Bobo1953

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About Bobo1953

  • Rank
    bobo1953
  • Birthday 12/03/1953

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    ANGERA, (VARESE) NORTHERN ITALY
  • Interests
    -military aircrafts...and modeling them!
    -music: audiophile

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  1. Hi madhatter. I know nothing about jap camo but you can try to convert mr. Colour to available paints. The chart's just not much up to date: http://www.paint4models.com HTH. Have a nice day and... happy modeling! Bobo.
  2. hi phantom riveter. here on the lago maggiore, italy, we have seldom a whole week of "hot sun light" -they call it sunny italy... secondly, do you have one pane or two vacuum panes windows? because i have the second type, and this might be one of the reasons why it doesn't work. finally, i was speaking of old "applied", on model decals that have become yellow 'cause i, at the time, did not use coat finishing. one pays for his sins... you understand that even having the right sun and the right panes, one cannot sort of "roast" the models so that sunlight can reach every part. this is why i was wondering of a remedy for decals that yellowed on the model. thank you for your contribution. ciao, and happy modeling! bobo.
  3. hi harvy. have a look at this link: https://www.cybermodeler.com/aircraft/su-25/su-25_all.shtml i don't know the subject, but maybe you can deduce the period from the data. HTH. happy modeling!. bobo.
  4. got it jari. not knowing what to look after really, the only difference i saw in the pics was the presence/absence of the blast panels. sorry; much clearer now, but to this i got no answer... ciao...and happy modeling! bobo.
  5. hi jari. tonight (your afternoon) we're having a lot of exchanges. :-) look: i have always thought that the horizontal panels above the gun muzzles were to avoid cannon smoke etc. ingestion from the air intakes. as you can see the fuselage immediately around the cannon is fouled. i have taken note of the pg. 3 par. 7 of the paper but i'm not quite sure that the horizontal panels can help strenghtening the fuselage or intakes...in that position, in my humble opinion, they were just against the cannon blast. cm'on guys & gals: join the argument...! ciao. bobo.
  6. @Jim:hope that they will issue it soon! enjoy! @jari: thank you jari. i do perfectly agree. but what jim was looking for was an rf-101 vietnam era, which resulted to be a little different, i.e. white bays and legs. friendly cheers to both. bobo.
  7. you're welcome jim! the legs, in these pics, actually look lile a light gray/dirty white, but the wells are definitely white. which makes me think that the legs too were originally white. right? best cheers, and ciao! bobo.
  8. as i have a su-34 to build in the future, thanks to your input, preventively i have made a morning-long research on the net. well. there is this link that goes through all camo patterns of sukhoi family, interesting, but no reference to model colors: http://www.sukhoi.mariwoj.pl/su-30-ru-32.htm the only paint expressly named after russian eggplant grey is the russian-made Mister Paint MRP 205 "eggplant dark gray". as it is a new brand it is not listed in the bible of all comparison charts, "the ultimate model paint conversion chart", neither have i found any other kind of conversion from mrp and gunze acqueous (mr. hobby). as for myself i would go for the russian product that seems to be rather dependable, and water/(lacquer?)-based too: http://www.hmhobbies.co.uk/mrp-205-eggplant-dark-grey-su-32-su-34-30ml.html HTH...and happy modeling! bobo.
  9. hi jim. i'm building the one-oh-wonder of revell, so i'm deep into research too. i'd rather say that the wells and doors inner face are just the same, zinc chromate (interior green f.s. 34151) and red f.s. 31302 (the best match to me is humbrol acryilic #60 fire red), respectively. i deem that the legs are white, as it looks very likely in this pic: and also, as i have seen in an interesting series of pictures you can find here: http://media.photobucket.com/user/David_Waples/media/F101B/IMG_1991.jpg.html?filters[term]=f-101b&filters[primary]=images&filters[secondary]=videos&sort=1&o=2 in the latter the legs aren't the right color, but have been painted white later when the bird was restored just because white had become standard. sometimes the restorers do a hell of a job and eventually fall on trivial accidents... ...or else they're right for a very late f-101, this i don't know for sure. hope this helps. have a great week-end (on my side of the pond half of it is already gone...). cheers, and...happy modeling! bobo.
  10. oh wow!!! i thought that i had a problem with arc...even contacted by e-mai a moderator to see what wasn't worknig in my account... lol!!! it was everybody's problem then! lol!!! ouwowowow...here i am relieved! AND SO NOW... I CAN THANK PERSONALLY ALL THE GREAT PEOPLE WHO CONTRIBUTED TO SOLVE ALL MY F-101B COLORS PROBLEMS! THANK YOU GUYS! THANKS A LOT. WE'RE A GREAT GANG OF GENTLEMEN! CIAO! BOBO.
  11. thank you very much chris. i believe that provided that there were no differences between cf-101 and f-101, this is an absolute evidence, and is in line with the other conributions. best greetings, and ...happy modeling! bobo.
  12. hi rick and john. i can't but thank you for your definitive and exhaustive answer. now i understand why most of the models i've seen online had interior green wells, but you know, when drendel is quoted it's better to be careful... it is also of great help the indication for the airbrake bays where i really hadn't a cue. again, many thanks...and happy modeling! best cheers, bobo.
  13. hi everybody guys and gals. i needd to know exactely what color am i to paint the interior of gear wells, including airbrakes, in an f-101b voodoo. i googled a lot but got no pics of real '101b. red insides for the doors and airbrakes given for granted, i've seen red as well as interior green insides of the wells in the models. seems that lou drendel gives white as the right color. so what am i to do with a 60th f.i.s. f-101b in 1965? thank you in advance. cheers and happy modeling. bobo.
  14. hi prowler. i am sorry to contradict your position, but my experience with the sun exposition of yellowed decals is a total failure. and i live in sunny italy...;-) it may be due to the fact that i have double-pane windows... neverthelss, we tried to replicate the phisical conditins of sun exposure in a lab controlled environment and it was just the same. i have also heard that even if and when yellowing vanishes, it will come back in a short time. this is why i am looking for the industry to produce a something that would surely and definitively take away the yellow tint. such a product, if effective, could work also on applied decals... i believe that we should insist asking industry a solution (litterally...:-) ) best cheers. bobo.
  15. hi everybody. i have recently dusted off some of my late twenties' builds. they're not bad, i guess, but as by then i didn't use -nor i believe there were such products in my country (italy)- clear finishes, the decals, big and small, have become heavly yellowish, and the film supposed to be transparent, is a yellow-brownish plate around stencils etc. with the industry always in search of new products for modelers, i wonder if someone could come out with something more realistic than the airy-fairy story of sun exposition for decal sheets and /or some specific product for in-place decals in general... thanks for reading and, in case, giving an answer. best greetings, bobo.