Bobo1953

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About Bobo1953

  • Rank
    bobo1953
  • Birthday 12/03/1953

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    ANGERA, (VARESE) NORTHERN ITALY
  • Interests
    -military aircrafts...and modeling them!
    -music: audiophile

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  1. hi rocketdrvr. i have made the academy a-10 "a" and i loved that kit. nicely made, and it builds well. great decals. nevertheless, i had to get the weapons from hasegawa sets as the ones in the kit were quite approximate. italeri's i didn't build, but i hear it's a very good a-10 in both "a" and "c" versions. the panoplia is limited in numbers, but variated and nicely done. visit: http://shop.italeri.com/Products/21766-1376-gulf-war-a-10-ac-thunderbolt-ii.aspx click on the sprues etc. small pics to have an expanded view. you find herebelow, my academy a-10a with hasegawa weaponry. hope it helps. have a happy modeling. ciao. bobo.
  2. thank you very much darren. now you're two to one... :-) and your direct testimony from the museum seems to be definitive. ok: so be it fiberglass which, as i know it, is usually from beige to hazelnut in color. will check in the rlm what's more near. thanks, guys. it's great to be in this community! best ciaos. bobo.
  3. hello jari. again, thanks. it looks like the subject is quite attractive to you too... i'm sorry: the fibreglass panel is the triangular beige one just aft the canopy? well, it doesn't look faded to me: it's the normal fiberglass color i know. the panel on the b-66 instead is too dark to be raw fiberglass: it must have been painted (?). i didn't find many b-66 pics from below. in the following one the paneling is different from yours, but is definitely painted black: %follows 'cause i can't find a way to overtake this 0,1 mb limit on arc... % in this one again, look at the yellow in the comet motif on the fin, and at the one on the back radome...quite similar huh? i'd hardly say that it's the faded "beige" panel on your cf-104 i don't want to be insisting, but the fibreglass theory, though well grounded, seems to me to conflict with the other evidences... to the next... :-) ciao. bobo.
  4. thank you jari. raw fiberglass was a possibility i din't think of. if it proves to be that, i really have no idea of which colors to mix together to get a fibreglass tint because you know, fibreglass isn't only a color, but much of it is in the grain. nevertheless, i can experiment with this and in case i succeed, i will publish the how-to... i believe that no paint brand makes the specific -and realistic- fibreglass color. nevertheles, jari, the more i look at those pics, the more i get convinced that it's real yellow of some sort. the last you sent, for instance. look: even in the shadow it still brings in something about a yellow hue. fibreglass wouldn't "glow" so yellow... at any rate, i'm almost sure -it's already painted- that i will leave the traditional black as there are other black spots about the tail and i think it's goodlooking. on the other side, exactely for the same reason, a yellow spot could be stylish with black around, wouldn't it? really, i thank you for your quite on-target contribuiton, but i would like to hear something more on the subject. ciao. ...and happy modeling: you doing some? cheers, bobo.
  5. Hi everybody. This time is the one million $ quiz... Doing research on-line for my 1/72 b-66 -the boomer- project i have noticed that in the pics the rear gun radar dome looks quite often yellowish. Now, devoid of a good close-up, who knows what the real color might be? yellow indeed? Never saw a yellow radome... Or rather radome tan which may look yellowish in the old and not very clear late fifties photos? (Gosh, nonetheless it looks to me as if it was really yellow...). Thank you for your answers :-) Best cheers and...happy modeling! Bobo.
  6. thank you shorty. i knew that it is the film supporting the decal which yellows. in fact, there is no glue involved in the vac-u-formed canopies yellowing. whatever it be, it seems to be a no way out problem when you say that even once "rejuvenated", decals will yellow again. it depends in how much time. also, if you coat with a clear finish the model, it shoud prevent the decal from yellowing again, i suppose. is it right? this is particularily important to me as i have some models that i made in my youth when i didn't use the finish coating. provided that they wouldn't melt down under an uv lamp, it would be wonderful to restore the decals and then spray the clear finish. what do you think of this? thank you in advance. best greetings. bobo.
  7. hi everybody. today is june 6: the D-Day anniversary. this recurrence is to me as a sort of the american memorial day. it is the day when history changed forever, and when the determination and courage of the allies began sweeping away nazifascism from europe. perhaps too much time has passed, and the better day that was dawning that morning, perhaps is by now in its twilight. nevertheless, and all today's miseries notwithstanding, that day was a great day, and i hope that its spirit is still inspiring for those who are still able to remember it. honor to the fallen from all sides. ciao. bobo.
