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Everything posted by kozlok

  1. I just bit the bullet and switched to Gunze Mr. Color. There are few more specialized colors I didn't buy, and it ended up being close to a $70 order just to cover my most common colors. You can't mix with MM, but they layer fine as far as I can tell so far with enough drying time.
  2. The paint schemes in the photos I looked at all seem to be the standard F-16 colors. FS36118 (Gunship Gray) and FS36320 (Dark Ghost Gray); where gunship is the darker color. I think there's a 77th FS jet on TwoBobs 1/72 Shaw Vipers sheet 72-033. Here's a review of it: https://www.arcair.com/Rev1/501-600/Rev598-TwoBobs72033/00.shtm It's long out of print, but you may be able to score a sheet by placing a wanted ad here on the forum, or shopping on ebay. You could also try posting an email or PM to Steve Bamford (the site owner; user name SBARC) since he had th
  3. This topic has always been of interest to me, as my other hobby is photography. Here is a photo of an A7 nose, taken with a 21mm lens (moderate wide angle on APS-C). There is a distortion correction algorithm in Lightroom for this lens, which is used to modify the same photo. Taking a trace from one photo, and putting it in the second, you can see the difference in apparent shape of the nose, and this is all caused by lens distortion. This isn't an overly distorted lens, either. Always be cautious of comparing non-corrected photos to models, and declaring the model to be in the wrong.
  4. I didn't read this whole thread. Really, F-15's are my favorite, but I have exactly 1C and 1E on the shelf. I have about 8 F-14's because the Navy markings are more interesting. So for me, as a modeler, the F-14 is more fun for me to model, because of all the different markings, and different weathering opportunities.
  5. You have 34 Hornets..only one of them is an 1/48 F model. Therein lies my dilemma, I have A's and C's and E's...and only one sad lonely F in the stash.
  6. So I was buying some nice Fightertown F-18 decals to add to a bigger order, and thought I'd pick up a couple of extra F model Super Hornets for the stash...None to be found, anywhere! Not Revell or Hasegawa! Squadron, no stock, Sprue Bros., no stock, Amazon, they list a Revell F for $90. What???? for the Revell? I haven't bought a kit in a couple of years, but the last Revell Super Hornet I bought was like $22. I can find E's in Revell and Hase. Even EvilBay has only one F (Revell of Germany, for $40). Anyone know what's up with this nonsense?
  7. I think I would have done the decals over a glossy finish (just paint), and added the metalizer into the final clear coat.
  8. Hadn't seen this until now. I'm in. I have like 4000 different hornets in my to-do stash!
  9. Just an observation, but from an engineering perspective, I wouldn't think that bridge would support 2 tanks on any one span at a time. I'd say you're one tank heavy. Look online at tanks crossing bridges, and you'll see that the spacing is usually quite wide. Like this: This gives a good indication why:
  10. I've started rescribing my kit...I'm so excited!
  11. Using everyone's favorite red-line approach, we conclude that the second nose is much much too blunt. Unacceptable. Won't buy this kit. Sarcasm off.
  12. I looked through the first part of this thread, and I'd like to point out that you can not take a photo with an unknown lens, and compare it to a different photo with a different lens and draw any conclusions at all about accuracy. A case in point. Here is the exact same aircraft, photographed a minute or so apart, with 2 different lenses. These are both modern lenses with not a lot of distortion, but different focal lengths, and even then, not dramatically different. Look at these two images, the differences are bigger than what many are griping about comparing a photo of a model to a vint
  13. Sure there is, I can see it...It says "FUEL" right on it. :lol:
  14. A few from my collection. One from the Air Force museum in Dayton, and 2 from the Navy museum in Pensacola. The shots from Pensacola are shot with my fisheye, so a bit more "fun" than most! IMGP2980.jpg by kozlok2, on Flickr IMGP3818.jpg by kozlok2, on Flickr IMGP3819.jpg by kozlok2, on Flickr
  15. kozlok


    Any thought of doing some Natural Metal F-104s? I just started mine, I love the options on the Hasegawa decals, but they are thick and yellow. Yuck. There are so few choices available. Help me Kursad-wan...you are our only hope.
  16. kozlok


    Topic pretty self explanatory..I'm adding a 1/48 b-58 to the stash to go with the new Caracal sheet. I'm wondering just how many bottles of polished aluminum Alclad should I pick up? I will use other shades over the polished aluminum for variation, but I want enough of the base to go over everything.
  17. The one in Dayton does indeed look to be Yellow Chromate. This was taken in April 2013. IMGP3056.jpg by kozlok2, on Flickr
  18. You should print off extras of the stencil sheet and sell them separately so we can build bunches!
  19. Thanks for the compliment. I discovered Dick Blick Master Kolinsky sables many years ago. They make painting a perfect line a breeze. I wish it were skill, but the only skill I possess is choosing the best paintbrush.
  20. Just a bit of paint and a number 0 sable. I used Model Master RLM04, I liked that it wasn't as bright as pure yellow.
  21. Had the jet more or less done before the decals arrived, got it done tonight. Thanks Kursad for some awesome looking Voodoos! Took some quick snaps on the bench. Will try to set up to take photos on a nicer background later. IMGP5649.jpg by kozlok2, on Flickr IMGP5644.jpg by kozlok2, on Flickr
  22. Got my F-101's today! WOOT WOOT, the jet is 99% done, just waiting for these beauties. Should be 100% by Monday.
  23. To clear up any confusion. 1: paint the aircraft with whatever paint you want, oil or acrylic. If you paint in gloss acrylics, skip step 2. 2: coat with any good gloss acrylic clear coat. If your main paint was enamel or other solvent based paint, make sure it is fully cured before the acrylic clear. I usually wait a week or so. Future is probably available in your country under a different name. Really, though, any acrylic clear works, future is just very nice, and very cheap. 3: wash with enamel paints or oil paints. I like oil paints (for artists) thinned with turpenoid. 4: wait a
  24. Due to colossal stupidity, I have destroyed all of the struts for my 1/48 Eduard Fokker VII. I'm hoping someone out there has a kit which has suffered some sort of calamity, but the struts are still intact. Please PM me, or email to kozlok1 AT gmail DOT com.
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