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Lucio Martino

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About Lucio Martino

  • Rank
    Glue Required
  • Birthday 05/24/1961

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    Male
  • Location
    Roma, Italy / Columbia, South Carolina

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  1. What about using your method to glue small and flat resin bits ?
  2. Dear RichB63, Jbryan911, Finn, JackMan, and Dehowie, Let me thank you all for your great help. Now, I have enough documentation to check the accuracy of the old 1/48 Monogram Thunderchief. More from me on that on a future thread. Again, thank you all. Lucio ________________________________________________________________ P.S.: Given dehowie comments, I edited my first post deleting any mention of the Hobby Boss kit.
  3. Hi, I am looking for some - accurate - drawings of the F-105D because I am considering a Thunderchief as my next jet aircraft 1:48 project. Of the many web available drawing I have no idea of which one I can trust. I do know that almost no drawings is perfect, but some are better than others. I just need drawings shapewise proportionally correct. While ago, I got the excellent forward fuselage correction set released by DMolds, but I know that rear fuselage, tail, and wings need at least some cutting and trimming. Accurate drawings would allow me to assess the required corrections. Best, c
  4. Probably the best 1:48 scale model I have ever seen. Congratulations.
  5. @coneheadff @speedlimit @Mstor Thank you all for following this build. ____________________________________________________ Improving Hasegawa 1:48 Tomcat - 11 Tails, Stabilizer, and Strakes (I) Step 35 of this kit instructions is pretty disappointing (pic 116). According to Hasegawa, the stabilizer to the rear fuselage joint is a very weak and almost a randomic affair. True, after getting together the fuselage halves we have a couple of holes (pic 118) in which inserting the short rods located on the internal side of the elevons (pic 117), but that is far from enough to assure a sturdy fit and, most important, the correct -3,5° dihedral. To fix all this, the first thing I did was to lengthen the stabilizer rods using my beloved Testor liquid cement for plastic and some sprue of the same diameter (pic 119). Then I cut the two short pieces of brass tube that you can see in pic 120, and I glued them to the lower fuselage, using a generous amount of superglue, as you can see in pictures 121-123. Pic 124 shows the short brass tube in position, and pic 125 shows no conflict with the internal rear fuselage parts. Then, I cut the lengthened stabilizer rods so to match the lenght of the brass tubes inserted in the fuselage (pic 126). At this point, the stabilizer rods are a little more than twice their original lenght. The final product, in a temporary assembly, is shown in the following four pictures (pics 127-130). Again, any feedback is welcome.
  6. Sir, Let me say this again: We need you to downsize to 1:72 your FB-111 sheet.
  7. Other models as well. First one to be re-released was the EF-111A.
  8. KursadA, We need you to shrink your beatiful 1:48 FB-111A sheet in 1:72. To my knowledge, the few related old Micro/Super Scale sheets are very hard to find. In addition, Hasegawa is re-realising this kit, still tge best in this scale. Looking forward to that.
  9. Cercando questa decals: Super Scale 72-613 Google mi ha dato questo tuo vecchio annuncio. Vorrei chiederti se ce l'hai ancora e se saresti disposto a vendermela. Cordiali saluti, lucio.martino@tin.it
  10. I wonder if they will ever make available some drawings. We badly miss some accurate Thunderchief drawings.
  11. Hi, Any chances that the clear resin will turn yellow with the passing of time?
  12. @coneheadff Finally I know why so few builds of this kit... ____________________________________________________ Improving Hasegawa 1:48 Tomcat - 10 Main Fuselage (IX) Pic 107 shows the modified air intake upper surface. I rebuilt to a wider dimension the rear end of the air intake upper surface using some Evergreen stripes. The modified and unmodified sides of the lower half of the fuselage, and parts D1 and D4, are shown in pic 108. To get a better understanding of the overall shape and dimension of the air intakes, I needed to glue parts D1 and D4 to lower fuselage. Parts D1 and D4 are very rough. I clean them carefully, checking them continuously against the lower fuselage, nevertheless their joint needed few layers of Mr. Surfacer 500 to look acceptable (pics 109 and 110). Finally, pics 111, 112, 113, 114, and 115 show all these parts dry fitted outside and inside the air intake trunks. Any feedback is welcome.
  13. @coneheadff @Tomcat Trebor @Piker38 @Keroburner89 Thank you very much. I love your feedbacks. ___________________________________________________________ Improving Hasegawa 1:48 Tomcat - 09 Main Fuselage (VIII) From time to time my AMS becomes acute. That does not need much, let alone when it comes to something like you see in pic 91. G10 and G11, the upper walls of the air intakes, are clearly narrower than they should be to tightly meet parts B1 and B9. True, I reduced the thickness of the vertical walls of the air intakes because they look too thick, but not so much as to create such a gap. That the problem is even more manifest comparing parts G10 and G11 with the lower half fuselage, as shown by pic 92. Something did not work well in the air intakes of my Hasegawa Tomcat, but I could not tell what. Checking the dimensions of parts G10 and G11 I have to say that they are fine because multiplied by 48, the 14.91 mm measured by my caliber equals 715.68 mm, a value close enough to the 744 mm of the Grumman Tomcat (pic 93 and 94). At this point, getting bored of browsing the web and my books, I payed an inspirational visit to the Tomcat parked on the deck of the USS Yorktown (pic 95 and 96). I am working on this kit mostly to challenge myself with old school techniques, not to build a perfect replica. In that case, I would have pick a Tamiya Tomcat, either in 1:48 or 1:32. Given that, I stopped counting rivets and I choose to do what I could to make the air intakes, if not accurate, at least looking somewhat better than out of the box. To this extent, I sanded down even more the interior sides of parts B1 and B9 to wider the upper walls of the air intakes, and that was quite an easy job. Pics 97 and 98 show the un-modified and modified parts. At the end, I removed almost one mm for each side (pics 99 and 100). To wider parts G10, G12, G11, and G13, I engraved a deep line with a needle guided by tape. Then, using one of my photo-etched saws I cut them in two half (pics 101 and 102). As you can see in pic 103, after sanding down their excessively thick edges, I glued them together by inserting some Evergreen .125X.060 strip. Pic 104 shows the final products, wider, longer, thinner and equipped with new edges made with Evergreen .060X.010 strip. Next step was to wider the related sections of the lower semi-fuselage. As a guide for my needle I used a metal template for one side, and some tape for the other side because it was too narrow to use a metal template. Finally, I cut along the engraved lines using a photo etched saw (pic 105 and 106). More from me soon.
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