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Flyboy3394

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Posts posted by Flyboy3394

  1. Well a pretty major setback has struck:

     

    Whilst in the final stage of polishing my canopy with polishing compound, I applied too much pressure to the inside with my finger, causing a noticable split/crack right down the center of the whole rear section. Im gutted. It was so pretty and then I pull a bull in a china shop move like this. 

    RDYdzPK.jpg 

     

    Question for the crew here.... Can I fill in the gap with this? 

    4VoS5Yd.jpg

     

    Also, Eduard sent me the SU-27UB canopy masks, not the SU-33 one. So now... well... im not too sure where to go from here.... 

  2. Update: 

    Intakes installed: 

    Psm2VT8.jpg

    jVUt94a.jpg

    hZoz2Q1.jpg

     

    Wings installed (sort of): 

    P8xM8MO.jpg

     

    One wing had a split section up front for some reason. So I had to fill it in with putty. 

    WtqIvxK.jpg

    0vZSO4r.jpg

    Fixed: 

    7JuZPiT.jpg

    NQruYHW.jpg

     

    I have sanded/polished and futured the canopy and will post final pics of that tonight. 

     

    Next steps are masking the canopy, installing it, and beginning the prshading process. Bit nervous about that, but I recently bought a Badger Krome that sprays Tamiya flat black really nicely. Just need to really refine my technique and air pressure/thinner mix so I get small lines and not big paint blobs. Any advice on that front is appreciated! 

     

    Zach

  3. Update: Cockpit is done and main fuselage assembled: 

     

    l0DKoMz.jpg

    Ref pic with foot pedals shown

     

    SwbgnN9.jpg

    bMfZaLB.jpg

    kjESL2H.jpg

    Display installed

     

    StVgXGa.jpg

    N7l6KRr.jpg

    Cockpit tub in:

     

    tfn7mkk.jpg

    Fuselage halves glued together and wings also glued together. Going with the flaps down for takeoff. 

     

    Next up is installing the nose and horizontal stabs, and then preshading! 

     

  4. 4 hours ago, Collin said:

    Highly recommend the Nikka Coffee Malt as mentioned above. 

     

    Now back to models and other related discussions...

     

    cheers

    collin

    The Coffey Malt is my #1 favorite all around, aside from the Fukano Sherry cask. Sorry for the tangent, but I love my whiskies. 

     

     

  5. Tonight was less productive: 

     

    I did get the intake sections built: 

    fpakEdK.jpg

     

    I managed to get the seatbelts on there, man was that a pain. 

    hrqfiJ0.jpg 

     

    Still have the lower ones to install and a myriad of other PE bits. Really tough to work with in this scale. 

     

    All my time was devoted to the PE so very little other progress was made.... 

     

    Till next time. 

  6. Update: 

     

    Began the PE process. First I cut off bits of the tub and scraped down the detail inside (not shown):

    KoArHre.jpg

    Next I placed the PE bits in: 

    ZPKUeH7.jpg

    Color does not match unfortunately. Not sure what I can do about this now.....

     

    Then the pedals were inserted (terribly difficult to bend and work with these): 

    aVfLOw1.jpg

     

    The display came out really nicely: 

    9a8oPEb.jpg

     

    I am now working on the HUD, ejector seat (adding seatbelts and armrests) and working on all other major detail bits in the cockpit. It is definitely already looking a whole lot better than my last SU33.... 

     

    Stay Tuned.... 

  7. On 5/18/2018 at 3:39 AM, Flankerman said:

    Mstor/Nazarov's photo of the canopy also shows an item missed by super-detailers - especially in the larger scales.

     

    Note the bungee-type chord connecting the seat to the internal canopy frame.

     

    I think this is a seat arming mechanism - when the canopy is blown off, the bungee arms the seat for ejection.

     

    The chord is difficult to replicate - as you have to try and fit it before you attach the canopy - especially if you display the canopy closed .......:woot.gif:

     

    But it is quite prominent - once you know it is there.

