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Bobo1953

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About Bobo1953

  • Rank
    bobo1953
  • Birthday 12/03/1953

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    ANGERA, (VARESE) NORTHERN ITALY
  • Interests
    -military aircrafts...and modeling them!
    -music: audiophile

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  1. Bobo1953

    second intruder/crusader type pilot by Reedoak

    norbert we are not acquainted, but let me say in capital letters that this is a true masterpiece! how were you able to make head/helmet with such fine tolerances that they can fit one ino the other so perfectly?!!! great! best ciaos, bobo.
  2. Bobo1953

    RF-101C Anti Glare Green

    ok: as seen in the pics i perfectly agree with niels. it's the same green you had on the '104 nose. but on the starfighter it was glossy, and the best match i was able to find is f.s. 14108. sure the pics are very tricky: the difference of light makes changes like the one between the first two and the last photograph, where it looks matt, and definitely tending to O.D. for my starfighter i was definitely satisfied with lifecolor UA 086, f.s. 14108. happy modeling! ciao. bobo.
  3. Bobo1953

    RF-101C Anti Glare Green

    sorry, but 34079 is the "dark green" used in the s.e.a. camo; unless you're doing the 'nam version with this camo pattern, it wouldn't fit elsewhere. ciao! bobo.
  4. Bobo1953

    RF-101C Anti Glare Green

    hi billS. i haven't seen the kh rf-101, but if the anti glare looks green, well i can grant you that, sorry, but it must be one of the infinite shades of the elusive O.D. be it f.s. 34087 or 34088 or O.D. ANA613... personally, for thet plane i would choose the f.s. 34088, but i should do some research about before telling it for sure. hope this helps. best ciaos, bobo.
  5. Bobo1953

    the lilliput bomb wing

    thank you for your appreciation, guys. i'm flattered...😎 actually, dnl42, when provided i prefer to leave the transparencies clear. to me they look more natural, you can see the light through them, the interior is not more complex than a brush stroke of interior green or similars, and you still can have something to show -ideally- inside. i remember the scratch building of the cockpit with seats etc, on an 1/144 c-130a, or the realistic, though impressionistic, sight of red points of the headrests through the windows of a same scale sr-71. think that minicraft b-24 offers seats and consoles, and even a decal for the i.p... as for the fujimi b-29 prop hubs it's a true oriental mystery: in such a nicely detailed kit they made those awful hubs: really no earthly explantion! but this is not the only fault: fujimi did a very nice kit, showing bombs and their racks but forgot the catwalk duct that is very visible through the open bomb bays, and the bays rear bulkhead. i had to use a plastic straw (!) and a rounded piece of plasticard to overcome this omission... i don't want to sound self laudative or vain, but if you want you can have a look at the b-29 and the bombers other than "a bit o' lace" which i have already published. b-29: https://photos.app.goo.gl/xEtGdbUd68Ea42Ax9 b-17f memphis belle: https://photos.app.goo.gl/X3V7oCPDX9YLBmjU9 b-17g little miss mischief: https://photos.app.goo.gl/oF8WTTK7SPXbnEWM8 b-24d dopey: https://photos.app.goo.gl/SZ2QBZvnhtfv2ecc6 again, thank you for your attention and have fun! best ciaos, bobo.
  6. Bobo1953

    the lilliput bomb wing

    hello guys and gals. some time ago i submitted the 1/144 b-17g "a bit o' lace" and shared with you the idea of building a true fleet of ww ii bombers in their so variated liveries and nose art. well, the idea has become a real project and i have built to this day one b-24d, "dopey" from the "snow white and the 7 dwarfes" sqn., two b-17g and one b-17f converted from a "g". it seems impossible but in this scale you can find only "g"s, so i tried and, i believe, succeeded in transforming a "g" with a little improvisation and scratch bulding into the "f" "memphis belle". the two "g"s are the said "a bit o' lace" and "little miss mischief" so now we have 4 a/c of which the three b-17s together have already the look of a powerful, consistent number. plus there's the "dopey" b-24d and for the moment left aside as from another war, a korean war b-29, a really great fujimi kit. now i'm gonna take a pause and build in a bigger scale for a while (1/144 is much more demanding than one could expect); anyway, next lilliput to come will be a b-24j from the "zodiac" sqn, possibly "leo" or "capricorn". i apologize for the poor quality of the fuzzy pictures but the glass shelves give really nasty reflections. here is the link to the googlephoto album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/sKs8o2V7m1Pd3DZdA thank you for watching. best ciaos, and...happy modeling! bobo.
  7. Bobo1953

    98th bg snow white B-24s n. africa: boots or no boots??

