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tbell

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About tbell

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    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)
  • Birthday 02/17/1967

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    Brampton, Ontario, Canada
  1. Looking good. I used the injection molded ignition harness on mine and wish I had taken the time to replace it with solder. As you may already be aware, the openings on the engine cowls are too small. They should be 3/4" in diameter (the real thing was exactly 3'). A few minutes work with some rolled up 400 grit sandpaper should do the trick. It's more accurate and you'll be able to see more of that nifty engine work. Cheers, Tony
  2. Stellar work as usual, Yves. I hope you'll be able to make it to Hamilton with it so I can see it in person. Cheers, Tony Bell
  3. I have the AFV Club F-5E/F-5N Sundowners kit that I would like to trade for the Kinetic F-5A/CF-5A/NF-5A Freedon Fighter. Both parties to pay postage. I'll also throw in a Falcon vacuform canopy (designed for the old Monogram F-5E, but it might be made to fit). Let me know if you're interested! Cheers, Tony Bell
  4. Hi Yves, I'm a little late to this thread, but if you're still stuck for the camera pod "X", I can cut you a mask so you can simply paint it. Lemme know... Cheers, Tony Bell
  5. tbell

    Spitfire MK PR XI

    The Falcon vacuform triple-conversion (which includes fuselages for the PR.XI, Mk.XII and bubbletop Mk.XVI) is a great starting point. You can use any decent Mk.IX (Eduard, ICM) as the basis, fill & rescribe the wings and graft the nose of the Falcon fuselage. If you want a truly accurate PR.XI though, you will need to form your own windscreen. The windscreen in the Falcon conversion is more appropriate for the PR.XIX in that it has a curved front whereas for the XI it needs to be flat (picture a Mk.I windscreen but without the external armoured glass). I did mine using the Falcon conversion, but based it on the Tamiya Mk.V since there weren't any good XIs at the time. Cheers, Tony
  6. Hey folks, I just picked up the new Avant Garde Models Kfir, but I really like the scheme offered in the Italeri kit for A/C no. 882. If anyone has the aircraft specific markings left over, I'll gladly take 'em off your hands. Located in Canada near Toronto... Cheers, Tony Bell
  7. Hi Ken, Great! I'll go ahead and order the decals, but I won't ask you for money until I'm ready to send them off to you. Drop me a PM with your mailing address... Cheers, Tony
  8. I have achieved decent results using Gunze Mr Surfacer 1000 as a primer for the "regular" shades of Alclad. I thin the Surfacer with Tamiya Lacquer thinner and airbrush it on. Once dry I wet sand it with 2000 and 3600 grit cloths and then buff with an old tee shirt. For the Highly Polished Aluminum, Krylon Fusion gloss black works well. Krylon is a bit hot, so I prefer to apply it over a coat of Mr. Surfacer applied as described above. Also, in order to control the paint flow better I decant the Krylon and airbrush it, as opposed to spraying straight from the can. As with the Mr. Surfacer, I buff and polish the Krylon before spraying the Alclad. Tamiya gloss black spray lacquer (NOT the acrylic in the bottle!) works well too, and doesn't need a primer underneath. The downside is that, in my experience, the Alclad doesn't adhere as well to the Tamiya and makes for a more delicate finish. For an intermediate shine somewhere between the regular shades and the high shine shades, you can over spray the regular with the high shine (e.g. Highly Polished over top of White Aluminum). Cheers, Tony
  9. Hi Dak, The main goal is to apply decals over a glossy finish in order to prevent "silvering" (i.e. minute quantities of air trapped beneath) of the clear carrier film. You can either paint your model with gloss colours in the first place , or you can paint your model in flat colours and apply a clear gloss over top. The former is not usually an option as most hobby paint military colours are flat. For the latter, you have several options. Future is a popular clear gloss, as is Testors Glosscote (careful with paint compatibility, though). Tamiya X22 clear gloss acrylic works well, as does Tamiya clear in the spray can. Mask your clear bits and apply your camouflage colours however you prefer (hand brush, airbrush, spray can, or whatever), let dry apply your clear gloss. You may need a couple of coats to get an acceptably smooth finish. Again, let dry and apply your decals. Once the decals are dry it's best to apply one more coat of clear gloss to "seal" the decals and create a uniform finish. Next apply a clear flat to restore the matte finish. You have several choices for your clear flat, including Testors Dullcote (same caution as above), Polly Scale clear flat (the new formulation isn't that great, to be honest), Humbrol matte clear, or my favourite, Vallejo Model Air. Finally, remove your clear parts masks. Hope this helps, Tony
  10. I'm looking to get my hands on the 3rd scheme, but I doubt I'll be building more than one Skyray: So how 'bout this: I buy the decals from Furball's eBay store, you then pay me half the total cost and I mail you all the decals except for scheme #3. Total cost to you would be $13.50 Any takers? Cheers, Tony
  11. The Bandy Papers (Three Cheers for Me, That's Me in the Middle, It's Me Again) by Donald Jack.
  12. I use artists' oils over acrylics. I start by spraying Tamiya Flesh (a pinkish tan). Next I mix up a suitable brown shade of oil paints using Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna, Mars Brown, black, etc. No two mixes are ever the same. I add some Japan Dryer to speed up the drying time and then brush a thin layer of the oils over the Tamiya, working it until I get a colour density that looks good. Again it's never the same way twice. The final step is to take a couple of broad, soft brushes and start stippling and working the oil paint to smooth it out and subtly remove it from the high points for a worn effect. The beauty of the oil paint is that you can work it for literally hours. Once I'm happy with the look I set it aside for a week to dry, which is the one major drawback. Hope this helps. Cheers, Tony
  13. Krylon is best decanted from the spray bomb and airbrushed on for two reasons: one, as mentioned above, it's a bit hot and best results are achieved over a coat of primer (I use Mr. Surfacer 1000), and two, it goes on too heavy out of the can.
  14. How about The Dawn Patrol? Also in the WWI vein, I thought Der Rote Baron (The Red Baron) was pretty good, especially when compared to Flyboys.
  15. If it's being judged to IPMS rules, then the accuracy of the finish is not (or at least should not be) a factor. The quality and consistency of the finish are what the judges should be considering. The only way accuracy would be taken into account is if two entries are equivalent in every other aspect of workmanship.
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