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  1. The Redstone launcher is now available for purchase.
  2. Solo7

    F-4A Phantom Sparrow Missiles

    Mingwin, Thank you, in the photo you found I couldn't be sure. But 2 set of eyes are better than 1. I agree with you I don't see any dummy missiles in the rear recessed positions.
  3. I would like to ask a question of the Phantom experts out there. I am doing a 1/72 F-4a Phantom from China Lake Weapons Center (sn# 143389a 4th Phantom built) that launched a unsuccessful orbital rocket called Caleb under the code name "Project Hi-Hoe" in 1962. I have managed to get a few photos of this Phantom & have a 3D printed Caleb rocket to use. I am using a Hasegawa 4-FB kit (I know the canopy is higher in the F-4Bs than the straight canopy of the F-4A). Heres the question now that you know what I am modeling. The Phantom had 4 sparrow missiles recessed into the bottom fuselage. When operating without live missiles (like launching a Caleb) the Phantom had dummy sparrows installed to help with aerodynamics of the fuselage. The photos I see of the China Lake Phantom show dummy Sparrows without fins installed at lease in the front two spots. Do you think the dummy sparrows are in all four recessed locations?
  4. Bradjett just told me he has a new batch of X-43 with Pegasus booster resin model kits that will be going up for sale on ebay. The kit is 1/72 scale and the resin casings are done by Blab Models. This is the same company that does the castings for Fantastic Plastic and the resin parts are the best! I have Bradjett's X-33 model kit (also available on ebay) & its free of air holes & the parts fit together very well. The pour plugs are also located in good areas & easily removed. The kit comes with decals printed on a ALPS printer (see graphic) and a CD disk with photos & information on the X-43. So keep checking Ebay when the models are posted (they are not up yet) , they should go fast since they are a limited run. https://www.ebay.com/usr/bradjett?_trksid=p2053788.m1543.l2754
  5. Horizon on their Facebook page has a graphic of the different versions you can build with the upcoming Redstone missile kit. No release date yet for the kit but it should release in 2018. https://www.facebook.com/HorizonModels/
  6. habu2, I counted the black bars on the pre-built Dragon Redstone & I count 6 pairs, the Horizon has 8 pairs. There is a interesting note here that I should share with you about the "Roll Pattern" decal on the Horizon. If you look at the decal sheet you will see decal 3 & 4 are for overlap in case you need them. I needed them, so I think you will need them also. The roll pattern decal (#1) also had inspection doors outlined in gray. I didn't plan this well enough & part of the gray line was obscured by the overlap decal (my fault). If you plan it right after you put on the main roll pattern decal (#1) you can cover the white bar instead of the black bar. I did not count the bars in NASA photos I used for kit assembly but I would bet Horizon is right & Dragon is wrong. 1.Changing the decals on the Dragon to MR-8 because the capsule has a rectangular window to match Liberty Bell 7. I had to overpaint the MR-7 with 4 coats of white because the MR-7 decal was clear coated over. 2.Adding the Liberty Bell 7 name & white crack to the capsule 3.Then overpainting the the correct black & white pattern between the fins. Thats a lot of work to a a pre-made model to correct the larger errors. Here is a link to the horizon Redstone page where you can click on the decal sheet & see what I am talking about. http://www.horizon-models.com/1-72-mercury-redstone
  7. Well hubu2 you already have the 2 Dragon Mercury capsule parts for adapting the 3D printed Crows Nest Mercury capsule (see my comments in "Horizon Models - Mercury-Redstone 1/72 new kit"). So you can improve on the MR Horizon kit & still have the Redstone parts of the Dragon kit. You could wait for the Horizon Redstone build WRESAT and adapt the leftover Horizon Juno I parts to the Dragon Redstone. The Horizon Redstone will need the tapered upper section for WRESAT. The Dragon Redstone was to short for the MR (a scale fault on Dragons kit) but it could be a little too long for Juno I, you could shorten the Dragaon for Juno I. Look at the drawings above & you can see the Redstone different lengths for the different versions.
  8. Here is some of the detail on the bottom half of the Horizon Mercury Redstone.
  9. Here is a closeup of the Crowes Nest Mercury Capsule & the Aerospace Place LES.
  10. I emailed Horizon to get a extra PE part sheet & I have some news. The next Horizon model to be released this year will be an Juno I (Explorer 1 launch vehicle) you knew this since they had what looked like an antenna in the PE sheet for Explorer 1. Sorry no Gemini Titan yet. Horizon also does different versions in the same kit so the model can also be built as a Restone IRBM also. But wait there is more since they are a Australia based company they will also have the parts for a WRESAT version! To help your space history memory WRESAT was the first & I think only satellite launched from Australia soil. It used a leftover Restone booster from a program called SPARTA where Australia launched several Redstones to test re-entry vehicles. The WRESAT Redstone was the last Redstone ever launched back in 1967. I don't know about you but I want to build all 3 versions. The Redstone has always been a favorite of mine. The 3 different version look very different from each other.
  11. Here is the finished Horizon Mercury-Redstone next to a Dragon MR that came prebuilt. I added some decals to the Dragon MR to ID it as MR8 (Liberty Bell 7). You can see the Horizon MR is longer and the checkerboard pattern on the top of the Horizon MR is smaller. The biggest problem with the prebuilt Dragon is that the black & white pattern between the fins is repeated on both sides. On the other side one quarter between the fins should be all white & the next quarter should be all black. This one mistake on the dragon really bugs me. Remember they are both 1/72 scale.
  12. I am in the process of building the Horizon Mercury-Redstone and I think it is a great kit with fantastic details not seen before in plastic model kits of a Mercury-Redstone in 1/72 scale. Its about 100 times more detailed than the 1/72 Dragon Mercury-Redstone. The Dragon MR didn't have rivets or the thrust directional vanes under the exhaust nozzle to name but 2 details. Even though this model is great in detail there were still things I didn't like and wanted to improve on. The biggest complaint was making MR3 Mercury spacecraft (porthole version Freedom 7) that required covering up the newer rectangular window with a PE(photo etched) hull section. Then adding 2 portholes again with PE parts, this had the disadvantage of making the portholes pop out instead of into the hull of the spacecraft. Than adding the older non explosive bolt hatch with you guessed it a PE part. The hatch would have turned out good since it is to be raised from the hull. The last thing I didn't like was you had to assemble the spacecraft from 3 pieces to make the main hull, not so easy in 1/72 scale. The boiler plate capsule also in the same kit comes in one part, why not the later manned spacecraft? I found that "Crows Nest" on Shapeways had a 1/72 portholes version (highly detailed and in one piece) for the Dragon Mercury-Redstone kit. Well since it is a part for a Dragon kit instead of the Horizon kit there where some things that need to be brought over from a Dragon Mercury capsule. The Dragon Mercury-Redstone kit is long gone but I found you can buy many prebuilt versions of MR4 (Liberty Bell 7) on eBay, I didn't say this would be cheap. You need the heat shield & the parachute canister nose which can be separated from a prebuild without breaking them. The Crows Nest capsule is a little small so the heat shield from the Dragon is needed to add height to the capsule so it will sit on the Redstone OK. You still have to sand the heat shield down a little to fit the Crows Nest capsule. Also needed is the antenna fairing/recovery compartment combination from the Dragon. The antenna fairing on the Horizon model is a separate part while the recovery compartment is attached to the Horizon capsule. Take my word for you need the two dragon parts. The reto pack doesn't matter since it will be hidden when the capsule is glued to the Redstone. I used Testors metalizer Exhaust for a off flat black color. I also was not happy with the LES (launch Escape System) tower from Horizon which must be assembled from several parts and you have to re-drill the holes in the base ring to fit the 3 sides of the LES structure. Not an easy feat in 1/72. Shapeways to the rescue again this time by "The Aerospace Place", just search Shapeways for "Mercury LES". Use the more expensive by $3 FXD version. Comes completely assembled ready for paint (I leave mine in the sun for a day to cure before painting). From the top down: 1. The Aerospace Place unpainted LES 2. The Aerospace Place painted (I used Testors Chevy Engine Red for that little orange tint in the red) 3. Dragon version (much larger exhaust nozzles) you get a LES when you buy a pre-built Liberty Bell 7, so if you would rather use the Dragon version it comes pre-painted. But I think this LES is less accurate in dimensions. 4. The Horizon LES (I used a Horizon LES & boiler plated capsule on a 1/72 little Joe by Real Space Models) The last thing I found was the PE parts (PER4) to be glued under the adaptor only after you have painted the model & added the checker board decal on the top section of the Mercury-Redstone. I was wondering how to do that and paint the PE part white & black with out painting the decal. If you chip away some paint under the adaptor with a exacto blade & then super glue the PE parts only on the top. You can slip a small piece of paper under the bottom of the PE part while you paint it so as not to over paint the decal. You could prepaint the PE parts but there are very very small. I will upload a photo of the finished model after its done.
  13. Just an update here incase anyone does want to buy a color laser printer to print decals. I contacted HP & they don't recommend any printer under $1000 for printing onto water slide decal paper. That said they do sell printers that print onto heavy glossy paper of up to 52 ibs paper weight for way under $1000. Water slide decal paper is about 45 ibs paper weight. You can pick up a discontinued & refurbished printer on Amazon (HP Color LaserJet CP2025dn) for about $175. You can also buy a new HP Color LaserJet CP2025dn for $270. I got the new printer since I want to keep it for a while for many other printing jobs. But I am still going to follow the 4 suggestions that hotdog outlined above to print smug free decals.
  14. Solo7