     

    Ken

     

    Should be as easy as attaching a small strip of string to the ejector seat and canopy interior. Good way to make my model a bit more detailed! Thanks!

  8. 38 minutes ago, Mstor said:

    Right now I am hemming and hawing over what to do with the bare metal areas and how to replicate the heat stained areas. This is the first time I have tried something like this and it is very slow going. It doesn't help that my work area is a mess. Maybe I'll post some pics once I get past this road block, but I have never posted any in progress stuff before (like I said, my work area is a mess, I mean, really a mess 🤤 ).

    Yeah the heat staining is really tricky to do right. Easy to overdo them, but then its not realistic without them. I think I have a plan, but I will do that after i paint the rest of the plane. Let me know what your process is and we can swap strategies! 

  9. 1 minute ago, Mstor said:

     

    Yea, if its going to be down, don't bother with round areas, you won't see them. Carry on my friend. I am anxious to see your Su-33 take shape. It is one of my favorite aircraft. I am currently (slowly) working on a 1/48 Kinetic Su-33.

    I appreciate the interest and your advice! I'd love to see some of what you're doing with yours too! A lot of me wishes I went 1/48th scale. My shakey hands make small models.... difficult. 

  10. Just now, Mstor said:

     

    Yes, IF you are going to close up the cockpit. That "other bit" is attached to the canopy, so when the canopy is up, the deck area in question is very visible.  Here's a pic of that area...

     

    6061V01233n8A639

     

    I see! Thanks for the ref pic. I was combing google and couldnt find rear facing views of the cockpit. 

     

    I plan to have canopy down, so maybe not worth scraping the raised bits off and repainting. 

  11. 7 minutes ago, Mstor said:

    The front gear bay, the interior that is, is not red, it is a light or medium grey.

    Also, on the cockpit, on the panel behind the seat, those raised round areas are not present on production Su-33s. That may or may not be of concern to you, depending on how much of an accuracy nut you are. 😉

    Thanks for the heads up on that! 

     

    For the rear of the tub, wont that section be covered up by that other bit i painted in flanker blue (not sure what its called, but it goes inside the cockpit under the glass)?

  12. And we're off! 

     

     

    Cockpit tub, display and inner/upper fuselage painted in MM Flanker Blue Grey:

    9QgDnvM.jpg 

    Hard to see the blue/grey here, as the red really pops out far more. 

    Red was MM Insignia Red enamel. I stupidly forgot the front gear bay, so I will have to go back tonight and finish that. 

    DzwOmBx.jpg

     

    Next is the exhaustr intakes: Done in MM Gunship Grey enamel. Maybe a bit too dark but oh well, itll pop!

    rib4nqa.jpg

    nyAr0AI.jpg

     

    I forgot to take pictures of the bits painted black, including the ejector seats, tailhook (base color) and intaKe panels (base to be dry brushed with silver once cured). 

     

    I did get my Eduard PE cockpit set! So that will go on once the paint cures over the weekend. 

    c3aytpS.jpg

    The detail looks superb and I look forward to having a nice detailed cockpit! 

     

    Also got my canopy masks from Eduard:

    eCwro7c.jpg

     

     

    Next up: continuing to build the wings, landing gear, and weapons while the enamel paint cures and dries. So far so good! Fingers crossed for the rest. 

  13. Beginning a new build thread for my Trumpeter SU-33 Flanker D. 

     

    I will be doing a gear down, on the deck build. Only aftermarket parts I will use is the Eduard colored PE cockpit set, for displays and seatbelts, etc. I will use the MIG SU-33 paint set for the external camo, and some various MM enamels for the LG bays and wheels. Exhausts will be painted using Alclad metallics. 

     

    U29HAM8.jpg Most of the bits collected. 

     

    This is my second SU-33 build, the first being a Zvezda SU-33 in 1/72, painted in a fictional splinter camo scheme. 

     

    Thanks for having a look! 

