Timmy!

Hey all, I'm looking for some detail shots of the main and nose gearwells of this jet. I have exhausted the www.internet thingy and am looking to tap somebody's stash of photos. My workshop is hard down right now so I'm in full research and plan drawing mode for future projects until I can build again. Any and all help will be greatly apprciated. Timmy!

Gonna go with pressure at the start. While I have no first hand experience, from my research so far, vacuum only is worthwhile if your rig can pull 29". That does not appear to be a cheap option - or frankly fit in my very small work/storage space (drawback of city living). In the same research, pressure can and does work, though not the ideal method. We'll see - it'll be an adventure! Timmy!

I have considered that in the event there is enough interest and I fail at casting. As for the Jag. I will get to it - I'm building a scratch ship right now, the USS Truett and Knox class frigate. I was hoping to have that completed by now and be on to the Jag - but life is getting in the way. I have changed careers and moved in the last few months. So I've turned to this short term project (GBUs) as it fits in the available modeling time right now. Timmy!

Alexander, The rivets are made with small amounts of JB Weld applied with a tooth pick. Not sure yet. Gotta make good casts first! Few weeks to a month if all goes well - no promises though. Thanks for the encouragement! Mark, You hit the nail on the head! That is where I am headed this weekend! Thanks! :huh: I'm hoping my compressor which can make 30psi will make the grade..if not I'll have to look for more change in the couch cushions! Thanks all, Timmy!

GW, I am still working on the molds and making perfect casts. Casts made so far have suffered from bubbles and incomplete casting. Too much detail to do these without a pressure vessel - which I am working on acquiring. I have started on the instruction sheets and decals. The castings I have made so far would be good enough for me in that I can fix the problems with the castings, but I wouldn't want offer them in that condition. Timmy!

Slick, Your interior looks convincing - good work! I think what is going on is the kit parts are molded with the roof sound proofing installed. Your rfferences are showing the sound proofing removed. As sound proofing is pita it has been removed in the last few years. The ducting you are talking about is for heat. At the fwd end of the cabin the the ducts join and feed up into the doghouse to the heater which is located next to the APP. Hope that answers a few of your questions. Timmy!

Sorry GW! Just hadn't got there yet. That is one goal for these parts. I want to do it right - so I have to make sure the castings work, and get instruction sheets and decals done too! More to follow shortly...but they are my current focus. Thanks! Timmy!

Here is a little side project I've been working on for a few weekends. I have a quasi-commission build for a pair of F-15Es for an E driver and buddy of mine. In fact I'm going to be helping him build his own. Only problem is he wants some GBU-12 on the jet - but none to be found aftermarket. So I built some. Thanks to Gunner Swanberg - I got my hands on a pair from an Academy F-16 kit. Here are the pics.... The kit parts - already masterfully assembled and painted, but the previous owner. Using both bombs, the main parts are separated. There is interior detail, included in the fin

PM for you on the Tamiya 1/32 F-15E. Timmy!

Any one got some spares from say an Academy F-16 kit. I need 4 in total. Can't seem to find anything aftermarket that's not navy. Building a Strike Eagle for a USAF buddy of mine. Thanks in advance, Timmy!

Guy, Here's a suggestion. How about VF-302, in TPS? Looks like you would need to build the old beaver tail. Markings could even be done with frisket and paint. (Sorry Brian, for the suggestion). Here a link to the bird, from the MATS site. VF-302 TPS Bird. Timmy!

Pierre, That paint work is amazing! I love your breadth of subjects too! Timmy!

Guy, GREAT WORK!!!! I really like the subject! Thanks for sharing you technique for finishing the burner cans - very realistic. Congrats so far, I'll be watching closely. Timmy!

Well, as usual in projects like this I'm doing things twice. I assume this to be constant in scratch building - so I expect it. I got my hands on a flight manual, which despite being pretty dern close, the manual highlighted some shape and position issues with most of the cockpit. So I had to redo the instrument panel, and consoles - and therefore the artwork for the photo etch parts and decals. Oh well it's done now. I did move on to the nose gear and gear well, which are pretty much complete. I have some decal and photo etch art work to do and then I'll be on to the midsection of the f

Off to a good start! Glad to see you posting your builds again. Timmy!

