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Lucio Martino

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Everything posted by Lucio Martino

  1. What about using your method to glue small and flat resin bits ?
  2. Dear RichB63, Jbryan911, Finn, JackMan, and Dehowie, Let me thank you all for your great help. Now, I have enough documentation to check the accuracy of the old 1/48 Monogram Thunderchief. More from me on that on a future thread. Again, thank you all. Lucio ________________________________________________________________ P.S.: Given dehowie comments, I edited my first post deleting any mention of the Hobby Boss kit.
  3. Hi, I am looking for some - accurate - drawings of the F-105D because I am considering a Thunderchief as my next jet aircraft 1:48 project. Of the many web available drawing I have no idea of which one I can trust. I do know that almost no drawings is perfect, but some are better than others. I just need drawings shapewise proportionally correct. While ago, I got the excellent forward fuselage correction set released by DMolds, but I know that rear fuselage, tail, and wings need at least some cutting and trimming. Accurate drawings would allow me to assess the required corrections. Best, c
  4. Probably the best 1:48 scale model I have ever seen. Congratulations.
  5. @coneheadff @speedlimit @Mstor Thank you all for following this build. ____________________________________________________ Improving Hasegawa 1:48 Tomcat - 11 Tails, Stabilizer, and Strakes (I) Step 35 of this kit instructions is pretty disappointing (pic 116). According to Hasegawa, the stabilizer to the rear fuselage joint is a very weak and almost a randomic affair. True, after getting together the fuselage halves we have a couple of holes (pic 118) in which inserting the short rods located on the internal side of the elevons (pic 117), but that is far from enough to assure a sturdy fit and, most important, the correct -3,5° dihedral. To fix all this, the first thing I did was to lengthen the stabilizer rods using my beloved Testor liquid cement for plastic and some sprue of the same diameter (pic 119). Then I cut the two short pieces of brass tube that you can see in pic 120, and I glued them to the lower fuselage, using a generous amount of superglue, as you can see in pictures 121-123. Pic 124 shows the short brass tube in position, and pic 125 shows no conflict with the internal rear fuselage parts. Then, I cut the lengthened stabilizer rods so to match the lenght of the brass tubes inserted in the fuselage (pic 126). At this point, the stabilizer rods are a little more than twice their original lenght. The final product, in a temporary assembly, is shown in the following four pictures (pics 127-130). Again, any feedback is welcome.
  6. Sir, Let me say this again: We need you to downsize to 1:72 your FB-111 sheet.
  7. Other models as well. First one to be re-released was the EF-111A.
  8. KursadA, We need you to shrink your beatiful 1:48 FB-111A sheet in 1:72. To my knowledge, the few related old Micro/Super Scale sheets are very hard to find. In addition, Hasegawa is re-realising this kit, still tge best in this scale. Looking forward to that.
  9. Cercando questa decals: Super Scale 72-613 Google mi ha dato questo tuo vecchio annuncio. Vorrei chiederti se ce l'hai ancora e se saresti disposto a vendermela. Cordiali saluti, lucio.martino@tin.it
  10. I wonder if they will ever make available some drawings. We badly miss some accurate Thunderchief drawings.
  11. Hi, Any chances that the clear resin will turn yellow with the passing of time?
  12. @coneheadff Finally I know why so few builds of this kit... ____________________________________________________ Improving Hasegawa 1:48 Tomcat - 10 Main Fuselage (IX) Pic 107 shows the modified air intake upper surface. I rebuilt to a wider dimension the rear end of the air intake upper surface using some Evergreen stripes. The modified and unmodified sides of the lower half of the fuselage, and parts D1 and D4, are shown in pic 108. To get a better understanding of the overall shape and dimension of the air intakes, I needed to glue parts D1 and D4 to lower fuselage. Parts D1 and D4 are very rough. I clean them carefully, checking them continuously against the lower fuselage, nevertheless their joint needed few layers of Mr. Surfacer 500 to look acceptable (pics 109 and 110). Finally, pics 111, 112, 113, 114, and 115 show all these parts dry fitted outside and inside the air intake trunks. Any feedback is welcome.
