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Bobo1953

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About Bobo1953

  • Rank
    bobo1953
  • Birthday 12/03/1953

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    ANGERA, (VARESE) NORTHERN ITALY
  • Interests
    -military aircrafts...and modeling them!
    -music: audiophile

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  1. Academy 1/48th F-16C decal issues

    my pleasure, swash. well, if they float away from the paper support within 30'', i'm afraid that there's something wrong with the whole lot. the sheet may be defective; for instance they can have received a too little quantity of glue in the process of the production. at this point i'm not sure that the microscale liquid decal film treatment could avoid this early separation from the paper, but: either you ask academy a replcement sheet, or you work with what you have. in the second case, as you will have to mess up with each and every decal (!) the liquid film treatment colud make sense in that it would strenghten the decals and protect them somewhat from all the stress of rubbing and curling and handling etc. i really wouldn't like to be in your shoes, my pal! i wish you all the best of luck for the job you're confronted with... ah, a last suggestion: instead of solvaset and similars, use your own saliva, yeah, spit, to have your decals set. then, when dry, you can use microsol to have them adhere to irregularities, panel lines and rivets etc... wholeheartedly, happy modeling! ciao. bobo.
  2. Academy 1/48th F-16C decal issues

    hi. first out i don't know solvaset; it's not available in my country. though, i know what it is. now. did you use solvaset by default or you tried to tame the reluctant decal with it after it curled up? actually i never had such problems especially with academy decals, bit i throw an hypotesis, i.e. that solvaset reacted somehow with the decal and softened it too much. then it curled. now the decal has no more glue left to stick to the i.p. i suggest that you dip the decal into a cup of water and leave there floating free to see what happens. if it straightens up a bit, then there's a new tamiya decal glue you can get. then pick up the decal on an adequate brush, then apply the tamiya product on the plastic i.p. and eventually try to lay down the decal on it letting it slip from the brush. a more complicated but perhaps necessary action could be -after bathing it- to lay the decal back on its paper support, let it dry and airbrush it with several coats of microscale liquid decal film. it will preserve from cracking and will toughten it making it more rigid. allow to cure -they say 15 ', but i'd wait at least 45'- trim the decal film as much as you dare to, then dip it again in water and if it gives signs of life i.e. begins to move somehow on the paper, apply tamiya decal glue and slip the decal on the i.p.. i'd add: if liquid film works, shoot the whole decal sheet with it! hope it helps. best ciaos, and happy modeling! bobo.
  3. F4D-1 Skyray

    hi dekon. i have had the same problem with the vietnam era skyraider gear doors rims some time ago. in the end it wound up as that it depends on the period, but if you check it "by the book" you will find out that the t.o. for red on "pinching" areas was issued by the navy in a some year i should go and check myself as i can't remember for sure. BUT from the t.o. to reality it might have passsed even years. i mean that some squadrons adopted the red almost immediately while some others took their time. you can even find -e.g. for the a-4- in the same sqadron some aircraft painted and others unpainted. so, it's just a bit up to you. if you like how it looks, paint it red; otherwise leave it f.s. 36440 as all upper fixed surfaces. upon your input i made myself -i have too a tamiya f-d 4 who's waiting in my stash- a little web search, but the only red painted slats' steps i found were in a model kit made by someone who iked it that way. so, put yourself in the shoes of a squadron leader or better of a crew chief and just do as you feel. anyway, i repeat, that most of the color pics don't show red at any rate. hope this helps. best ciaos and happy modeling! bobo.
  4. Stencils for russian weapons

    hi everybody, and as it's only slightly used, happy new year!!! i want to spread the news about something that happened rather unexpectedly. i was looking for 1/72 decal stencils for the otherwise bare icm (i don't know of dragon) soviet/russian aircraft weapons, and i fell on a google image full of stencils. out of curiosity, and with a whiff of hope i opened the page and it was the review of the begemot's decal sheet for the su-27 #72-030. perhaps i am just, litteral as we say in italian: "discovering hot water". but, just in case... well, included are full stencils for the following weapons: R-73 m, l R-27 t, et, er Kh59, m Kh29 t, l Kh58 m Kh31 p Kh41 and so many others that i realize now it's much better to post the pdf file:...heck! no way. then copy/paste this link: http://www.begemotdecals.ru/doc/72-030 Su-27 stencil (2).pdf and klick it...will travel! and...not only missiles, but also racks and rails have stencils: a gold mine. price is us$ 9,40 + airmail to europe (believe u.s.a. should be the same) us$ 5,50 my set has been dispatched by begemot yesterday... my best wishes and happy modeling. best ciaos, bobo.
  5. print decals tamed!