  8. hi everybody. now that the revell''s 1/72 F-101B voodoo is finished and sitting at her place in my shelf, i think it fair to publicly give my thanks to PETE (pete), NIKI (niki4703) and HARRY (sten8) for their generosity. they all contributed in the making of this model gifting me each one with parts of the decal sheet, as the original was unusable. thank you my friends, you're great guys, of the breed that lingers here on arc. most gratefully, your friend bobo.
  9. thank you phantom! but you have built so many vintage kits in one year? really, phantom, i'm hungry to know what hawk vintage kits you have built......and if i may dare to ask, watching some pics of them... as i said i'm a nostalgic...i started modeling in my childhood and i have great memories of those kits and of how i used to play with them once assembled. i have already posted a "oldies but goldies" on the revell's neptune and mariner, and i have some others to go too. it seems that i'm the joy of alan bussie, the owner of "oldmodelkits". he's happy when i build a more or less old kit, and sometimes, i get a few from him. nevetheless i'm not a vintage buff. really, i like to build new kits, but if chance permits, i love to build again some of the kits that were most impressive when i was very young. thanks for watching, and if you please, i will be happy to have a look to your vintage hawks. all my best, and...happy modeling! ciao. bobo.
  10. hello guys and gals. today i want to present you with the 2012 build of a 1958 vintage hawk T-33. i am uploading all of my model's pictures on google photo albums, and as the upload process is quite long, it's taking some time. yesterday i uploaded the t-33, and seeing it in the pics -although i have her on the shelf- surprised me again. actually, leaving my better or lesser skills apart, i believe that it is still a very decent model even nowadays, so much that i'm sure it's worth daring to submit it to you, and with some pride. i'm a nostalgic, and the very hawk box sends shivers down my spine... the decals were not usable and were made anew by a friend who unfortunately has left this kind of very useful job. he used a hi resolution scan of the originals. i believe that the yellow is a bit "acid", and the insigna blue has a metallic hue, but in general, it's a nice job he made. here's the link: https://goo.gl/photos/qiJexUc8mDNDGD2b8 hope you enjoy, and have a great modeling! ciao. bobo.
  11. merci beaucoup! salut. bobo.
  12. Thank you Sebastian! Well to begin with the front gear well was 2.5 mm. too long as compared to the slot in the fuselage. Cut and sand and curse. Secondly the cockpit consoles had no point of reference to place the i.p.s; and they should intercept the scope an sunblind that are molded together with the fuselage! Furthermore it would have never slipped through the closed fuselage -as per instructions- as the seats wouldn't pass through. Thence i had to glue the cockpit tub on the left fuse and place the gear well in front as it served as a base for the cockpit. Then i glued the fuses halves withdrawing the front well that otherwise would have been a fragile impingement for the remainder of the build. third came the weapons tray which again was toughly oversized, thence cut, sand and curse again. I cursed a lot, but succeeded in preserving the revolving feature. Last but not lrast the f*****g instructions showed the beautiful stylized bird decal to be placed quite low so that -i realized too late- it covered the identification stripes. The same gor the flashes emblem on the tail. Fortunately i had found a spare decal bird so i could microsol away the wron one an position the new properly. As for the tail...i said to myself that too much is too much and it's ok like this... That'smy story sebastian. Really, a bad girl of a kit. Shame on Revell. :-( Thanks and ciao! Bobo.
  13. hi everybody. here comes my much-toiled-for-but-it was-worth-that revell 1/72 voodoo, first (2001) issue. a bad girl of a kit goddamnrevell, but other than succeeding in finishing it, i am most of all proud to have been able by sanding and cutting and (much) swearing to have got the revolving weapons tray feature working... here's the link: https://goo.gl/photos/SngycPifrx5GqTnz8 have a look, you're welcome! the same for any comment or suggestion. thank you and happy modeling! bobo.
  14. Hi madhatter. I know nothing about jap camo but you can try to convert mr. Colour to available paints. The chart's just not much up to date: http://www.paint4models.com HTH. Have a nice day and... happy modeling! Bobo.
  15. hi phantom riveter. here on the lago maggiore, italy, we have seldom a whole week of "hot sun light" -they call it sunny italy... secondly, do you have one pane or two vacuum panes windows? because i have the second type, and this might be one of the reasons why it doesn't work. finally, i was speaking of old "applied", on model decals that have become yellow 'cause i, at the time, did not use coat finishing. one pays for his sins... you understand that even having the right sun and the right panes, one cannot sort of "roast" the models so that sunlight can reach every part. this is why i was wondering of a remedy for decals that yellowed on the model. thank you for your contribution. ciao, and happy modeling! bobo.