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Hello all, Hopefully I can put this into words properly... When installing the Aires cockpit set on a 1/48 HAS F-18 kit, does the cockpit tub and coaming sit flush with the upper edge of the top fuselage half, or do they butt up against the lip moulded into the HAS fuselage. Ie-The Aires instructions show the kit coaming as needing to be removed, but should this cut continue with the removal of the overhang as well? If so, once the Aires set is installed, would you suggest painting, washing, drybrushing as normal. Then align install (with epoxy) so that it is flush with upper edge of fuse

Yes, here's a couple of links that I hope will be of help: http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/index.php?c...t=2a&page=1 and: http://www.automobilminiaturen.de/index.ph...8e58c6885fb9a81 It's a bit difficult to order directly, though not impossible, from this German company. They do not accept credit cards, and thay have expensive shipping rates as well. That said, you can order several of the lines carried by this company (they are also the proprietors of 'Scale Production') from this US retailer: http://www.stradasports.com/

Hello all, Has anyone ordered directly from the Aviation Workshop website? As it is a new site, and still a WIP, many of the sections still simply state 'coming soon', so information is incomplete. I would like to order some Model Alliance sheets, and have e-mailed them twice, but have not received a response on either occasion. Specifically, what I need to know is how does one go about placing an order (simply e-mail a list of wants and wait for a response?), and what are the postage fees (in my case: to Canada)? I don't think they are included in the price of the sheets, but again, this

Hello, Now, this is something i understand as cars are my 'regular' builds while I am new to aircraft. First off, use a proper clear coat. GSI Creos' 'Mr Top Coat' is very high quality stuff if you prefer aerosol. in fact, It's almost as good as this excellent product: http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_inf...products_id=797 Truly excellent stuff!! The only caution is, if you use 'Zero Paints' WEAR A PROPER RESIRATOR as they contain isocyanates. Very nasty stuff if you do not use a mask. And, BTW, the proper 'NIOSH 95' respirators are readily available at auto paint supply retailer

Thank you, Danse and Dave. I applied a couple of wet coats of Future so I think I airbrushed enough. At one point, I couldn't tell how much I sprayed on the tail and was worried about having it run (it didn't). The model was glossy, so i think I sprayed enough. Dave, I did spray over a primer that is meant for use with automotive lacquers, so the primer can handle any 'heat' Alclad can give it. Here is the link. BTW, this retailer supplies paints mainly matched to specific cars, bikes/race teams, but they do offer some excellent 'generic' paints and primers that apply to all modellers.

Thank you, Joe. It must be a case of my having one of the bad Alclad bottles because like you said, varsol should not have attacked the surface. Oh well,... Michael

Hello all, I realize that this will go down as a rookie mistake, and I will be able to look back and laugh. But, I'm not laughing now. I am working on a NMF (bare metal) F104. I sprayed Alclad (a week or two ago), and did all the detail painting. Today, I applied Future to seal the Alclad to protect it from a panel wash, and let it dry for approx 12 hrs. So far, so good. I applied the wash to about 1/3 of the model using Windsor and Newton's Payne Gray mixed with their own brand of thinner (Linseed oil, I think). Applied it, let the wash run into the panel lines, recesses, etc. About

Hello all, Having just picked up a package from the local post office containing a couple of 1/48 FreMs Aermacchi MB-339's, I'm curious as to whatever happened to this company? After having released the MB-339 kit in a couple of versions, they simply faded away. I remember seeing initial drawings of a 1/48 F-104S on their site, but sadly, it never was released. A visit to their website now simply states that it is being updated. They showed great promise, but sad to say that they seem to be gone for good. BTW, thank you Pac Models for excellent service, and 'j-fever' (ARC member) for ref

Thank you very much, Steve. I will see it in a few seconds, but hopefully my chosen avatar will be displayed. It seemed to load OK... Cheers, Michael

I'm sorry to belabour this subject... I have uploaded my intended avatar to photobucket. I have resized it to 80X80, mad sure it is one of the accepted file types (jpeg in my case), but still no avatar love. When I go to my 'controls' and input the url (I have made sure not to duplicate the 'http://' part), here is the error message I'm getting: Sorry, but the URL you entered for your avatar was incorrectly formatted or the link is not valid. What am I doing incorrectly? BTW, I have tried doing a search to try to find the cure myself, but to no avail. Thanks in advance for any assistanc

In keeping with the spirit of the original question, what metallic shades are best suited for the aft section of the fuselage as well as the section on the tail that is a different shade?