  14. Here it is up on the stand! 

    YgFCRMw.jpg

    KUPOseI.jpg

    yWEdW4W.jpg

    Ypo2s29.jpg

    FFZqM2G.jpg

     

     

    The biggest letdowns on my part were the wingtip pylons, which broke over and over: 

     

    M1wkvaj.jpg

     

    Overall, lots of problem areas as this was technically my first kit. Learned a lot, and now will take that knowledge and use it for this:

    U29HAM8.jpg

     

    Will be doing a real SU-33 build, gear down, wings down, in the Russian Navy color/camo scheme. I also ordered the Eduard colored PE set for this to really make the cockpit pop and look real! 

  15. Update:

     

    Model is done! Not as good as id hoped, but its done and I am moving on to the next project with major knowledge of what and what not to do! 

     

     XtBBEVN.jpg

     

    JljaYAI.jpg

     

    And here is the stand I made with clear acrylic tubing and a display base for gundam models. I will be painting the base grey to mask the imperfections left from gluing the tubes in. 

     

    V82IZ0e.jpg

     

    Little supports underneath:

    dcVkoku.jpg

     

    I will post final pics of it on the stand next. 

  16. Update: 

     

    Panel Wash on top is mostly done: I used Abteillung black enamel paint with mineral spirits to thin it. The panel lines are pretty shallow so much of them were wiped away when I attempted to clean the wash off. 

    6H8BaFi.jpg

    dYr4DO2.jpg

     

    I also bagan mounting the missile stations, which proved to be a bear. Probably should have just mounted them when I first built the frame, pre-paint. 

     

    I am thinking final steps are coming soon. Finish mounting pylons and missiles, install cockpit glass, and hit it with one last clear coat. 

     

    As for the mount, I am thinking something like this: 

    23.jpg

    Clear acrylic tubing inserted into the afterburner nozzles. 

  17. 2 hours ago, crackerjazz said:

    The weathering looks beautiful!!!  Did you ever find out what caused the black paint to bleed after clear-coating?  

     

    Yeah it ended up being the clear coat itself. Its lacquer and the paint i used was an enamel gloss primer, so they just reacted. I solved it by leaving the masking on until I had clear coated over it. Made the black stay in place and seal nicely. 

  18. 15 minutes ago, Falconxlvi said:

    Another build under your belt- alright!  I’m curious what tools and paints you are using for your paint work-  The reason I ask is because some of the texture issues you are having with your paint leads me to believe that you are applying too much paint in a single spray session, or perhaps you need to thin your paint a little more before spraying it.  What brand of clear coat do you use and how do you thin it? 

     

    Steve

    So I use MM enamels. I definitely had some snafus with thinning on this bird. I also made a real stupid gametime decision about spraying more paint in one spot to denote weathering. Dunno what i was thinking. That was the root of all the problems that happened later on. 

     

    So yeah, little bit of both. I use the Alclad clears (pre-thinned). For this one, I used the lacquer gloss. Have had better luck in the past with the Aqua Gloss (acrylic). 

     

    Also, the decals really were a major pain here. Super brittle and not great quality. Do not mold to curves well at al. 

  19. 1 minute ago, 11bee said:

    Great job on the heated metal effect.   I've never been able to satisfactorily replicate this.   How well did those Alcad paints spray?

     

    Thanks! The Alclads sprayed really nicely. Especially given how cold it was when I sprayed. I did heat the paint bottles up a bit, and cranked my space heater to make sure the paint behaved the way i wanted it to. 

     

    I have found the key with the Alclads is the gloss base. It needs to be perfect, or as near to perfect as possible. I usually spray it, then cover it for at least 24 hours to let it fully dry and avoid getting airborne particles in the fresh paint. 

     

    I have 8 Alclad NMF and other paints, so I am well invested in them as of now. 

  20. 8 minutes ago, Joel_W said:

    Flyboy3394,

      look'in real good. Decals came out perfect.

     

     When I have issues with small parts continually breaking off like antennas (WWII aircraft), I carefully drill a whole in the bottom and a hole in the mounting surface.  I then glue in a metal pin to the part, then to the surface. When dry, it's solid as a rock.

     

    Joel

    Excellent advice sir! I wish i had thouht of this the first 3 times they broke off. 

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