    hey guys, i made it. thanks to the fundamental contribution of HistnScale/Dave i can tell you that i have found a way to tame the eel-like print scale decals. actually, as in every touch of genius (dave) there ain't no miracle or strange way. i just shoot with my airbrush some 5 ml.* of microscale liquid decal film thinned 50/50 with isopropylalcohol (the liquid's thinner) on the 72-001 (u.s. bombs and rockets in ww ii and korea) print scale sheet of decals. as many genial thoughts it's just simple...but not a smpleton's thinking... the decals, even the smallest stencils, tretaed this way become submissive and easily manageable. i'm in touch with ms. chekhovskaya, P.-S. owner, and i wish that my feedback on our difficulties and visions about decals ain't but the start of a serious exchange of perspectives and perceptions for the future. *=very likely quite less than that. i'm still experimenting, and actually -look out!- with this thickness, come problems of decal-paper separation and also, of decal compliance with the most sharp curves and unevennesses. had to work quite a lot with micro sol and tamiya decal adhesive, and with my trusty "decal brush". anyway, better have to work on the decal than trash it. i will go on testing, but i believe that 2.5 - 3.0 ml. (50% thinned) of liquid decal film evenly shoot on a whole print scale sheet format could become the right proportion. please test yourselves, and let me have your feedbacks both via P.M. or -what i encourage- as answers to this thread. have a nice modeling! best ciaos, bobo.
  6. the print scale decals tamed

    yeah guys, i made it. thanks to the fundamental contribution of HistnScale/Dave i can tell you that i have found a way to tame the eel-like print scale decals. actually, as in every touch of genius (dave) there ain't no miracle or strange way. i just shoot with my airbrush some 5 ml.* of microscale liquid decal film thinned 50/50 with isopropylalcohol (the liquid's thinner) on the 72-001 (u.s. bombs and rockets in ww ii and korea) print scale sheet of decals. as many genial thoughts it's just simple...but not a smpleton's thinking... the decals, even the smallest stencils, tretaed this way become submissive and easily manageable. i'm in touch with ms. chekhovskaya, P.-S. owner, and i wish that my feedback on our difficulties and visions about decals ain't but the start of a serious exchange of perspectives and perceptions for the future. *=very likely quite less than that. i'm still experimenting, and actually -look out!- with this thickness, come problems of decal-paper separation and also, of decal compliance with the most sharp curves and unevennesses. had to work quite a lot with micro sol and tamiya decal adhesive, and with my trusty "decal brush". anyway, better have to work on the decal than trash it. i will go on testing, but i believe that 2.5 - 3.0 ml. (50% thinned) of liquid decal film evenly shoot on a whole print scale sheet format could become the right proportion. please test yourselves, and let me have your feedbacks both via P.M. or -what i encourage- as answers to this thread. have a nice modeling! best ciaos, bobo.
  7. but, does print scale suck?

    yeah guys, i made it. thanks to the fundamental contribution of HistnScale/Dave i can tell you that i have found a way to tame the eel-like print scale decals. actually, as in every touch of genius (dave) there ain't no miracle or strange way. i just shoot with my airbrush some 5 ml.* of microscale liquid decal film thinned 50/50 with isopropylalcohol (the liquid's thinner) on the 72-001 (u.s. bombs and rockets in ww ii and korea) print scale sheet of decals. as many genial thoughts it's just simple...but not a smpleton's thinking... the decals, even the smallest stencils, tretaed this way become submissive and easily manageable. i'm in touch with ms. chekhovskaya, P.-S. owner, and i wish that my feedback on our difficulties and visions about decals ain't but the start of a serious exchange of perspectives and perceptions for the future. *=very likely quite less than that. i'm still experimenting, and actually -look out!- with this thickness, come problems of decal-paper separation and also, of decal compliance with the most sharp curves and unevennesses. had to work quite a lot with micro sol and tamiya decal adhesive, and with my trusty "decal brush". anyway, better have to work on the decal than trash it. i will go on testing, but i believe that 2.5 - 3.0 ml. (50% thinned) of liquid decal film evenly shoot on a whole print scale sheet format could become the right proportion. please test yourselves, and let me have your feedbacks both via P.M. or -what i encourage- as answers to this thread. have a nice modeling! best ciaos, bobo.
  8. What's the best kit you built in 2017?

