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Bobo1953

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Everything posted by Bobo1953

  1. ok: as seen in the pics i perfectly agree with niels. it's the same green you had on the '104 nose. but on the starfighter it was glossy, and the best match i was able to find is f.s. 14108. sure the pics are very tricky: the difference of light makes changes like the one between the first two and the last photograph, where it looks matt, and definitely tending to O.D. for my starfighter i was definitely satisfied with lifecolor UA 086, f.s. 14108. happy modeling! ciao. bobo.
  2. sorry, but 34079 is the "dark green" used in the s.e.a. camo; unless you're doing the 'nam version with this camo pattern, it wouldn't fit elsewhere. ciao! bobo.
  3. hi billS. i haven't seen the kh rf-101, but if the anti glare looks green, well i can grant you that, sorry, but it must be one of the infinite shades of the elusive O.D. be it f.s. 34087 or 34088 or O.D. ANA613... personally, for thet plane i would choose the f.s. 34088, but i should do some research about before telling it for sure. hope this helps. best ciaos, bobo.
  4. thank you for your appreciation, guys. i'm flattered...😎 actually, dnl42, when provided i prefer to leave the transparencies clear. to me they look more natural, you can see the light through them, the interior is not more complex than a brush stroke of interior green or similars, and you still can have something to show -ideally- inside. i remember the scratch building of the cockpit with seats etc, on an 1/144 c-130a, or the realistic, though impressionistic, sight of red points of the headrests through the windows of a same scale sr-71. think that minicraft b-24 offers
  5. hello guys and gals. some time ago i submitted the 1/144 b-17g "a bit o' lace" and shared with you the idea of building a true fleet of ww ii bombers in their so variated liveries and nose art. well, the idea has become a real project and i have built to this day one b-24d, "dopey" from the "snow white and the 7 dwarfes" sqn., two b-17g and one b-17f converted from a "g". it seems impossible but in this scale you can find only "g"s, so i tried and, i believe, succeeded in transforming a "g" with a little improvisation and scratch bulding into the "f" "memphis belle". the tw
  6. dear greg and steve, thank you for your contribution. actually, i must agree with steve as though i can't tell from a b/w pic an overexposed o.d. from an underexposed desert pink, for sure this dopey is from another a/c than the lybian one of the 98th. at 98th, this nose art was done first on an a/c that was burned as steve says, and it was a slim dopey with a gothic font writing; the second had a bigger and better drawn dopey with the same writing. so, i'm sorry for the pain you took getting all those links, greg, but' i'm aftraid that it's not the "right" dopey. on the ki
  7. hi nice people! very short: i am building a snow white's group b-24, dopey. i searched and searched but i'm just more confused: did the a/c have deicing boots or not? and, if it had, was it on all leading edges or just tail? thanks you all guys. best ciaos, bobo.
  8. hi glynn. print scale are good decals as for colors and registry. as for the correctness i can remember a warning on a uh-1c chopper tail where " keep away" was written "keep awey"... also, on a va-176 ad-1 skyraider the kill score was less precise than some other brand's, and the wasp's grin was definitely wrong. all in all it's not bad stuff, but for the excessive thinness. as vg 33 says the film is too thin and due to surface tension the decal is, to say the least, whimsical, and in general very hard to handle as it curls, slips on the bottom of the paper support in
  9. thank you & happy modeling! best ciaos. bobo.
  10. thank you very much melk. actually this model has so much stuff locked inside that it's difficult to appreciate the great detail of this very "accurate" miniature! to be frank, thinking of having three of those "monsters" to build would scare me a bit, but perhaps it's just that i'm still a tad fatigued by the recent build. the most fatiguing thing was the instructions which leave a lot to be desired as...accuracy: one has to follow his/her own nose at some points, and a lot of experience and imagination! then, good luck with your TBMs and enjoy! again thanks, and cia
  11. hello gentlepeople. i am regaining the long time of absence from our forum. so please let me present to you a piece of work, a real piece of work. i mean the kit that accurate miniatures made in a very...accurate way. and eventually the outcome, which is something i would call brazenfacedly, a bit of a masterpiece. you will see some of the subassemblies before they're mated together. the mating of subassemblies was a piece of cake as compared to decryptation of the instructions to build them, where a simplified sketch of the parts depicted them vaguely connected by lines or
  12. hello gentlepeople. i am regaining the long time of absence from our forum. so please let me present to you a piece of work, a real piece of work. i mean the kit that accurate miniatures made in a very...accurate way. and eventually the outcome, which is something i would call brazenfacedly, a bit of a masterpiece. you will see some of the subassemblies before they're mated together. the mating of subassemblies was a piece of cake as compared to decryptation of the instructions to build them, where a simplified sketch of the parts depicted them vaguely connected by lines or