    dear greg and steve, thank you for your contribution. actually, i must agree with steve as though i can't tell from a b/w pic an overexposed o.d. from an underexposed desert pink, for sure this dopey is from another a/c than the lybian one of the 98th. at 98th, this nose art was done first on an a/c that was burned as steve says, and it was a slim dopey with a gothic font writing; the second had a bigger and better drawn dopey with the same writing. so, i'm sorry for the pain you took getting all those links, greg, but' i'm aftraid that it's not the "right" dopey. on the kits world decal instructions it seems to have only the tail boots, but i don't trust the instruction sheets from any brand: found in my long modeling career all too many imprecisions, improvisations and blatant mistakles. anyway, if some further help won't come from our honorable society i believe that i will contact the kits world boss and ask him about his sources. thank you very much to both of you for your kind attention. best ciaos, and...happy modeling! bobo.
  8. hi nice people! very short: i am building a snow white's group b-24, dopey. i searched and searched but i'm just more confused: did the a/c have deicing boots or not? and, if it had, was it on all leading edges or just tail? thanks you all guys. best ciaos, bobo.
  9. Bobo1953

    Print Scale Decals?

    hi glynn. print scale are good decals as for colors and registry. as for the correctness i can remember a warning on a uh-1c chopper tail where " keep away" was written "keep awey"... also, on a va-176 ad-1 skyraider the kill score was less precise than some other brand's, and the wasp's grin was definitely wrong. all in all it's not bad stuff, but for the excessive thinness. as vg 33 says the film is too thin and due to surface tension the decal is, to say the least, whimsical, and in general very hard to handle as it curls, slips on the bottom of the paper support instead than on the model, and at worst -but not rare- it sort of rolls into a ball that will stick to itself and is very difficult to undo. i have two suggestions. no 1 is to use a lot of water -the more the better- when applying, as the decal tends to "relax" in a water drop, free of the weak forces' action. no 2, which i definitely recommend, is to shoot the whole sheet a good quantity of microscale's "liquid decal film" thinned about 50/50 or a little less with isopropylalcohol (also home alcohol can do, but it stinks) in order to get a bit thicker and more manageable decals. it cures in minutes and you can proceed with four to six coats almost in no time. at least, this is the result of my tests. to thicken more will need microsol to have decal to set in some spots, but ain't it the same with most of the decals on market? all in all you can make your own trials and see how much more thickness is better fit to your inclination. ah, i was forgetting to say that if you don't have an airbrush, the liquid film can be handbrushed without problems and, if you're careful enough, leaves no brush strokes as it is self-leveling a bit like future. let me say that printscale has an awesome catalog covering really a lot of subjects. were it not so, i very happily turn to some other brand. hope this helps. best ciaos, and happy modeling. bobo.
  10. Bobo1953

    Fiesler 156 Storch Academy 1/72

    thank you & happy modeling! best ciaos. bobo.
  11. Bobo1953

    TBM-3 Avenger 1/48 Accurate Miniatures: an account.

