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Flyboy3394

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Everything posted by Flyboy3394

  1. I actually did both of those things. I think I just sprayed heavy too soon after the tack coat. Lessons learned.
  2. I use Alclad gloss black base as my base for their chrome. Generally it works quite well for me. This time I got an interesting phenomenom I am unfamilair with. I sprayed pretty heavily and while the gloss came out, it did create a channel in some of the parts/panel lines (see photos attached): The obvious spots are in the vent areas (lower portion of part, red color). My question is whether I can spray a light coat over these parts (there are... many) to fill in those gaps and ensure full chrome coverage? Or do I spray the chrome and deal with the tiny gaps as is
  3. Well a pretty major setback has struck: Whilst in the final stage of polishing my canopy with polishing compound, I applied too much pressure to the inside with my finger, causing a noticable split/crack right down the center of the whole rear section. Im gutted. It was so pretty and then I pull a bull in a china shop move like this. Question for the crew here.... Can I fill in the gap with this? Also, Eduard sent me the SU-27UB canopy masks, not the SU-33 one. So now... well... im not too sure where to go from here....
  4. Update: Intakes installed: Wings installed (sort of): One wing had a split section up front for some reason. So I had to fill it in with putty. Fixed: I have sanded/polished and futured the canopy and will post final pics of that tonight. Next steps are masking the canopy, installing it, and beginning the prshading process. Bit nervous about that, but I recently bought a Badger Krome that sprays Tamiya flat black really nicely. Just need to really refine my technique and air pressure
  5. Update: Cockpit is done and main fuselage assembled: Ref pic with foot pedals shown Display installed Cockpit tub in: Fuselage halves glued together and wings also glued together. Going with the flaps down for takeoff. Next up is installing the nose and horizontal stabs, and then preshading!
  6. The Coffey Malt is my #1 favorite all around, aside from the Fukano Sherry cask. Sorry for the tangent, but I love my whiskies.
  7. Tonight was less productive: I did get the intake sections built: I managed to get the seatbelts on there, man was that a pain. Still have the lower ones to install and a myriad of other PE bits. Really tough to work with in this scale. All my time was devoted to the PE so very little other progress was made.... Till next time.
  8. Spent a lot of time acquiring it. But now doc says I gotta go dry for 2 months! on the plus side, gonna get me one of these once i end the 2 months!
  9. Update: Began the PE process. First I cut off bits of the tub and scraped down the detail inside (not shown): Next I placed the PE bits in: Color does not match unfortunately. Not sure what I can do about this now..... Then the pedals were inserted (terribly difficult to bend and work with these): The display came out really nicely: I am now working on the HUD, ejector seat (adding seatbelts and armrests) and working on all other major detail bits in the cockpit. It is definitely already looking a whole lot b
  10. Question: Before gluing in my PE set into the cockpit, do I need to scrap down the existing buttons/ display monitors/guages to fit the PE in a realistic looking manner? Or should i just glue it directly on top of the features as the exist now?
  11. Should be as easy as attaching a small strip of string to the ejector seat and canopy interior. Good way to make my model a bit more detailed! Thanks!
  12. Yeah the heat staining is really tricky to do right. Easy to overdo them, but then its not realistic without them. I think I have a plan, but I will do that after i paint the rest of the plane. Let me know what your process is and we can swap strategies!
  13. I appreciate the interest and your advice! I'd love to see some of what you're doing with yours too! A lot of me wishes I went 1/48th scale. My shakey hands make small models.... difficult.
  14. I see! Thanks for the ref pic. I was combing google and couldnt find rear facing views of the cockpit. I plan to have canopy down, so maybe not worth scraping the raised bits off and repainting.
  15. Thanks for the heads up on that! For the rear of the tub, wont that section be covered up by that other bit i painted in flanker blue (not sure what its called, but it goes inside the cockpit under the glass)?
  16. And we're off! Cockpit tub, display and inner/upper fuselage painted in MM Flanker Blue Grey: Hard to see the blue/grey here, as the red really pops out far more. Red was MM Insignia Red enamel. I stupidly forgot the front gear bay, so I will have to go back tonight and finish that. Next is the exhaustr intakes: Done in MM Gunship Grey enamel. Maybe a bit too dark but oh well, itll pop! I forgot to take pictures of the bits painted black, including the ejector seats, tailhook (base color) and intaKe panels (base t
  17. Beginning a new build thread for my Trumpeter SU-33 Flanker D. I will be doing a gear down, on the deck build. Only aftermarket parts I will use is the Eduard colored PE cockpit set, for displays and seatbelts, etc. I will use the MIG SU-33 paint set for the external camo, and some various MM enamels for the LG bays and wheels. Exhausts will be painted using Alclad metallics. Most of the bits collected. This is my second SU-33 build, the first being a Zvezda SU-33 in 1/72, painted in a fictional splinter camo scheme. Thanks for having a look
  18. Here it is up on the stand! The biggest letdowns on my part were the wingtip pylons, which broke over and over: Overall, lots of problem areas as this was technically my first kit. Learned a lot, and now will take that knowledge and use it for this: Will be doing a real SU-33 build, gear down, wings down, in the Russian Navy color/camo scheme. I also ordered the Eduard colored PE set for this to really make the cockpit pop and look real!
  19. Update: Model is done! Not as good as id hoped, but its done and I am moving on to the next project with major knowledge of what and what not to do! And here is the stand I made with clear acrylic tubing and a display base for gundam models. I will be painting the base grey to mask the imperfections left from gluing the tubes in. Little supports underneath: I will post final pics of it on the stand next.
  20. Update: Panel Wash on top is mostly done: I used Abteillung black enamel paint with mineral spirits to thin it. The panel lines are pretty shallow so much of them were wiped away when I attempted to clean the wash off. I also bagan mounting the missile stations, which proved to be a bear. Probably should have just mounted them when I first built the frame, pre-paint. I am thinking final steps are coming soon. Finish mounting pylons and missiles, install cockpit glass, and hit it with one last clear coat. As for the mount, I am think
  21. Yeah it ended up being the clear coat itself. Its lacquer and the paint i used was an enamel gloss primer, so they just reacted. I solved it by leaving the masking on until I had clear coated over it. Made the black stay in place and seal nicely.
  22. So I use MM enamels. I definitely had some snafus with thinning on this bird. I also made a real stupid gametime decision about spraying more paint in one spot to denote weathering. Dunno what i was thinking. That was the root of all the problems that happened later on. So yeah, little bit of both. I use the Alclad clears (pre-thinned). For this one, I used the lacquer gloss. Have had better luck in the past with the Aqua Gloss (acrylic). Also, the decals really were a major pain here. Super brittle and not great quality. Do not mold to curves well at al.
  23. Thanks! The Alclads sprayed really nicely. Especially given how cold it was when I sprayed. I did heat the paint bottles up a bit, and cranked my space heater to make sure the paint behaved the way i wanted it to. I have found the key with the Alclads is the gloss base. It needs to be perfect, or as near to perfect as possible. I usually spray it, then cover it for at least 24 hours to let it fully dry and avoid getting airborne particles in the fresh paint. I have 8 Alclad NMF and other paints, so I am well invested in them as of now.
  24. Excellent advice sir! I wish i had thouht of this the first 3 times they broke off.
  25. No, I built mine from a Zvezda kit, not the Hasegawa Ace Combat kit, which comes with a stand.
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