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MikeC

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Posts posted by MikeC


  1. Hi Ken,

    XF-18 on its own is too dark and not grey enough; 3 parts XF18 Medium Blue mixed with 2 parts XF-2 White is a near perfect match for PRU blue. This has the added advantage that you can vary the white if you're into post-shading.


  2. Mike. My biggest question is why a isingle Luftwaffe photo recon aircraft couldn't get a picture of the D-Day invasion buildup in southern England.

    Don't want to derail the thread, but the short answer is that reconnaissance aircraft, usually operating singly, did not tend to get over here, get the pictures, then make it back to base without being intercepted. Between about 1941 and 1944, when Me262 recce aircraft were sent over London to assess V2 damage, practically no effective sustained reconnaissance took place.

    That being the case, even if the Germans did see a large concentration of troops and materiel, they had no way of knowing whether this was normal or a build-up. You need several sorties over a sustained period to compare in order to determine this.

    If you're interested in finding out more, I recommend this book: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Spies-Sky-Secret-Battle-Intelligence/dp/1408703629


  3. I built the HiPM kit and thoroughly enjoyed it. The chord of the wing is a bit short, but I decided I could live with that, and in hindsight I could have improved the fin fillet a bit more. It was a bit bothersome to fit the windscreen part, but I did it without scratching the clear bits!! The kit does provide a small sheet of photo-etch, and when finished it looks the part, particularly contrasted with a D/K. Re the decals, two ANG and two post-war USAAF versions provided, but the stars on the national markings are out of proportion, so these need replacing, not exactly hard to find replacements.

    I'll post a photo if I can find one. Summary: "Modelling skills required", and very satisfying to build.

    (Edited to show the spell-checker that this once I meant what I typed!!)


  4. For a "significant" birthday a few years ago, MrsC :wub: bought me a trip in a Tiger; on a lovely August day I enjoyed a trip in G-APFU, including (as I have experience) flying it most of the time. That's me in the front, the airfield is Goodwood, better known in WWII as Westhampnett

    IMG_1836.jpg


  5. Does a glider count?

    Mine was simple: "Well, you've got it up, now you've got to get it down in one piece", overlaid on top of of the realization that the aircraft was, indeed, lighter and a bit more of a handful without the instructor, plus the sheer exhilaration. :yahoo: Not forgetting, of course, the 45-degree rule, speed on finals, whether to use spoilersor not, and did I really get 1100 ft off the (winch) launch??


  6. I don't usually use a polish on the main model, but I do on canopies: I use a product called "Bare Metal" plastic polish. It comes in a bottle which is the same size and style as the Micro Sol/Set solutions, and one of those lasts me literally years; but it brings canopies up to a lovely finish to the extent that I've been asked whether they're been dipped in floor polish. If you can find some, recommended.


  7. Hi Big Daddy, and thanks, no problem re mentioning the exhaust staining. I was working from a number of photos including some this book and came to the conclusion that it could appear, although it was certainly less - you'll notice I've tried to make it less than on the other areas. But fair comment. :)


  8. Thanks for the kind words guys.

    Falcon20driver, it is certainly big. When you say "Tamiya", and most people think of a kit that falls together almost perfectly. And whilst many Tamiya kits are like that (notably their P-51s) this is not one of them. The fit is not bad, but not up to the usual Tamiya standard in places.

    Most of the problems are around the engine nacelles. The instructions specify fitting the main undercarriage units early on in the build, and I could not work out a way to leave them until later; this makes them a bit vulnerable.

    The fit of the engines is the worst part. Each is made up of the main nacelle, to which is added two cowlings and a front end for each engine, as well as two optional engines for display with the cowlings off. They fit where they touch. The Belcher engines remove the need for this work, although they also need some fettling to fit, but also they are a much better representation of the Merlin.

    The last boxing issued contained additional parts, including both types of prop, treaded or plain mainwheels, and the later rear turret. If you're building the earlier version, note that the gun mountings are reversed in the instructions. And finally I would thoroughly recommend the Eduard canopy mask set, especially for that "glasshouse" canopy.