    thank you very much melk. actually this model has so much stuff locked inside that it's difficult to appreciate the great detail of this very "accurate" miniature! to be frank, thinking of having three of those "monsters" to build would scare me a bit, but perhaps it's just that i'm still a tad fatigued by the recent build. the most fatiguing thing was the instructions which leave a lot to be desired as...accuracy: one has to follow his/her own nose at some points, and a lot of experience and imagination! then, good luck with your TBMs and enjoy! again thanks, and ciao! happy modeling. bobo.
  12. hello gentlepeople. i am regaining the long time of absence from our forum. so please let me present to you a piece of work, a real piece of work. i mean the kit that accurate miniatures made in a very...accurate way. and eventually the outcome, which is something i would call brazenfacedly, a bit of a masterpiece. you will see some of the subassemblies before they're mated together. the mating of subassemblies was a piece of cake as compared to decryptation of the instructions to build them, where a simplified sketch of the parts depicted them vaguely connected by lines or arrows, a generic point to no particular place or detail. so you just had to sort out or guess where the parts would actually join in the end. i have belted quite something more than a few kits, but never found such fancy instructions, also because on the parts themselves in general you can't find tabs or pins or holes that an experienced modeler could read as "well, this and that must join here and there". just to figure it out, think of a drawing with an engine drawn aside a cowling, and a curved line going from the very body of the engine to the inside of the cowling: no pins or details depicted in order to understand where and how to mate the engine and the cowling. as another real example, i had planned to display the torpedo below the opened bomb bays doors. well, i had to give up the idea because there wasn't a cue as to where the torp bracings would have to be placed into he bomb bay. so i pragmatically glued the torpedo to its bracings and eventualy found out where these bracings would encounter the ceiling of the bomb bay, try-and-error dry-testing. but alas, the torpedo was now glued for good. although there are important hints in the accompaning text, one has to guess at his/her best how some subassemblies have to be built. a dramatic example for all, the ball turret, i assembled and disassembled it several times never finding the correct way to have all the parts mating. eventually i used tamiya extra thin cement as a sort of blowtorch in order to modify, bend, cut and eventually re-mold the parts until they did fit making sense. i succeeded by chance, but the work came near to ending in tears! well, this is the dark side of this kit; as i said before, accuracy and detail are matchless; perhaps i did find a comparable fine detail and fine molding in the tamiya's f4-u cockpit. this was a hiccups build because i had to put the works in stand by first waiting for the british airscale (u.s. navy) dials decal sheet, which i recommend to all. awesome! then i changed my mind about the markings, so i had to wait for the new set to be delivered. in the meantime, i started as a week-end build a minicraft 1/144 "a bit o'lace" b-17g. w-end build my pants! with all the colors, and framings and windows to be painted i ended up with an amount of masking tape and paper greater that the one i had to use for the 1/48 TBM! the new tbm decals were late in delivery, so i was about to start working on the outer half-left wing weathering when they arrived! then i packed-up the fortress with reverence and took up again on the avenger. i believe that thanks to the contribution of some of our members, i did overcome each and every secret color on the tbm; still, there's a light bulge on the top of the canopy i was unabe to find the color of. some said it was painted the same color of the canopy, and i have found a modeler who made a very precise job on this a/c and painted it red. nevertheless, i wasn't able to find a single pic of this lamp on the web. if anybody had a suggestion, it will be most welcome also because it would be no sweat to paint it any color. much talk for (almost) nothing, as i could paraphrase ole bill shakespeare... so here is the link to the google photo album of my TBM: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Y6MBnLbfUIx663P93 if somebody would have a look i will be happy and grateful. thanks to all anyway, and happy modeling. best ciaos, bobo.
  13. hello gentlepeople. i am regaining the long time of absence from our forum. so please let me present to you a piece of work, a real piece of work. i mean the kit that accurate miniatures made in a very...accurate way. and eventually the outcome, which is something i would call brazenfacedly, a bit of a masterpiece. you will see some of the subassemblies before they're mated together. the mating of subassemblies was a piece of cake as compared to decryptation of the instructions to build them, where a simplified sketch of the parts depicted them vaguely connected by lines or arrows, a generic point to no particular place or detail. so you just had to sort out or guess where the parts would actually join in the end. i have belted quite something more than a few kits, but never found such fancy instructions, also because on the parts themselves in general you can't find tabs or pins or holes that an experienced modeler could read as "well, this and that must join here and there". just to figure it out, think of a drawing with an engine drawn aside a cowling, and a curved line going from the very body of the engine to the inside of the cowling: no pins or details depicted in order to understand where and how to mate the engine and the cowling. as another real example, i had planned to display the torpedo below the opened bomb bays doors. well, i had to give up the idea because there wasn't a cue as to where the torp bracings would have to be placed into he bomb bay. so i pragmatically glued the torpedo to its bracings and eventualy found out where these bracings would encounter the ceiling of the bomb bay, try-and-error dry-testing. but alas, the torpedo was now glued for good. although there are important hints in the accompaning text, one has to guess at his/her best how some subassemblies have to be built. a dramatic example for all, the ball turret, i assembled and disassembled it several times never finding the correct way to have all the parts mating. eventually i used tamiya extra thin cement as a sort of blowtorch in order to modify, bend, cut and eventually re-mold the parts until they did fit making sense. i succeeded by chance, but the work came near to ending in tears! well, this is the dark side of this kit; as i said before, accuracy and detail are matchless; perhaps i did find a comparable fine detail and fine molding in the tamiya's f4-u cockpit. this was a hiccups build because i had to put the works in stand by first waiting for the british airscale (u.s. navy) dials decal sheet, which i recommend to all. awesome! then i changed my mind about the markings, so i had to wait for the new set to be delivered. in the meantime, i started as a week-end build a minicraft 1/144 "a bit o'lace" b-17g. w-end build my pants! with all the colors, and framings and windows to be painted i ended up with an amount of masking tape and paper greater that the one i had to use for the 1/48 TBM! the new tbm decals were late in delivery, so i was about to start working on the outer half-left wing weathering when they arrived! then i packed-up the fortress with reverence and took up again on the avenger. i believe that thanks to the contribution of some of our members, i did overcome each and every secret color on the tbm; still, there's a light bulge on the top of the canopy i was unabe to find the color of. some said it was painted the same color of the canopy, and i have found a modeler who made a very precise job on this a/c and painted it red. nevertheless, i wasn't able to find a single pic of this lamp on the web. if anybody had a suggestion, it will be most welcome also because it would be no sweat to paint it any color. much talk for (almost) nothing, as i could paraphrase ole bill shakespeare... so here is the link to the google photo album of my TBM: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Y6MBnLbfUIx663P93 if somebody would have a look i will be happy and grateful. thanks to all anyway, and happy modeling. best ciaos, bobo.
  14. hi everybody. i'm coming back not exately to business, which i never left, but to showing it off after a very busy period together with a p.c. fatal crash. so, i have just shown the storch i made while on a technical pause from the tu-95 project. first out, i must say that i never afforded a masking challenge like in this build. it looks odd for an all-metal a/c but the bulges and the radomes, as well as the props and the wings called for multiple, complex, masking. in the end there was more tape and paper than model! the revell 1/144 kit is big, really huge to handle, and it's a...revell of germany kit. poor on many sides, first of all in parts fit. lots of filling and cutting and sanding...which i hate. the technical break was due to the fact that although i supposed to have stocked up with enough russian paints, well, no none in the bunch seemed to me to match the landing gear blue-gray i saw in the web pictures. i think on britmodeler it was, i heard of a model master 2123 "russian underside blue" , and watching the pics, i was immediately convinced that this was the right color. but i had to chase it on e-bay and wait for it to be delivered... really, let me tell you: so far as i know and i have researched, there's no paint matching so well as the m.m. 2123. point is that it has been discontinued, it's an enamel, and there's no equivalent as an acrylic paint. nevertheless, if you're looking for the right color of the tu-95 gear, this is it. so i pinched my nose and used the nasty enamel. indeed in this project i had to resort to enamels and lacquers, as for the wheel green i had to use the mrp lacquer paint. both very good to shoot, but being used to water-based acrylics, stinky and a nightmare to clean airbrush and all... back to the model itself, i left props with their hairy leading edge stripe, and the undercarriage painted and ready aside and concentrated on the fuselage and wings. the fit of the turboprops nacelles leave a lot to be desired, and i worried that it would end up in a mess of plastic, cement and putty. nevertheless, with the job finished i must say that they look decent. i wondered a lot how to paint the wings leading edges, and i eventually choose the easier way: lifecolor gloss gun metal all along, and that was all. i don't say of the masking of the radomes etc., and other details. let me just say that it was a long and patientful job. so, here is the B-52 counterpart. a big beast, in her way fascinating, definitely the breed of a different technology and mindset. no way: the stratofortress speaks aloud a reassuring: america! if you want to have a look please follow this link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z0OkeoDloSTvZp8u2 thanks for watching. best ciaos, bobo.
  15. Bobo1953