    USAF X-20 Dynasoar w/ Titan IIIC

    Well Hotdog, this post is a little after you started your Titan III/X-20 project, but I only just got mine done. Now I am just waiting for a wood base to display my Titan III/X-20. Your posting of your build got me going & I got a MPC Titan IIIc and a Shapeways X-20 1/100 scale by Alternate Visions. I decided to make my version a copy of a Boeing contractor model. I first got the X-20 in black acrylic which turn out to be a waste since it cost more & I still had to coat it with XTC-3D as you did anyway to be paintable. While sanding the X-20 it fell and when it hit the floor a winglet snapped off. Seems the model is much more brittle when coated by XTC-3D (like glass). Rather than fix it I reordered the X-20 in Frosted Ultra Detail so I didn't have to redo the XTC-3D coating, which cost more $$$. A little wet sanding with fine sandpaper & the X-20 was good for paint. I have enclosed a photo of my Titan III/X-20 and a link to a photo of the Boeing model from the Boeing photo archives http://www.boeingimages.com/archive/Dyna Soar Model with Booster-2F3XC5OGM7U.html Hotdog; thank you for your posting of your Titan III/X-20 build without your posting I would not have gotten my Titan III/X-20 done.
  15. OK the Bel decal website sends me over to www.decalpaper.com so I have the right paper. I use the printer in my office and the color printer is within 5 feet of the refrigerator. So I swiftly install the paper in the bypass tray after coming out of the freezer and then click the print button on my computer. This all WORKED! The print has NO smudging, Thank you Hotdog!