kozlok
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Posts posted by kozlok
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It's your lucky day. I still have that jet on my sheet. PM inbound
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I might still have a partial on that. I know for sure I used Red 11, but I may have traded others away. Any scheme in particular?
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Tamiya stock decals don't seem to work at all unless the water is quite warm. My wife also bought me a mug warmer, and I use it with a small metal bowl. Works very well.
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Aw man, I got all excited! Good to know not to check the mailbox every day.
This is the world we live in now, nothing any of us can do about it, except to be careful, get vaccinated, and hope for a return to normal.
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And just to be clear, it's the Orange Line Lacquer that I have used.
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I have used it successfully with Mr. Color leveling thinner. I've only used the Hataka twice, though. I have recently purchased more as I quite like their paint colors and they seem as good as Mr. Color as far as application. So far, I find leveling thinner to be great with Tamiya acrylics, Mr Color paint, and Hataka.
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I recently moved my spray area into the house from the garage and my old Craftsman air compressor was obscenely loud. I purchased the CALIFORNIA AIR TOOLS CAT-1P1060SP GAL 56DB Air Compressor from Amazon, and I've had it for a few months now and it was cheap, and very quiet (56 db). Pretty happy with it. It seemed like I would have had to spend a lot more to get something quieter, and this just seems quiet enough for me.
FWIW, my spray booth was a laundry closet. It's about 4' by 4', and even in that small space, the air compressor is quieter than the fans on my extraction hood (Artograph with 2 fans). Yes, I can hear it, but I wouldn't pay more for quieter.
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I've had the same Iwata HPC for going on 20 years, and built many many models with it. After each painting session, empty the brush, give the cup a wipe with a paper towel, and then I fill the cup up with lacquer thinner, turn the pressure up to 30 psi, and discharge the whole cup into my spray booth while tapping my finger on the end of the brush to create momentary back flow. I tap about as fast as my finger will go, and usually have a paper towel over my gloved finger. If there was a lot of paint in the cup, I may need a second rinse.
When I do metallics, I'll do a few partial fills swirling around a bit because there's always a handful of particles that stick around. With white, I'll have to do a second cup full for sure to get it clean.
At the end, I pull my needle back to check for residue, and if there is any, I'll pull the needle out and use a dental brush down the barrel of the brush, and a few swipes on the needle, followed by a little bit of lacquer thinner sprayed through. That's all I've ever done, and there is zero build up, and my seals have never needed changing. I've changed my nozzle once due to a split, and I've changed my needles a couple of times from where I've bent the tips when they were out. No further maintenance has been required.
If paint is on the outside of the brush, I use the paper towel from the tapping operation to wipe down the outside before the thinner dries on it.
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BuNo, I found it on a facebook group. Original Link:
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Was removing the door commonly done on missions? This is the only photo of F-14's I've seen with the covers removed; though in truth I haven't looked for it, either.
Never mind, looks like Home of MATS has the answer.
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Looks to be the all gull grey scheme with larger Stars and Bars. I think the kit decals will be reasonably representative but not 100% accurate.
I don't know of any decals that are Eagle-Claw specific. You'll have to paint the wing stripes probably. Oddly, the covers are missing from both refueling probes. I wonder if it was a mod they did specific for this mission?
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Why so much love for a new A-10? I've built the Monogram, and it looks quite nice if not up to modern fit standards. Hobby Boss is apparently a better fit.
I voted for the F-11 Tiger, just because we don't really have one, but what I really want is a F-8C. Hasegawa really dropped the ball on the early 8's.
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Maybe Dana Bell will loan you his artwork?
http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/a10ajawsschemesdb_1.htm
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I did not see a thumbnail. I did look for it.
Unless it was this one:
http://www.caracalmodels.com/products/images/cd48173tn.jpg
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I've recently acquired an F-8C conversion for the Hasegawa F-8E from Muroc Models. The castings are a little bit rough, but it seems serviceable. Going to start my conversion in the next couple of months.
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There are two things you wrote that might be a clue: Wash with IPA and Handle with Latex gloves. There are compounds in latex that are easily dissolved in IPA, and difficult to remove once deposited on a surface. It could be that something in that brand of paint is sensitive to these compounds. As an experiment, try washing with mild dish soap and water, rinsing with water, and then handle with Nitrile gloves. Nitrile is much less reactive with everything, including IPA. In any case, I would not allow the IPA to contact gloves and then the model.
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I've pondered the color gradient question in that image. I think it's just shadows making it look like a gradation. Here's another image that I think more clearly shows no gradation in the color, but the red outline looks soft, and the yellow looks paler:
Edit: Found another photo
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I'm halfway through building mine...Are you SURE you want one? Fit isn't amazing...It's pretty close to going to the shelf of Doom. I'm also building the 1/48 B-58 in-flight, and the gear doors have been a whole new level of poor fit, so my frustration with putty and sanding is high in general right now.
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To my eye, that looks like Euro I Green instead of 34079 Dark Green. Cool anyway.
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Yes, but availability of that sheet is difficult, and I don't have it. I was hoping you were preparing to re-release at least the Puff jet on a new sheet.
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Any chance this is so you can fit the Booming Intruders sheet to this kit?
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I try to be working on a couple of "great fitting" and a couple of "lousy fitting" models at the same time to keep the hard to build ones off the shelf of doom.
I was thinking the Cougar would be my next ill-fitting kit in rotation. Is there a guide to assembly to minimize the worst of the problems?
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I've been buying Kursad's decals since they were ALPS printed. Not as many recently, as I took a modeling hiatus, but I think I'm getting back in the saddle.
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Do you mean the detailed writeups on Hyperscale by David Aungst?
http://www.hyperscale.com/features/2001/f14constructiondwa_3.htm
These are my bible with building the Hasegawa F-14. I've built a few, didn't seem that painful. Yes, you have to be careful, and no, it's probably not as good as the new Tamiya, but I have a bunch of these, and I plan on building them.
LF Two Bob's - Top Gun Tinker Toys 48-018
in Buy and sell - add scale to your title
Posted
Let me know your regular email address and I will send of high res scans of the instructions. Also, they should have arrived by now? Maybe Tuesday at the latest.
Keith