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kozlok

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Posts posted by kozlok

  1. Because I was bored, I took a stab at color-correction, de-aging and perspective correction.  This is what I came up with.  

     

    My guess is the tips of the feathers and the little triangle used to be much redder, but the paint faded.  I'd guess Insignia red? No basis for that, though.

     

    DZlhUzL.jpg

  2. Building a "Car-Door" Typhoon IB, and the Hasegawa decals are kinda lousy color-wise, so I got a set of TechMod decals.  They are very thin and brittle, and the green/blue/grey tail band decal split into 5 pieces while I was trying to put it on.  I think I'll just masks and paint, but I'm not sure what the correct color is?  I'm normally a Jet guy, but trying some WWII British planes for a bit of something different so I don't know my RAF colors very well. I see references to a bunch of different colors called "sky" or some variation therof, and it's a bit confusing. 

     

    Also, which brand/color of paint is the closest match?  I prefer Mr.Color just because it goes on so nicely, but am equipped to deal with most any enamel/lacquer/acrylic.

     

    On the other hand, I have some Testors MM DuckEgg blue; maybe I should see if it's close.

  3. Does anyone know if Muroc models is still in business?  I'm returning to the hobby after a few years of low-effort; and I have a hankering to do a F8C in VF-84 colors.  Already have the decals, but no way to convert to a C.  I saw that Muroc made a set some years ago; also Cutting Edge did as well; but I think they are long gone.  Any other player in the F8C business I might have missed?  

  4. The paint schemes in the photos I looked at all seem to be the standard F-16 colors.  FS36118 (Gunship Gray) and FS36320 (Dark Ghost Gray); where gunship is the darker color.  

     

    I think there's a 77th FS jet on TwoBobs 1/72 Shaw Vipers sheet 72-033.  Here's a review of it:  

    https://www.arcair.com/Rev1/501-600/Rev598-TwoBobs72033/00.shtm

     

    It's long out of print, but you may be able to score a sheet by placing a wanted ad here on the forum, or shopping on ebay. You could also try posting an email or PM to Steve Bamford (the site owner; user name SBARC) since he had the review sheet, he may still have that jet on a partial sheet. 

     

     

     

  5. This topic has always been of interest to me, as my other hobby is photography.  Here is a photo of an A7 nose, taken with a 21mm lens (moderate wide angle on APS-C).  There is a distortion correction algorithm in Lightroom for this lens, which is used to modify the same photo. Taking a trace from one photo, and putting it in the second, you can see the difference in apparent shape of the nose, and this is all caused by lens distortion. This isn't an overly distorted lens, either.  Always be cautious of comparing non-corrected photos to models, and declaring the model to be in the wrong. 

    IMGP3886.jpg

     

    IMGP3886-2.jpg

     

     

    IMGP3886-Edit.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  6. I didn't read this whole thread.  Really, F-15's are my favorite, but I have exactly 1C and 1E on the shelf.  I have about 8 F-14's because the Navy markings are more interesting.  So for me, as a modeler, the F-14 is more fun for me to model, because of all the different markings, and different weathering opportunities. 

  7. I know where a few of them can be found. . . . B)/>/>/>/>/>/>

    IMG_3138_zpso5v3rfln.jpg

    Yes . . . . I have a problem! :rolleyes:/>/>

    You have 34 Hornets..only one of them is an 1/48 F model. Therein lies my dilemma, I have A's and C's and E's...and only one sad lonely F in the stash.

  8. So I was buying some nice Fightertown F-18 decals to add to a bigger order, and thought I'd pick up a couple of extra F model Super Hornets for the stash...None to be found, anywhere! Not Revell or Hasegawa! Squadron, no stock, Sprue Bros., no stock, Amazon, they list a Revell F for $90. What???? for the Revell? I haven't bought a kit in a couple of years, but the last Revell Super Hornet I bought was like $22. I can find E's in Revell and Hase.

    Even EvilBay has only one F (Revell of Germany, for $40).

    Anyone know what's up with this nonsense?

  9. Just an observation, but from an engineering perspective, I wouldn't think that bridge would support 2 tanks on any one span at a time. I'd say you're one tank heavy.

    Look online at tanks crossing bridges, and you'll see that the spacing is usually quite wide. Like this:

    pzIVcrossingDon_zps9f2ad4d8.jpg

    131712371.jpg

    This gives a good indication why:

    6_15_2008104043PM_6288805262.jpg

  10. Using everyone's favorite red-line approach, we conclude that the second nose is much much too blunt. Unacceptable. Won't buy this kit. Sarcasm off.

    13891528677_d2fe7e9eb0_c.jpg

  11. I looked through the first part of this thread, and I'd like to point out that you can not take a photo with an unknown lens, and compare it to a different photo with a different lens and draw any conclusions at all about accuracy. A case in point. Here is the exact same aircraft, photographed a minute or so apart, with 2 different lenses. These are both modern lenses with not a lot of distortion, but different focal lengths, and even then, not dramatically different. Look at these two images, the differences are bigger than what many are griping about comparing a photo of a model to a vintage photo of an aircraft.

    The shots are taken so that the framing is quite close to the same. Notice that each engine cowl is about the same distance from the edge of the frame. The cockpit is in about the same place in the frame. If you overlaid these two photos, you'd say that one or the other was "inaccurate". Look at the apparent difference in the front strut length, or the curvature of the nose. It's the same exact plane, same camera, same photographer, only the lens changed.

    Remember too that these two lenses are actually close in focal length, made by the same company, similar distortion characteristics. It can get much worse than this.

    11767720963_a9f30f9630_z.jpg;

    11767613953_cdbb50f8c4_z.jpg[/url];

    Here's a better comparison: The exact same photograph: one copy has the lens distortion corrected using LightRoom, one does not. Look at the differences in curvature. Look how much closer the corrected nose comes to the edge of the photo. This photo was taken with a Pentax DA21. It's considered to be a relatively low distortion lens. Much better than the typical zoom lenses on consumer grade cameras. A million times better than any lens made in the 40's.

    14078480574_b44a161dc8_z.jpg

    14098047953_fe72c37b55_z.jpg[/url]

  12. Any thought of doing some Natural Metal F-104s? I just started mine, I love the options on the Hasegawa decals, but they are thick and yellow. Yuck. There are so few choices available.

    Help me Kursad-wan...you are our only hope.

  13. Topic pretty self explanatory..I'm adding a 1/48 b-58 to the stash to go with the new Caracal sheet. I'm wondering just how many bottles of polished aluminum Alclad should I pick up? I will use other shades over the polished aluminum for variation, but I want enough of the base to go over everything.

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