  13. @coneheadff @Tomcat Trebor @Piker38 @Keroburner89 Thank you very much. I love your feedbacks. ___________________________________________________________ Improving Hasegawa 1:48 Tomcat - 09 Main Fuselage (VIII) From time to time my AMS becomes acute. That does not need much, let alone when it comes to something like you see in pic 91. G10 and G11, the upper walls of the air intakes, are clearly narrower than they should be to tightly meet parts B1 and B9. True, I reduced the thickness of the vertical walls of the air intakes because they look too thick, but not so much as to create such a gap. That the problem is even more manifest comparing parts G10 and G11 with the lower half fuselage, as shown by pic 92. Something did not work well in the air intakes of my Hasegawa Tomcat, but I could not tell what. Checking the dimensions of parts G10 and G11 I have to say that they are fine because multiplied by 48, the 14.91 mm measured by my caliber equals 715.68 mm, a value close enough to the 744 mm of the Grumman Tomcat (pic 93 and 94). At this point, getting bored of browsing the web and my books, I payed an inspirational visit to the Tomcat parked on the deck of the USS Yorktown (pic 95 and 96). I am working on this kit mostly to challenge myself with old school techniques, not to build a perfect replica. In that case, I would have pick a Tamiya Tomcat, either in 1:48 or 1:32. Given that, I stopped counting rivets and I choose to do what I could to make the air intakes, if not accurate, at least looking somewhat better than out of the box. To this extent, I sanded down even more the interior sides of parts B1 and B9 to wider the upper walls of the air intakes, and that was quite an easy job. Pics 97 and 98 show the un-modified and modified parts. At the end, I removed almost one mm for each side (pics 99 and 100). To wider parts G10, G12, G11, and G13, I engraved a deep line with a needle guided by tape. Then, using one of my photo-etched saws I cut them in two half (pics 101 and 102). As you can see in pic 103, after sanding down their excessively thick edges, I glued them together by inserting some Evergreen .125X.060 strip. Pic 104 shows the final products, wider, longer, thinner and equipped with new edges made with Evergreen .060X.010 strip. Next step was to wider the related sections of the lower semi-fuselage. As a guide for my needle I used a metal template for one side, and some tape for the other side because it was too narrow to use a metal template. Finally, I cut along the engraved lines using a photo etched saw (pic 105 and 106). More from me soon.
  14. Zac, Please do your magic and give us a new, omega shaped, canopy for the "1 72" Zvezda Su-27. It is a beatiful accurate kit, it would be worth a better canopy. Best,
  15. @coneheadff Yes Yes, the surgery solved the problem. Now I can insert subassemblies B10-B11 and B2-B3 either from the top or from the bottom of the lower fuselage without any problem. Thank you again for your attention @TheMongoose Just a short note to thank you for your nice words. ___________________________________________________________ Improving Hasegawa 1:48 Tomcat - 08 Main Fuselage (VII) The more I focus on this kit, the more I discover that my efforts to improve the air intakes are far from over. However, more on that in a future post because I need a break from the air intakes ordeal. Checking the upper fuselage, I can not precisely explain what it is wrong with the wing gloves of the Hasegawa kit, but they just do not look right, they just do not look the way they should. One good solution to improve this area would be using the etched aftermarket detail set released by A.M.U.R. Reaver (PE4804), but it is out of stock. Comparing the Hasegawa wing gloves with my references, they look simplified at least. To bring them up, the first thing I did was to remove an engraved line running along the outer edge. To this extent, some Mr. Surfacer Gunze 500 came very handy, as you can see in pic 79 and 80. Wet sanding came next, having care not only to remove all the excess filler, but to somewhat reshape the entire area. Pics 81 and 82 show these two areas after wet sanding and after heavy engraving with a sharp needle of all the separate wing glove finger seals. The fit between the inflatable bags, parts A10 and A11, and the upper fuselage is very flimsy. Positioned like in the pic 84 and 85, two small strips of Evergreen are enough to get these parts laying sturdy on the upper fuselage without any glue. With this two parts firmly in position, I could address another important missing detail: the sealant stripes sandwiched between the wing gloves and the wings. I simulated these with few inches of .10X.120 Evergreen, carefully cut using as a reference photos and the Tamiya Tomcat. Pics 86 and 87 show these strips glued to the bottom edge of the upper fuselage. At the end, fixing the missing sealant stripes was not so difficult. Not so difficult either is cutting and gluing six small pieces of Evergreen to imitate three small little things sitting in top of the each wing glove. Finally, with a 0.4 mm drill-bit I engraved the rivets running near the edge of the inflatable bags (pics 88, 89 and 90). PS: I would like some feedback on the quality my pictures. Focus, too big, too small, to bright, too dark, etc.