Hello all, I will be watching this thread with interest as I'm working on a similar project: an F-104 in natural metal for a colleague's father that flew one during the 1960's for the Taiwan Air Force. If at all possible, please let me know how you made out. I will try to do the same, as I hope to primer and paint mine this weekend somewhere between the Sebring 12hrs sportscar and Australian Grand prix races. Michael

which scale were you thinking of doing? Sorry, I didn't specify, did I? I will be building in 1/48. Thank you for all your help, gentlemen. I will definately be checking the links and probably ordering a set of decals when I get home tonight. To repay the favour: anyone thinking of building any racing cars or motorcycles (Motogp), and needs reference material you know who to contact. Michael

Hello all, A complete newbie question, so if it's very elementary to you, I ask for your patience. I'm getting ready to start putting together the items required for my next project, and I am considering doing an F-16 as leased by the AMI since 2001, I believe. Anyway, what variant (A,B,C, Block??) is a suitable base kit in 1/48, and are there any decal sheets currently available because, of course, being able to build one will depend on available markings. Again, please indulge me on my what may be a very elementary question, but I am inexperienced when it comes to aviation modelling, th

Thank you for the pic, and the info re: Tiger Wings. Unfortunately, it's all I have to work with, so I will have to make do ("bisogna arrangiarsi"-as Italians say). I will keep my eyes open for alternate decals. however. Thanks again, and all the best. Ciao, Michael

Hello all, First, a quick intro: My name is Michael and I live in the 'center of the universe', or Toronto, Canada (fellow Canucks will get it...) I am 41 and like many of you I'm sure, I have been building, though recently "buying" is more apt, models since I was very young. My main interest is automotive racing: F1, sportscars, and motorcycles (MotoGp opener this weekend in Qatar under the lights-Go Ducati!). Every once in a while, however, I get the itch to build aircraft, and so it is now. I have the honour of working with the son of a gentleman who was an F-104 pilot during the 1960

Yes, indeed, as 'C-Breeze' said-thanks very much. Two questions: do you simply add a drop or two of white to the airbrush cup of clear flat coat, or what is the ratio of white to clear? Also, is it necessary to thin this top coat further (for whatever reason), or OK to leave at the usual ratios? Thanks again, Michael

Hi all, Does anyone apply a light 'mist' coat a very-thinned light colour paint on top surfaces to achieve a well-weathered look? If so: what ratio do you suggest one thins this 'light colour'? What should the actual colour be: lightened base colour(s) of the subject, or is flat white better? When is it best to apply this: immediately after decals have been applied, or after the final matt coat has been laid down (I imagine the former is correct)? Thanks to those that take the time to respond. Michael

Thanks very much for evryone's reply. Seems the general consensus is 24hrs, and 48hrs is even better. Though I really like the 20 minutes wait time best... Makes sense though if you think about it: after all, when used as a floor polish (c'mon: now who does that?), a quick drying time would be important. In any case, I am content to wait 1-2 days. Now, off to apply some decals (day off from work!) <_< Thanks again everyone, Michael

Hi everyone, + Well, the header just about says it all. I applied Future on my current project last night. How much time is sufficient before I can go ahead and apply the decals? BTW-Decals are applied before any washes, correct? Sorry about the rookie question-I am building my first aircraft model in many years. With auto and motorbike kits, the clearcoat is the final step (unless one polishes the clearcoat). TIA to those that respond. Cheers, Michael

Bilkeau and Chuck1945: thanks for your help, gents. I appreciate your input, and it seems that, like almost everything else, practice is the key: there is no one definative way of painting the squiggly lines. BTW, I should have been more specific, but I also use an Iwata HP- (BC-I think) airbrush. Bilkeau, interesting point about removing the cap-I don't know if it is possible to spray without it on my airbrush, but I will give it a go. I think I will also stop in at my local art supply store and see if an even finer needle and tip are available. I also like your idea, Chuck 1945, about

Hello, OK, how about this, then: Can anyone provide a link to where I can read about painting squggly lines on WWII Luftwaffe aircraft? Michael

Hello everyone, While hard at work on my Hasegawa Typhoon, I have been practicing trying to reproduce the 'squiggly' line camo patterns seen on WWII German aircraft on a piece of plastic card. While verycool, it is also pretty intimidating (for me, anyway). I either end up with lines that are too thick (OK-back off on the airbrush), or different depth of paint when I make a curve. I would appreciate hearing from those that are comfortable with painting this pattern.What are your techniques? How is it possible to achieve consistent line width (a problem I encountered when I ended one and t

Hi all, I am well committed now on my first aircraft kit in over a decade (1/48 RCAF 440 Sqn. 'Tiffie') and things are going quite well. Perhaps a bit optimistic, but I may send in some pics when I am done. Looking down the road, however, I am a bit at a loss as to how to realistically, and subtly, replicate the various scratches and nicks on a/c of that era. I have practiced using a Berol Prismacolor but the effect is not what I hoped for. I like the idea of painting an area silver, and tearing the paint off using tape after painting the camo colours, but I fear this may remove too much