kozlok

Why no-go from Revell? I think that specific kit won't be in their inventory, but if you use the kit number of the current blue-angels boxing, and pay the shipping fee, I'm sure you'd get them. The B/A boxing is kit number 5820. The part numbers will all be the same.

Nice job. I've been wanting to do a Demon....How was it?

I'd guess about 8 lbs per gallon, more or less. I end up with about 1 or 2 cups full of clear all said and done on a typical big jet (Iwata HP-C), so say 1/3 to 2/3 fluid oz. That's about .02-.04lb, or between 9 and 19 grams

OK, I'm going to ask a question from the other end of the limit. The 94th Aero sqd. painted their aircraft in a variety of gaudy schemes for the immediate post-WWI period. I'm assuming from the limits imposed that these DO qualify? If so, I might just yank out a SPAD and get in this game! like this: or

Here's my entry. More pics in my progress thread. Link

And she's done. Decided on a max loadout. OK, so the drag would be unbearable with this configuration, but it looks impressive on my shelf!

D'anna indicated that only 4 of the 5 were in the fleet, and I took it to mean that the 5th was somewhere on the base star at that moment (or somehow elsewhere?). Her comment went by quickly, but I noticed it.

I think I'm in, but I'm not sure what the GB rules are. Any USMC Hornet OK? Anyway, I'm planning on using MAW's Mach Altus Crusaders decals, and haven't decided if I'll put them on a Monogram or Hasegawa (1/48)

You should contact the importer for your country. In the US, it's Dragonmodels USA. I've ordered entire sprues of pa. They rts from them before. I've always had to pay, but it was because I had already used the parts for other projectsreally are very helpful. e-mail them at: sales@dragonmodelsusa.com

My experience is that Great Models is NOT the place to go when you are in a hurry. The have great selection, great prices, and mediocre service. Sprue Bros. has phenomenal service, less selection (but most of what I need) and very slightly higher prices (sometimes). I usually order from them anyway, because I like to know that there is someone who cares at the other end of my e-mail.

The easiest thing to do is just buy Gunze Mr. Surfacer, in either 500 or 1000 depending on how thin you want it. If it's too thin, leave the lid off for a day, if it's too thick, squirt some lacquer thinner in. I use 1000 for all my seam work, love the stuff. Use an old small brush (synthetic) to put it on.

I don't have my ref's right here with me, but I don't think there's any such thing as VF-84 in light grey. VF-103 has them, though in the Fightertown decals I referenced.

Haven't ever seen decals of that scheme. I like it...someone should do it

Get Fightertown decals number 48-017. 48-017 Use this link for the order page It's VF-103, but should be close enough for a what-if. You could also try to get ahold of superscale sheet 48-1039. It's getting hard to come by. The other VF-84 low-vis sheets are even harder to come by, and you'll pay dearly for them. If it's got to be VF-84, try e-bay.

Hmmm....I already glued the Phoenix adapters on the pylons, so I guess I'm stuck. The markings will be VF-84 (VF-Decals Flag Tail markings).

Construction is basically done, and the base Camo is applied.

Hasegawa 1/48th kit with TwoBobs decals. Decals worked super, as expected. Not up to the level of some around here, but I'm really pleased with it.

I'm building an Operation Desert Storm era F-14, and want Phoenix missiles on the pylons. Would they be white or Ghost Grey?

Here's my nearly completed Harrier (1/48). Hasegawa kit, TwoBobs decals. Still need to touch up odds and ends and hang things to go Boom. Thinking about an LGB for sure, maybe a snakeye.

When the A-10's were in the Lizard scheme, were the pylons painted to match the camo pattern, or were they all one color?

I usually dunk the nose in Mr. Surfacer 500 once or twice, let it harden and sand to shape. It's really very little work, and it looks fantastic.

When I have this problem (more often than I should), I just drill a hole in the top of the nose, somewhere well away from any panel lines, and dump the fishing weights in. I dip them in super glue beforehand, and tip the jet nose-down as I insert them. They find the pointy end, and the superglue holds them still. It's easy to know when to stop, just check every few pieces to see when it balances. Then fill the hole with a piece of sprue and tenax, a little putty, and then you'll never know.

OK, here are un-puttied pics of the wing to fuselage seam. I have heard of many people having problems with this area. All I did was test fit, and file. Then used Tenax and a little push. No need for putty at all. Still some shiny spots from the Tenax that need a bit of sanding, but I wanted you guys to see it in its unadulterated state. I've used the same process throughout, and the fit really isn't all that bad for the most part. Top: Bottom: Other wing fits just as well, but I wanted the first one to set up well before pushing the second one on. I'm not sure if there is

Here's major assembly completed. Started to fix the seams. From all I've heard and seen, I expected the fit to be worse than it was. Careful fitting and filing, and some extra Tenax seems to have gone a long way to minimizing seam work. Can't decide on a scheme. I think I'm going Charcoal Lizard so I don't have to rescribe. In the Lizard pic's I've seen, the panel lines just seem much less pronounced, so the rescribed lines/wash won't be missed.

I have seen at least 3 different schemes: One was with relatively small blue flames. One has very long red and white flames (with a blue field up front), and one has shorter red and white flames, and the stripes are mismatched at the nose. Here's a pic of the third one. I think the second one is what you have decals for. (It's also on the box cover for the 1/48 Hasegawa "Stars and Stripes" boxing of the F-18 C. I couldn't find a pic online of the second one, but it's on my Hasegawa box plain as day. By the way, I did the one in the picture in 1/48, and with twobobs decals and plenty