  16. Hi, What about Zvezda "Polite People" ? https://zvezda.org.ru/catalog/sbornye_modeli/miniatyura/poslevoennaya_i_sovremennaya_figures/rossiyskaya_sovremennaya_pekhota/ I am planning to build a tank, a T-80BV for a change, in a quite simple diorama. I wonder how good these figures are, and if are appropriate near a T-80BV. Cheers, Lucio
  17. Thank you dnl42 for your very clear instructions.
  18. @Tomcat Trebor @andrew.deboer @coneheadff @Keroburner89 @ViperZero Thank you all. Thank you so much ! _____________________________________________________________ Improving Hasegawa 1:48 Tomcat - 07 Main Fuselage (VI) When I thought I had solved all the issues related to the air intakes (pic 68) - ie the two sets B1 / B10-B11 and B9 / B2-B3 - I realized that they do not fit well to the lower fuselage, despite what shown in the instructions (pic 69). After another careful dry-fitting session, I had to choose between cutting some of the lower fuselage, cutting some of the upper edges of the B10-B11 and B2-B3 sub-assemblies, or trowing my Hasegawa Tomcat into the garbage. At the end, I decided to remove the areas shown in pics 70 and 71. This operation has not been easy. Pics 72 and 73 show how, with the help of a photo-etched saw, I did it. The following pic 74 shows the reworked, now shorter, lower fuselage part. These other two pictures (pic 75 and 76) show the lower fuselage halfway in this process. As you can see in pics 77, 78, and 79 the intake trunk sub-assembly is now clear from any fitting problem. As a result, my Tomcat won't fly into the garbage. At last not yet.
  19. Banners says that uploading photos directly is possibile. But how ?
  20. @coneheadff @doppelänger I need to thank you for your interest in this build. However, more than doing my best to give solutions, I am challenging myself, checking my old school techniques on this kit. _____________________________________________________________ Improving Hasegawa 1:48 Tomcat - 06 Main Fuselage (V) With parts B1 and B9 finally looking, and fitting, much better, time had come to check how them fitted to parts B10-B11 and B2-B3, according to the instructions (pic 58). However, a short dry fitting session was enough to discover more problems. Looking at the many web available pictures of the inside of the F-14 air intakes, differences in color and in material are evident but no step is visible. Instead, when looking to the inside of the Hasegawa F-14 air intakes half way to the intake a step is clearly visible (pic 59). To remove that step from each air intake, and to easy all the related assembly process, I glued some .010 Evergreen stripes to the external edges of part B2 and B10, to be able to temporarily join these parts and to check their fit to the inside of the intake trunks (pics 60-61). Next step was to thin the lateral edges of parts B2-B3 and B10-B11 sanding from the inside. Then, I thinned their lower edges sanding from the outside (pics 62-63). After another long session of dry fitting, to be sure to get a continuos transition between parts B1/B10-B11 and B9/B2-B3, I engraved somewhat more the related area of parts B1 and B9 with a blade, as you can see on pics 64 and 65. Finally, pics 66 and 67 show a no step dry fit of this assembly. This kit air intakes are a never ending story. More on the Hasegawa Tomcat air intakes in the next post.