    Tupolev TU-95 Bear D

    hi everybody. i'm coming back not exately to business, which i never left, but to showing it off after a very busy period together with a p.c. fatal crash. so, i have just shown the storch i made while on a technical pause from the tu-95 project. first out, i must say that i never afforded a masking challenge like in this build. it looks odd for an all-metal a/c but the bulges and the radomes, as well as the props and the wings called for multiple, complex, masking. in the end there was more tape and paper than model! the revell 1/144 kit is big, really huge to handle, and it's a...revell of germany kit. poor on many sides, first of all in parts fit. lots of filling and cutting and sanding...which i hate. the technical break was due to the fact that although i supposed to have stocked up with enough russian paints, well, no none in the bunch seemed to me to match the landing gear blue-gray i saw in the web pictures. i think on britmodeler it was, i heard of a model master 2123 "russian underside blue" , and watching the pics, i was immediately convinced that this was the right color. but i had to chase it on e-bay and wait for it to be delivered... really, let me tell you: so far as i know and i have researched, there's no paint matching so well as the m.m. 2123. point is that it has been discontinued, it's an enamel, and there's no equivalent as an acrylic paint. nevertheless, if you're looking for the right color of the tu-95 gear, this is it. so i pinched my nose and used the nasty enamel. indeed in this project i had to resort to enamels and lacquers, as for the wheel green i had to use the mrp lacquer paint. both very good to shoot, but being used to water-based acrylics, stinky and a nightmare to clean airbrush and all... back to the model itself, i left props with their hairy leading edge stripe, and the undercarriage painted and ready aside and concentrated on the fuselage and wings. the fit of the turboprops nacelles leave a lot to be desired, and i worried that it would end up in a mess of plastic, cement and putty. nevertheless, with the job finished i must say that they look decent. i wondered a lot how to paint the wings leading edges, and i eventually choose the easier way: lifecolor gloss gun metal all along, and that was all. i don't say of the masking of the radomes etc., and other details. let me just say that it was a long and patientful job. so, here is the B-52 counterpart. a big beast, in her way fascinating, definitely the breed of a different technology and mindset. no way: the stratofortress speaks aloud a reassuring: america! if you want to have a look please follow this link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z0OkeoDloSTvZp8u2 thanks for watching. best ciaos, bobo.
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