Simon is back... Step 7. The intermediate markings are then scaled to the smaller of the two circles previously created. Step 8. Text is added and guide circles deleted. Step 9. Needle and off flags are added. Step 10. Fills are added. Black for the panel surface and white for the needle. Step 11. Line color switched to white and lines removed from needle and panel. Rinse and repeat for the rest of the dials. Timmy!

OK here you go. Step 1. Capture the surface from the 3-d model. Step 2. The surface is rotated to align to the 2-d layer (red outline). Then the instruments and swithes etc. are drawn in. Because these will be printed and to make the lettering easier the surface was scaled by 400%. It will be later printed at 25%, which gets back to the original size. Step 3. Add data. This done with the text function, choosing a font and point size that fits. Having the drawing at 400% allows for usable text sizes - for this one 3 and 4 point test sizes were used. Step 4. This is how the i

Matt, Yep I have thought of all of the above. I suppose if I was going to create a kit to be mass produced I'd go that way. This time I'm going to build by hand. I almost think that if all I have to do is have someone else hit a print button - is it really modeling skill? Timmy!

Here are some more progress shots - I hope this not getting redundant. Here is the completed seat. Rendered view. 2-d of the side, top, back and front. The "exploded" parts are the extracted faces form the 3-d seat, which have been detailed in 2-d. Some of the decal art work for the cockpit. Here is the artwork for most of the cockpit's photo etched parts. These drawings are for panel line placement. I took the surfaces from the 3-d part and cut them up at the panel lines. By rendering the model with these lines I can check them against reference photos. I have already fo

Here is a quick update. I have finished the HUD and instrument panels. The basic seat has been created. I am not going for a complete 3d model here, just accurate shapes and using the 3d functionality to make sure the parts will fit. Necessary detail is transferred to a 2d sheet, by using the section functions of VectorWorks and some manually transferred. The shapes are then more precisely detailed in 2d. The Seat. The Seat and HUD. Looking in the cockpit. 2d sheet for ultimate construction. That's it for now. Timmy!

That's a loaded question. I started with Vectorworks and found a Beta version tryout for Mac. Probably the hardest part is learning the tools and how they work. My projects have been slow at first with lots of trial and error and consulting the manuals. With-in a month or two I got pretty quick - though there is certainly more to learn. These programs are a lot like building models, you learn tricks and techniques as you go and you get better and better. To sum up these are complex programs with lots of capability - and cost. You can do simple stuff quickly, as the models get more tools

Nope - just an obsessive need to acquire new tools and techniques. I would like to build professionally one day - haven't figured out how to get clients though. Timmy!

It's a long story, but I wanted to try 1/16th, as I wanted to push the detail a step further with some operable components like flaps and gear, but it would be just too big. 1/20th scale is a compromise - I don't know yet it I'm going to still do operable parts, but with the bigger size I can push the detail further. As for the photos of the OV-10 there was so much coverage of it buy other ARCers and others who took photos of it at the Nats this year, that I thought close-ups were all that was necessary. Kap64's IPMS Nationals Photos Zmey's IPMS Nationals Photos Anthony Wan's IPMS Natio

Quit dude! I've seen what you build, and you sir, are no slouch! (What are the dues in the mutual appreciation society? Are there initiations or worse, hazing?) Glad to share! I hope we all can learn from this one. Timmy!

Hello all, I'm doing it to myself again. I have decided on my next long-term project - a Jaguar. I do so hope that it will not take as long as my OV-10, but I though my OV-10 would take half as long as it did. I am making my drawings from scratch with the aid of 3d cad software, which is a first for me. My goal is to draw the parts first then build - to me it seems easier to make sure the parts fit and look right in the drawings then build them. Already I'm finding that as I add parts, I can verify that the previously drawn parts are in scale. In other words I am verifying that part a l