  21. @coneheadff @my favs are F's Thank you ! @doppelänger Hi Onigiri, I am sorry but I cannot post picture of those gauges. I am living between Roma in Italy and Columbia in South Carolina. Since early December I am in Columbia, but those gauges and my Tamiya Tomcat are in Roma. I just took with me my Hasegawa Tomcat. However yes, I did measure at a regular distance each stripe of tape first on the Tamiya and then on the Hasegawa wing glove. Best, _____________________________________________________________ Improving Hasegawa 1:48 Tomcat - 05 Main Fuselage (IV) The inside of the air intakes parts are plagued by extraction marks. Maybe they will not be visible at the end, but few drops of Mr. Surfacer Gunze 500 and some gentle sanding was enough to take care of them (pic 46). Not surprisingly, the fit of the air intake trunks, parts B1 and B9, to the lower fuselage is not good. Often in this kit, the mating areas are insufficient or non existent. My solution was to cut a little bit of Evergreen .010 plain plasticard in two 20x40 mm stripes and to glue them to the lower fuselage in order to support parts B1 and B9. In addition, two 10 mm long pieces of Evergreen .40X.80 stripes tighten the sides of parts B1 and B9 to the fuselage, as you can see in pics 47 and 48. Two other stripes of Evergreen plasticard, this time .20X.40, were needed to close two unexpected gaps between parts B1 and B9 and the lower fuselage (pics 49, 50, and 51). Focusing more on parts B1 and B9, I realized that their sides are too thick, and that their edges are not rounded enough. Actually, they are not rounded at all (pics 52-54). However, thinning and reshaping these areas more in scale with the help of a sanding sticks did not turn out to be a big deal (pics 55-57). The air intake ordeal is far from over. To be continued...
  22. @coneheadff Thank you for you nice words, very appriciated. The removed area is one mm deep, not narrowing to the back or to the front. I got this value comparing Hasegawa and Tamiya wings leading edges. Yes, the removal of 1 mm helps to close that gap, but more on that in a future post. _____________________________________________________________ Improving Hasegawa 1:48 Tomcat - 04 Main Fuselage (III) Building the air intakes is far from easy. Nothing matches. Fitting of the internal air intakes parts is vague at best. In addition, following the instruction, they build into supersonic configuration (pic 37). Interesting when building the model in flight. Disappointing when building the model on the ground, because on the ground are intakes most common configuration is subsonic. Three actuators for each intake move up and down three ramps controlling the air flow, so to switch from a subsonic, transonic, and supersonic configuration, but Hasegawa supplies only two actuators and two ramps for each air intake. Curiously, parts G7, G10, G8, and G11 have all the required location holes for the missing actuators. Another evidence of how sloppy and hurried up is this kit. Pics 38 and 39 shows how to fix parts G10 and G11. I did not cut these parts in two just because, for the subsonic configuration, engraving the missing line is enough. The missing actuators are not needed because in the subsonic configuration G20 and G11 stay flat on the air intake roofs. The same is true for the two nect actuators, parts H6. The other two actuators, parts H7, must be shortened, leaving a piston long a couple of mm (0.60), to position parts G12 and G13 only sligthly lowered. On this regard, see pics 40 and 41. After some dryfitying, I decided to glue parts G7 and G8 to the lower fuselage only where marked in pic 42, because these areas in my kit are warped, so that parts G7 and G8 stay straight and not bend. Pics 43, 44, and 45 show this assembly. Additional dryfitting shows additional problems. More on the air intakes in the next post.
  23. Chuck, I guess this doesn't come new to you: https://www.furballaero-design.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=32-002 Go black, but if you ever change your mind, take a look to the old Top Gun splinter (1986) and keep the all black finish for "the" black jet F-117.
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