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Lucio Martino

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About Lucio Martino

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    Glue Required
  • Birthday 05/24/1961

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    Roma, Italy / Columbia, South Carolina

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  1. Thank you Aigore ! And thank you again for sharing your work here on ARC. It is always very inspirational.
  2. Thank you! I am thinking about one of the early Tomcat deployed aboard the USS. Enterprise in 1976. It all depends by if, and how, I will be able to fix the seven door gun panel, because I do not like the way it is out of the box. Later gun doors parts are from from perfect but better. Look at the next pics: If I go early, I am thinking about the VF-1 aircraft in the dark Ferris-Heather camouflage variant.
  3. My sincere apologies !!!!! It happens and it will happen again if I keep using my few inches tablet instead of my computer...
  4. Again, thank you all for your attention. @ Whiskey I see your point. they are worth even only for the decals. That is even more true today that it was in the past, given that now most of 1:48 decal sheets are over US20$. @Fefster I agree with you: I will never build another Hasegawa Tomcat. @Hubbie Marsten “Your Hasegawa Tomcat mod thread is like following a series on Netflix”… I am flattened ! I can’t tell about AMK and GWH Tomcats simply because I never held one of them in my hands. So far, the Tamiya Tomcat is way better than any other 1:48 Tomcat (nothing scientific, just my opinion). _____________________________________________________________ Improving Hasegawa 1:48 Tomcat - 13 Main Fuselage (X) These intakes are a true never-ending story. Watching again my modified parts, and the pics posted in this thread, I had the feeling that something was not looking right. In rebuilding parts F8 and F10, I made their edges as tall as much as they originally made by Hasegawa, and that is wrong as you can see in the next old pic (112). So, I slightly cut them down, about half of a mm. Pics 149 and 150 show the air intake parts after I cut their edges to a more in-scale appearance, and after that I glued them together using some Evergreen .010 polystyrene as a base. To keep a very narrow line of separation between these parts, I used a stripe of .005 Evergreen. Given that I am planning to build this kit as a very early Tomcat, like the one parked on the Yorktown I visited months ago, pic 151 shows the two small pieces of .040X.040 Evergreen I glued to the inner top of parts F12 and F13 to make them looking closer to what I saw inside that Tomcat. In the following pics (152-155), all these further modified parts are dry fitted in position. The shortened edges look more accurate than before. Hopefully, I am not going to modify them again because at the end, my plan is to somewhat improve this kit, to make it looking better, not to build the best possible replica in 1:48 scale of this aircraft. In addition, the inside of the air intakes will barely be visible in this scale. The two pieces of .060 Evergreen polystyrene shown in pics 156 and 157 are just enough to avoid any see-through the by-pass upper doors. Pic 158 shows the main difference between a Tomcat and a very early Tomcat: the beaver tail. Unless I change my mind, and that is still quite possible, I am going to use the two parts on the right. Any suggestions about which aircraft and which markings are very welcome.
  5. First of all, let me thank you all for your attention and your kind words. @Fefster I am sorry to read that my post came late. In your opinion, what is the worst problem in building this kit? @Hobbie Marsten When lengthening the rods, I checked continuously to get that negative dihedral. @ViperZero Yes, I will keep it up. @Major Walt Well, so far it is mostly an exercise in old modeling techniques. @Tomcat Trebor If you ever do that, what version and what markings are going to choose? Let me know, I am close to decide about camouflage and markings for this kit. @coneheadff Yes, I have tried the beaver tail. I think that is way better to glue the two half tails before glueing together the upper and lower fuselages. Did not do it yet only because I have both the very early and the later one and still I do not know if building this tomcat as a very early machine or not. @Whiskey I would not suggest you to buy three Hasegawa Tomcat. Maybe two would be a good idea: one as a collection item and the other to be built right away. In this case, I would suggest you to build your Tomcat in flight, with wings at air intake in the supersonic configuration, so to minimize building troubles. @Parabat I see your point. But, on the other hand, how could we ever like this hobby if we did not love challenges and loosing a lot of time? @Brian P: Fightertown Decals You are definitely right, building the Tamiya Tomcat is the only way to go to get a very accurate rendition of this aircraft. Nevertheless, I am having a lot of fun working on this kit and that is what matter the most to me. ____________________________________________________ Improving