished as a Cambridge UAS machine post-war and turned out rather nicely, but alas when I moved house it ended up as a Cat 5 (=write-off) monoplane. Shame, as I don't build many biplanes - the T/M was in 1994 or so, the next biplane I built was started a month ago. Anyway, if you can get hold of an Aeroclub that's what I'd recommend.
  17. And don't forget to position the control column accordingly - how many models do you see at shows with beautifully displaced control surfaces and the stick dead central?
  18. Small package with Neomega MB Mk IV seat (Mirage IIIE for the use of) and Sea Harrier cockpit. Told myself I've got to finish one before I can start the SHAR, fortunately the A-7's in the decalling shop at the moment so not long!!
  19. Cloggy, I look forward to seeing it in the plastic. Cheers, Mike
  20. MikeC

    Express masks

    I've left Eduard masks a few days, no ill-effects, just make sure they are stuck again before the second coat of paint. Incidentally, I have an Eduard P-51B set that has been used for 3 models now - is this a record?
  21. I remember reading that - I think it was in Scale Aircraft Modelling in the late 80s or early 90s - must look it up.
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