    But yes, I would recommend it provided you set your expectations accordingly and don't mind a bit of work.


  9. My latest finish, hot off the workbench. It represents a slightly unusual Lanc, TW669 of the Central Photographic Establishment at Benson in the late 1940s. It's slightly unusual in that it apparently received a photographic fit, but was never converted to the full PR standard - as you see, it retained the turrets.

    It's the Tamiya 1:48 kit with Belcher engines, and some Eduard detail, notably seat harnesses. Decals were kit decals for stencils, "generics", and the large underwing serials were done with custom-ordered (and recommended) Miracle Masks. Walkway lines masked and sprayed.

    IMG_2401_zps258d05b5.jpg

    IMG_2404_zps2a857fc9.jpg

    IMG_2407_zps8c27d28e.jpg

    IMG_2408_zps6a927ecb.jpg

    It took three years elapsed time, which did include many periods on the "pause" shelf while I did something smaller and less daunting - but finally finished it yesterday. As I did, I was listening (as is my wont) to Classic FM. As I stuck the prop for engine no 4 in position, thus completing it, the radio launched into Handel's "Halleluiah Chorus" - appropriate or what?

    Anyway, thanks for looking.


  10. I made a bit of a resolution to finish more when I once had seven on the go, and I now manage to keep it down to three or four. Trouble is, I use acrylics, and when you spray these they tend to need two or three days curing before you can safely handle them to mask up for the next colour.

    So I have another one on the go, then I get to gluing a bit that needs time, to set, so need something else to keep occupied. I also try and keep things at various stages, so if I get fed up with painting I can do some building or sanding for a change. And like one the guys above, I tend to spray more than one model when I've got an airbrush with some colour in.

    Ultimately, you will find what you are comfortable with, and don't let anyone else tell you that's the "wrong" way to do it.


  11. ...They are much sharper than an ordinary hobby blade. They will go through your skin so easily you won't notice until about a full second after the cut, and they cut deep.

    True: you can guess how I know ...

    ... Use the proper handle—they're cheap. You can get them at Widget supply.

    Good advice. In fact they are cheap enough (here in the UK at least) to invest in a handle for each blade shape, to avoid having to change blades. I use three: 10, 11 and 15T.

    Talking of changing blades, use extreme care to avoid finding out how sharp even a used blade can be! Swann Morton do make a blade remover, but I don't have one. http://www.swann-morton.com/product_range/13.php


  12. I guess I'm "old-school" here. I never had the pre-packaged kits- I had the general sets that had the various blocks and shapes, and it was up to me and my imagination to come up with designs. Loved it! ...

    Me too, I remember when the most specialised items were the sloping bricks to make a pitched roof. Now my grandson is very much into Lego, particularly the Star Wars sets, and the Lego Star Wars and Indiana Jones Wii games.

    Incidentally, I do still have some - I use it to make jigs for building my aircraft models, it's very adaptable for that purpose for anything from WWI to modern jets.


  13. I'll agree with Curt, buy the Superfine. I use it all the time, (except on Tamiya P-51s - no filler needed :-) )

    As you probably know, Milliputcomes as two sticks which need mixing. The trick is to mix exactly the same amounts of filler and hardener - how I achieve that is to roll out a small "sausage" of each part, making sure they're the same diameter, then use equal lengths.

    HTH


  14. Niiiice. Mustang Mk III with a Malcolm hood in RAF clothes, just about perfection. ...

    Steve.

    Without wishing to hi-jack the thread, and certainly no criticism of the OP's model, a pony with black and white D-Day stripes looks even better imo. :)


  15. That's rather nice! :thumbsup: In particular, a nice tidy paint job. Was the camo masked or freehand?

    Couple of small points, though, if you don't mind. Firstly, I'd query the paint chipping on the trailing edge of one prop blade - the 11 o'clock blade looked at from the front.

    Secondly, more a query than a crit: RAF Mustangs generally extended the white nose back from the spinner in the same way that the 8th Air Force P-51 groups did. Did you have a photo that showed it the way you've depicted it?

    But aside from those, a super job, well done.

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