  13. hi everybody. i'm coming back not exately to business, which i never left, but to showing it off after a very busy period together with a p.c. fatal crash. so, i have just shown the storch i made while on a technical pause from the tu-95 project. first out, i must say that i never afforded a masking challenge like in this build. it looks odd for an all-metal a/c but the bulges and the radomes, as well as the props and the wings called for multiple, complex, masking. in the end there was more tape and paper than model! the revell 1/144 kit is big, really huge to handle
  14. hi everybody. i'm coming back not exately to business, which i never left, but to showing it off after a very busy period together with a p.c. fatal crash. so, i have just shown the storch i made while on a technical pause from the tu-95 project. first out, i must say that i never afforded a masking challenge like in this build. it looks odd for an all-metal a/c but the bulges and the radomes, as well as the props and the wings called for multiple, complex, masking. in the end there was more tape and paper than model! the revell 1/144 kit is big, really huge to handle
  15. hi everybody. it's been quite a long time since the last time i posted on arc. i'm back to you with the german utility a/c of ww ii i have been building while waiting for the colors for tha TU-95 Bear h i had on my workbench to be delivered. i actually wasn't a week-end modeling as the academy kit is nicely complex and the camo livery i coosed was a bit of a problem. this is -one of- rommel's transports, and i had to get the decals on e-bay from a heller kit. they had rather yellowed and, to my surprise, the light-therapy was eventually successful before i had to scan the s
  16. hi everybody. it's been quite a long time since the last time i posted on arc. i'm back to you with the german utility a/c of ww ii i have been building while waiting for the colors for tha TU-95 Bear h i had on my workbench to be delivered. i actually wasn't a week-end modeling as the academy kit is nicely complex and the camo livery i coosed was a bit of a problem. this is -one of- rommel's transports, and i had to get the decals on e-bay from a heller kit. they had rather yellowed and, to my surprise, the light-therapy was eventually successful before i had to scan the s
  17. southwestforests you be blessed!...great, really neatly on to the target, WHAM! what can i say more than express my deep gratitude for your help, a help so much to the point? then: THANK YOU!!! best ciaos. bobo.
  18. hi everybody. i am in the process of finishing this enthusing but arduous 1/48 accurate miniatures TBM. as the build did reallly challenge me a lot, i want to go to the extremes with "accuracy". there are three small bulges some 1,9 cm inboard of the wingtips and a third on the fuselage just back of the ball turret. they patently look like lights of some sort, but though hard i searched the web, i wasn't able to find a single picture where they were represented with a certain level of reliability. in some pics and light conditions the one on the left wing looks like
  19. a truely fine and great job richardL. i believe that you gained the thanks and reverence of all of the arc members. btw, this part of your research supports my own philosophy to use matt paints and then coat the model with satin or, if a glossy look is indispensable, a semi-gloss clear finish. this is my credo for 1/144 up to 1/48 scales; i don't build in 1/32...because i have no place enough...and at any rate, although fascinating for the degree of detailing you can get to, dunno, but such big models cease somehow to be in the innocent and "impressionistic" realm of modeling to
  20. yep, rex, for my modeling budget, really out of reach... ciao. bobo.
  21. thanks richardL, although this is bad news: if i were to buy all the chips i do and will need, i'd have to be a millionaire! ok. pity that. it was nice to think that i had found eventually a way to the F.S. chips...which are not cheap...(pardon the pun). again, thank you, and...happy modeling! ciao. bobo.
  22. hi. sorry if i go a bit out of subject. i went to the "individual color chip" link richardL attached to his second post, but i'm rather perplexed: do i take it right that the cost for each 3x5 chip is u.s.$ 35?!!! can someone confirm this to me or, preferably, disconfirm? thanks. best ciaos and happy modeling! bobo.
  23. hi robert the flying dutchman, and welcome to our obsessive-compulsive community! here is the place where almost every question on planes and their modeling finds an answer, but this you know already as you have been a follower since the last couple of years. best wishes for your new house and counry! hope to hear from you soon with your phantoms stories and pictures of your models... best ciaos, bobo.
  24. my pleasure, swash. well, if they float away from the paper support within 30'', i'm afraid that there's something wrong with the whole lot. the sheet may be defective; for instance they can have received a too little quantity of glue in the process of the production. at this point i'm not sure that the microscale liquid decal film treatment could avoid this early separation from the paper, but: either you ask academy a replcement sheet, or you work with what you have. in the second case, as you will have to mess up with each and every decal (!) the liquid film treatment
  25. hi. first out i don't know solvaset; it's not available in my country. though, i know what it is. now. did you use solvaset by default or you tried to tame the reluctant decal with it after it curled up? actually i never had such problems especially with academy decals, bit i throw an hypotesis, i.e. that solvaset reacted somehow with the decal and softened it too much. then it curled. now the decal has no more glue left to stick to the i.p. i suggest that you dip the decal into a cup of water and leave there floating free to see what happens. if it straightens up
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