    et voilà, le skyraidér est servi...: https://photos.app.goo.gl/y8JNXoXq6LF5QwWO2 she has a sister, an older sister, that is, she was built in 2013; it could be a nice gesture to pay her a visit ...: https://goo.gl/photos/MjGcXJXCRLrKeTcZ8 thank you very much for your interest, don. my goal was to reproduce lt. patton's bird, but at the same time i love the varied and heavy payload of the able dog; i don't know wat was patton's panoplia on the day he downed the mig, so i believe that i got to a mix of fantasy and reality. like this, she was intended in an antipersonnel role, so we have nape, rocks, suu 30, suu14 (oob: i love it...), ...and as patton did shoot a couple of zunis to the mig 17 he eventually downed, there are two lau 10... i must make a sort of a disclaimer here. yeah, my skyraider is too clean, whilst it's a dirty machine, and the absence of the engine exhaust and oil mustaches will cause more than one eyebrow to raise. nevertheless, i like to build models of aircrafts as just out of the paint shop. thence, even in case i would think of making an exception...well...i have no know-how in weathering and any attempt at it could have winded out in a disaster... again, thank you for your kind attention, and be prepared: i'm finishing a very peculiar blue f-2h3 banshee and i will post it here as it has become an habit. have a great day, have a happy modeling, and and my best ciaos!
  9. What's the best kit you built in 2017?

    hi don. first out, thanks a lot for your appraisal of my little birds. manufacturer and scale are in the title of each of the googlepoto albums of which i gave the link to. anyway, it's all 1/72; the f-102 is a meng case xx; the f-84f italeri, the ho4s-3 again, italeri. just tell me, don the mon-key handler, i personally feel as having shown-off enough, but would you like me to post, from 2017 too, also an ad-h skyraider (1/72, hasegawa) ? thanksandciaooo! bobo.
  10. but, does print scale suck?

    Dave, you re a genius! I don't know how i didn't think this myself; perhaps i've been always so concentrated on the rebelling decals that my brains had no space for anything else. Sure! You shoot a good thick coat of micro liquid film and you solve both the rolling problem and the one connected to the too little film around complex shaped decals... GREAT, dave, i believe that this could be the way or that it would anyway help. Pity i'm abroad now otherwise i would immediately run for the airbrush and shoot the sheet with a full bottle of microscale liquid decal film...i will have to wait until monday...aaarrrghh... I will let everybody know how it worked. Infinite thanks and best ciaos, bobo.
  11. hi everybody. i want to share with you a problem i have had with print decals since the first time i used them. in truth, they're almost unusable, unuseful; they are very palatable, but really, how many of the decals -all the more so stencils- in a 1/72 sheet can you really put to use without having to trash them in the process? is it my problem that can not handle thin decals after 50 years of modeling? after the last disappointment, i sent to print scale the following. hope that i won't be killed by some ex-kgb agent... "hi at print scale. i don't want to brag, but i am a very experienced modeler, and i have dealt with all kinds of decals. let me say that i appreciate very much the effort your company is making in order to offer the modelers a very wide range of novel and innovative opportunities for their models. actually you are covering a lot of neglected themes in aircraft modeling with many very detailed decal sets. it is sad that your decals be made to be watched at, but not to be effectively utilized by any modeler. in facts you're luring modelers with very interesting subjects that simply are so in theory. when you try to place one of your too thin and self-curling decals you sadly discover that they're more prone to attach on themselves than on the model. as a matter of fact, as you try to slide them from the paper, they bend over on the other side of the same paper. this gives start to a fight to have the decal displayed on the surface of the model while it bends, curls, rolls on itself until it folds: at this point there's no more hope to salvage it. even dipping the decal free in the water cup, it remains stuck firmly folded and is lost. an examlple for all: your very palatable, innovative set #72-001, "u.s. ww ii/korea bomb & rocket markings". a sheet of stencils in 1/72...yumm yummm! very finely printed, with the least of support film trimmed just at the edge of the stencils. (too close!) at first, enthusiastic, i open the plastic bag. first disappointment. i believe that there's no modeler who doesn't know that stencils on olive drab in the u.s. weaponry are yellow. well, all stencils in the set are black! fortunately the rings are almost the right yellow... i have 4 HVAR to make. i cut one by one the yellow stripe with a -white...?!!- sort of stencil attached first. as i feared from previous experiences, the yellow strip is supported only by the (too) minimum film around it. on the very wet (another trick learned with print scale) surface of the rocket i gently push the strip-attached stencil with my trusted brush...and the yellow strip bends on the other side of the paper spport. i pull back the stencil but the yellow band warps on itself. to cut short, i tried to turn the yellow band the right side but in vain. it eventually folds over and it's stuck. i try to bath it into the water cup to no avail, it remains stuck. second try: now the decal hesitantly slips on the rocket, i move it to center keeping a lot of water because i have learned that this kind of decals "floats" onto water and this way they're better manageable. in short, this time it is the stencil that folds down on itself and the band in a definitive way. third try: in a sort of a miracle the decal "rides" down the drop of water i placed on the hvar, and although with a very whimsical attitude i end up placing the decal roughly at its place...but the yellow band is too short, so it doesn't fit end to end. ok, this side will go under the pylon and will be hidden. fourth and fifth (i had cut out another decal from the sheet) attempts: a blob of decals with the same bending-over, curling and folding process. i decide to give up and come to the pc and write this letter of complaint as, stencils apart, if i had masked the little thing and painted it a yellow stripe myself i would have saved time and health. i had a previous experience with such decals and particularily the stencils of another attractive print scale set, the #72-019 for uh-1 hueys, and it was a nightmare. let me say again that i'm not a beginner, albeit an experienced modeler who has fought his battles on many different battlefields. then my point is: why you make decal sets that are very attractive but in the end hardly usable? a nasty answer could be: because we flood the market with products which are -probably- very cheap to produce, we lure modelers with rare or non-existent decal-themes, and we sell at high but competitive prices a lot, and we make a whole heap of money. i can't see any other reason why an apparently respectable and laudable decal company would produce decals that are hot subjects but are so deplorably useless. i look forward to hearing from you, thanks. with doubtful regards, dr. marino -bobo- romeo."
  12. What's the best kit you built in 2017?