Hasegawa 1:48 Tomcat - 12 Cockpit and Wheels Wells (II) Honestly, the Aires 1:48 F-14A cockpit detail set is irresistible, a big improvement to the Hasegawa kit. Just take a look at the following two pictures (131–132). Given how roomy is the Tomcat cockpit most of this detail will be quite visible after closing the fuselages. However, fitting this chunk of resin between the Hasegawa forward fuselage parts (A4 and A12) is far from being easy. According to the instructions, the resin “bathtub” (part 11) must be heavily sanded to seat on top of the forward wheel assembly (pics 133). Then, a kind of plastic ridge must be removed from the inside of the half forward fuselages, as you can see in pic 134. Now that the “bathtub” floor was thin enough to stay clear of the front wheel wells, it became pretty clear that Aires never really intended to close his cockpit inside this kit because it is too wide (pic 135). And this aires resin cockpit gets even wider if, following the instruction, parts 9 and 10 (pic 136) are glued to the “bathtub”. There is only one good solution: sanding and scraping off all these plastic and resin parts. Pic 137 shows both half forward fuselages after cleaning away quite much of their interior and after gluing some short strips of Evergreen to support the resin cockpit. Pic 138 shows a finally much narrow Aires part 11. After some dry fitting, I saw that getting all the hooks looking the canopy aligned was quite difficult. Pics 139-142 show how I cut and modified the hook related Aires parts and glued them to the cockpit sides. As you can see, all canopy hooks look aligned. It is a small detail, but given my Advanced Modeler Syndrome... Pics 143-146 show all this assembly dry fitted. Next pic (147) show how the now much narrow resin cockpit fits now inside the Hasegawa fuselage. Finally, pic 148 shows the outcome of another dry fitting session.
  6. What about using your method to glue small and flat resin bits ?
  7. Dear RichB63, Jbryan911, Finn, JackMan, and Dehowie, Let me thank you all for your great help. Now, I have enough documentation to check the accuracy of the old 1/48 Monogram Thunderchief. More from me on that on a future thread. Again, thank you all. Lucio ________________________________________________________________ P.S.: Given dehowie comments, I edited my first post deleting any mention of the Hobby Boss kit.
  8. Hi, I am looking for some - accurate - drawings of the F-105D because I am considering a Thunderchief as my next jet aircraft 1:48 project. Of the many web available drawing I have no idea of which one I can trust. I do know that almost no drawings is perfect, but some are better than others. I just need drawings shapewise proportionally correct. While ago, I got the excellent forward fuselage correction set released by DMolds, but I know that rear fuselage, tail, and wings need at least some cutting and trimming. Accurate drawings would allow me to assess the required corrections. Best, c
  9. Probably the best 1:48 scale model I have ever seen. Congratulations.
  10. @coneheadff @speedlimit @Mstor Thank you all for following this build. ____________________________________________________ Improving Hasegawa 1:48 Tomcat - 11 Tails, Stabilizer, and Strakes (I) Step 35 of this kit instructions is pretty disappointing (pic 116). According to Hasegawa, the stabilizer to the rear fuselage joint is a very weak and almost a randomic affair. True, after getting together the fuselage halves we have a couple of holes (pic 118) in which inserting the short rods located on the internal side of the elevons (pic 117), but that is far from enough to assure a sturdy fit and, most important, the correct -3,5° dihedral. To fix all this, the first thing I did was to lengthen the stabilizer rods using my beloved Testor liquid cement for plastic and some sprue of the same diameter (pic 119). Then I cut the two short pieces of brass tube that you can see in pic 120, and I glued them to the lower fuselage, using a generous amount of superglue, as you can see in pictures 121-123. Pic 124 shows the short brass tube in position, and pic 125 shows no conflict with the internal rear fuselage parts. Then, I cut the lengthened stabilizer rods so to match the lenght of the brass tubes inserted in the fuselage (pic 126). At this point, the stabilizer rods are a little more than twice their original lenght. The final product, in a temporary assembly, is shown in the following four pictures (pics 127-130). Again, any feedback is welcome.
  11. Sir, Let me say this again: We need you to downsize to 1:72 your FB-111 sheet.
  12. Other models as well. First one to be re-released was the EF-111A.
  13. KursadA, We need you to shrink your beatiful 1:48 FB-111A sheet in 1:72. To my knowledge, the few related old Micro/Super Scale sheets are very hard to find. In addition, Hasegawa is re-realising this kit, still tge best in this scale. Looking forward to that.
  14. Cercando questa decals: Super Scale 72-613 Google mi ha dato questo tuo vecchio annuncio. Vorrei chiederti se ce l'hai ancora e se saresti disposto a vendermela. Cordiali saluti, lucio.martino@tin.it
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