kozlok

I'll just pop for the M then. Thanks!

I have the original issue of the Tamiya P-47D, but I'd like to build it as an M1 (with the more pronounced fin fillet). Is it only the tail portion I need to replace? If so, does someone have the bigger one spare from their M boxing? I'd like to make Dottie Dee:

Normally I'm a strictly 1/48th guy, but since I have some 1/72 tomcat decals lying around (VF-Decals!), I thought I'd make one for my desk. Anyway, I'm assuming that the best 72nd cat is the Hasegawa one, but I thought I remembered reading something about there being an old tool and a new tool version, but perhaps I'm crazy. I noticed on GreatModels that they have a bunch of boxings with very different pricing, so what's up with that? Just the usual "special decals" Hasegawa pricing scam? Can anyone offer up some advice for a wayward soul?

Sorry, the Tweet is ALWAYS on-topic.

They have several over on navy.mil. One Two Enjoy.

Waco and Murph will both be silent on this issue. They are both heavily involved in a top secret plan to upgrade the Tweet to C&C. I was sworn to secrecy, but the plan was partially declassified by the Moai's. As part of the Anti-Moai "COV", they will not recognize the Moai's authority to declassify. As I am pro-Moai, I feel no such conviction.

I personally like both the F-14 and F-15 equally, because the Flaps stay up on the ground. Jeez, you guys forget what's important in an aircraft...Stupid superhornet flaps...

I use the HP-C, and it's wonderful. The color cup is big enough for most everything. Occasionally I have to refill the cup in the middle of a big job (like flat coating a 1/48 F-14). The HP-CH is the high-line version, the HP-C+ is the high performance + version, the HP-CR is the revolution,and the CS is the eclipse. The eclipse line is mostly for heavier media, like automotive lacquers, the high-flow nozzle is probably not what you want for modeling if you do very fine work freehand. The revolution is a good airbrush for a lower price, but it has a bigger needle, so a little less contr

Go ahead and build it, right out of the box, score some Superscale replacment decals from your local hobby store, or from one of the many fine online shops (I like Sprue Brothers), and go for it. Don't try to convert it to a B, that will take time and money better spent building a better model!

Here They also are in-stock at flightdecs, listed at greatmodels, and I'm sure Gordon at Spruebros can order them up for you (superscale sheet 48-989)

Brian, I paid for one with paypal along with my tomcat piece. I have said the hail Moai's, and am arranging the aforementioned beer and playmates, but anyway, am I on the list to actually get a set since I ordered in such a bone headed way?

Decided to go a little dirtier Let me know what you think, should I tone it down a bit?

This is how dirty I decided on. It's still shiny from the future, so forgive the reflections. The panel line shading is more subtle in person.

What, are they in to "fashion" or something?

The best way to distribute the pieces is to give me the coolest one. If you have a complete engine, or a complete cockpit, that'd be for me. In all seriousness, I'm happy to have participated. It was a real joy to see a pic of my build along side so many well built AC. Here's to Brian for making it all happen. BTW, I'm surely happy to pay the shipping on my piece. let me know how much and I'll hit you with a paypal payment.

That photo is a FAKE. We all know SH flaps stay up forever. (kozlok ducks...runs for cover)

I'm just done painting my Hasegawa F, and I don't think the fit of it is any great thing, either. I preferred the Revell overall, but i agree that the nose is better on the Hasegawa. The Hasegawa is more fiddly. Just slap the filler on that Revell, sand and re-scribe. It's not as bad as it looks (at least it's easy to get to!) And the flap Nazi's can keep their comments to themselves.

Also be aware that the cheaper grades of oil paint are made up of large amounts of fillers and thickeners, whereas the artists grade have a significantly higher percentage makeup of actual pigments. Any brand will do, but I like Windsor & Newton (Painting is my other hobby). You just need a little tube, so it's really pretty cheap.

One more thing, if you use spray (or airbrush), make sure to wear a mask. Get one rated for organic solvents, they usually are less than $20 at a local hardware store, your brain is worth far more.

Painting with a brush without leaving marks is absolutely possible, and it's just about as easy as voodoo. I've done it over small areas, but never a whole plane. What I did was to paint a small section, and let it set for a couple of minutes or so, then follow up by brushing with a second coat where the paint is mixed with about 60% thinner. The thinner will smooth out the brush strokes. I usually use the lid of the paint jar for mixing, and it works fine. I sometimes follow up with straight thinner after about 20 minutes, when the paint is hard enough to resist a little, but still sof

I looked at a pic of that aircraft here: http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/images/fa18aomarsje_9.jpg I copied a little square of both colors into Corel Draw, and made some color comparisons. The top pair are from the tail of the photo, while the bottom are copied from your picture. It looks to me like your lighter color is pretty good for the darker color, and the lighter one needs to be much lighter. If you ask me, you just need to take the blue color, and mix it with a bunch of white, and it will be just about the right shade for the lighter color. I tried the same thing in Core

Paint and major assembly finished, ready for gloss coat and decals. Still need to decide how dirty to make it!

That is absolutely beautiful. Great work! I bet you enter it in a contest and some judge gripes about the flaps...(just a joke)

Looks really nice, Henry. Good Job!

I'm assuming that this skyhawk was not mismatched since Bob didn't point it out on the sheet. We need pics of the mismatched jets so we can make some! Karl, hook us up! That Viper sounds like it would look neat. I was going to make the leading edge red, but now I'm not as sure. Anyone know for sure on this one (it's BU 152067 with VF-45)? I think the other VF-45 jets have red under there, but I have no reference for this particular plane other than the 2Bobs instructions.