    i know that we're in the jet modeling forum, but ain't any rotorhead around here? well, because i have another model that delved deep into my heart this year and i would really like to share it with all of you. i hope not to be reprimanded for this transforum transgression. it's a bit of one of the dearest, warmest, most enthusing memories of mychildhood i tried to revive, though in a smaller scale: the ho4s-3 of deep freze antarctica opertion, revell made in the late fifties in 1/48 scale, and italeri made in 1/72 in another geological epoch. here's the link to her album in googlephoto: https://photos.app.goo.gl/KscSQ2CWUPCK58Ho1 psssttt...ciaooo...hush...
  13. What's the best kit you built in 2017?

    at first i thought that only one model was intended, but as i see that some have presented more than that, i really feel like doing the same because there's another little bird i really enjoyed and was second to the f-102 as it comes from a lesser, vintage kit. i am proud to present it because it's an unpretentious old italeri with raised lines kit...but beware: she carries an mk. vii nuke! due to my dishability that precludes finding a way to upload better and more numerous pics, here is the usual link to my googlephoto thunderstreak album: https://goo.gl/photos/Si9HTL4ws8sna83W6 although i tried to enrich it with airwaves p.e. and a not very recommandable resin nuke (of which out of correctness i will not mention the maker), it is far from being a perfect model, but i had some difficulties to face and put all of myself on it. wish that you enjoy all the same... best ciaos. bobo.
  14. What's the best kit you built in 2017?

    hi everybody. i dare participate to this show-off just pushed by the love i feel for this model and the joy she gave to me building it. actually i have built several kits, but although i am rather satisfied with most of them, this delta dagger i choose expressely to build as a 57th fis "keflavik black knights" after falling for a picture of her i saw online, is really something special to me, as -it is my very personal and humble opinion- she really succeeded in resembling that very one plane. well, in terms of "ease and enjoyment" in building, this is not the one ; i have already noted on this forum how the precision of the meng engineering and design is definitely overestimated. but nevertheless, once the toils were over, wow! what an enjoyment! i apologize, but i don't know how to stay within the 0,1 mb of upload, so i will upload this one and leave for you the link to the googlephoto album dedicated to this icelandic f-102...if someone wants to have a look he/she is wholeheartedly welcome: https://photos.app.goo.gl/rvXAWGJTWAMZPLk82 thank you and, happy modeling. best ciaos. bobo.
  15. Mixing ratios for FS35109

    hi greenghost. perhps my contribution is out of target, but why do you have to go crazy mixing surrealistic quantities of paints when you can find f.s. 35109, willing and ready, in e.g. testors 2031 enamel or, still e.g., vallejo model air 71.111... ciao! :-) bobo.
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