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About jelliott523

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    Glue Required

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  1. My thought, and what seems to work for me, is that by applying one or maybe two coats of gloss after applying decals allows for light sanding to help remove the decal edge. This I've found especially helpful when using Tamiya and Hasegawa decals. These tend to be thicker than others and almost always end up with a slightly visible edge. The coats of clear, will show up as the raised edge and then you can use a light sanding to blend that edge down and hit it again with another light coat of gloss to blend it all together. I typically use GX 112 & 113 UV cut clears as my final clears, thinned with MLT or Mr. Rapid Thinner, depending on the finish I'm going for.
  2. For Mr. Surfacer 1500 and 1200, I generally start around 50/50, for me that seems to work in most cases. I normally spray Mr. Surfacer through my Sotar 20/20 with the .2 needle around 8-10 psi. If I'm spraying Stynylrez, I shoot it through my Krome with the .3 needle somewhere between 20-35 psi. I do not thin my Stynylrez. I've heard several people talk about heating up their bottles in warm water prior to spraying, I personally have not done this, nor have I found a situation where I thought it might help. The only Stynylrez product that I've ran into performance issues with is the gloss black primer, and its really not what I would consider "glossy", to me its on the lower end of the scale below semi-gloss, it also seems to be a thinner consistency from the regular products.
  3. I go back and forth between Mr. Surfacer 1500 and 1200 as well as Stynylrez (grey, white, black, & gloss black). If I'm spraying interior for cockpits or areas that have sharp corners that could be hard to get into, I'll use the Stynylrez because of the self-leveling properties. I've found that sometimes, spraying a lacquer primer in these areas can sometimes get a grainy appearance from primer particles swirling around and drying before landing on the wet surface.
  4. Hotdog, I dont know if you are still checking in on the thread or not, but I was curious about putting the paper in the fridge. Can you put it in by itself, or should I seal it in a ziploc type of bag to prevent moisture getting to the paper? I to have an HP Laserjet MFP and experienced the smudging that Solo was describing. I also had trouble getting it to feed through the bypass tray.
  5. For tinting canopies, I typically use Tamiya Smoke and Tamiya clear yellow thinned with X-20A. Multiple very thin coats.
  6. Generally, it wasnt too bad. The only other area where I had a little bit of clean-up to do was around the intakes, nothing nearly as traumatic as a Revell kit although. The seams are pretty decently designed along panel lines in most cases. Fit of the engine intake trunking doesnt leave much room for error. The fit tolerances are pretty tight so dry fitting of parts is a good idea, as with most of the newer kits coming out. The decals are great, all were appear to be in register and the colors are very crisp. Even the small stencil decals can be read.
  7. I've just recently completed the Kinetic F/A-18C kit, not sure if it was one with the corrected tails or not. Parts of the build werent bad, other issues, such as the nose and the fit of the front windscreen left a lot to be desired. I've just picked up a Hasegawa EA-18G kit, hoping the kit is better.
  8. If you mess up any others for that scheme, I am also doing that one and could send them to you from Idaho.
  9. I'm also building the Kinetic Hornet kit right now. Some things in the kit are nice and have been mentioned above. I ended up cutting the nose section from the top of the fuselage and attached it to the nose section and then mated the two parts together, this did help in the fit of the parts a little better from what others had described; however, an issue that I've run into is with the IP coaming and the fit of the front windscreen. I have a massive step where the windscreen meets the nose, I think I'm going to have to do some sanding and filling to blend them together. As others have said, the intakes are tricky and I think I'm going to make F.O.D. covers for them to cover them up. For the seat I used an aftermarket one from Aries i believe, and it looks much better. I've not built the Hasegawa kit, but I think, if I were to build another Hornet, Hasegawa would be my choice.
  10. I am in Idaho, and I'd be glad to pay for them! Let me know. I'll send you a PM.
  11. Maybe I should just contact Zvezda and see if I can get replacements. I thought they might just be loose in the packaging, but they are not there.
  12. I recently purchased the Zvezda 737-800 kit after looking at several sprue shots and reviews. I went with this kit due to the fact that the reviews of the kit and pictures of the sprues showed that it also included the new scimitar winglets and I was planning to get the new Alaska Airlines scheme. Unfortunately, when I opened the kit, only part of the scimitar winglets was in the kit. Has anyone else seen this?
  13. I'm going to have my wife see if she can figure it out. She works for HP in the printer division, I'll tell her.....ask her nicely, to see if she can make it work.
  14. I also thought about making my own decals, and I have clear and white decal paper for use in a laser jet printer (which is the printer I have at home); however, the problem I've had is that I cannot get my printer to accept the paper, when it does print, its extremely smudged and does not look very good.
  15. Great looking helo Charlie! that may be a way to go with printing on adhesive paper. Thanks Chief, I've seen the Werner Wings stuff. I'll have to take a look at the RFLIGHT stuff and see if its something I could use. Thanks for the info. As it sits right now, I think I may actually just have the Idaho State Seal printed and then make masks to paint the red crosses.
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