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Flyboy3394

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Posts posted by Flyboy3394

  1. 21 minutes ago, my favs are F`s said:

    Nice! She looks wet! :PPP Indeed the weathering makes it quite juicy :) Congrats for all the efforts and adventures. For this scale it looks a really nice model.

     

     

    Yeah a bit too wet. I am going to shoot a light layer of semi gloss over this. It shines unrealistically and will not photograph right! 

     

    Thanks for the props. Feels good to be done and looks pretty good to boot. 

  2. Update: The wash is down and was successful! 

    yBJRgxz.jpg 

    3QtDmvq.jpg

     

    I like how dirty it looks, especially on the bottom. I cleaned it up a tad more after these photos, but all went well and ill be sealing it up tonight. 

     

    Final steps will be final assembly of the landing gear, adding weapons and cleaning/dipping the cockpit. 

     

    Also: 

    6qwFlx4.jpg

    i6iA2X5.jpg

    The 2000lb GBU-31 JDAM is built, and will be primed tonight. This thing was an absolute bear to build. Those PE bits were next to impossible to grip with tweezers, let alone set correctly. But, its done and looks pretty solid. 

     

     

  3. 22 minutes ago, Falconxlvi said:

    I do not thin the washes.  You probably do not need any thinner on the towel to start- only add thinner if the wash isn’t wiping off enough.   Also, make sure it’s totally dry before wiping.   Use light swipes with the paper towel/q-tips in the direction of airflow.   

    Great. Will do. The panel lines are super shallow so I know now ill need to be really careful when wiping excess away. 

     

    Btw, a few shots of attempt one: 

    NP7HO2b.jpg

    ZjDT2BI.jpg

    vfgcX8F.jpg

    Aside from the deepest areas, its impossible to tell. 

  4. 13 minutes ago, Falconxlvi said:

    For MiG washes, I wait until the wash is completely dry- usually about 30 minutes.  You can always moisten your wiping cloth with enamel thinner if you need more power to remove the wash, but I generally find that you don’t  need to do that with the MiG washes, as long as you have a smooth gloss coat.  

     

    Steve

    So I used a paper towel with a tiny bit of enamel thinner, but it still wiped almost everything away. Though first, it began by streaking heavily. I will wait a bit longer as the stuff i used was not completely dry yet. Also, do you thin your MIG washes? 

  5. Gotcha. I did a test of the MIG starship wash. Its more of a grime deep deep grey than black, but its decent i think. I also mioxed up the Abteillung black with some turpentine and it worked really well. I just did not let it dry sufficiently, so I wiped a lot of the wash off. How long do you typically let your washes dry before wiping them? 

     

     

  6. Getting pretty nervous as the final step is to apply the Wash, and this is where I messed up majorly last time. 

     

    Any last minute advice from anyone? 

     

    I purchased a few different washes so I have options: 

    1. Abteillung black oil paint, and turpentine to dilute. 

    2. MIG Aircraft washes for dark grey aircraft. 

    3. MIG starship wash (black). 

     

    Anyone have any feedback on any of these? Suggestions for my F15 based on the shade of grey? Would black or a dark dark grey be best on my gunship? 

     

    Thanks, 

    Zach 

  7. 23 hours ago, Falconxlvi said:

    Zach, 

     

    Yes, that’s a very realistic configuration.   To clarify though - there would be only 6x 500lb JDAMs total (3 on each side of the bottom CFT bomb racks, Sta 1-3).  A 2000lb JDAM on centerline would round it out nicely.  A/A missiles cannot be carried on centerline (Sta 5).  Also, do not put any JDAMs on the shoulder CFT stations (Sta 4-6).  

     

    Steve

    Gotcha. That's the loadout I will go with then. 2 Aim-9s, 2 Aim 120s, 6 500lb JDAMs, 1 2000lb JDAM. 

     

    Thanks much Falcon!

  8. On 9/2/2017 at 6:26 PM, Falconxlvi said:

    Looking good and nice saves!  I'm not sure how accurate you want your loadout to be, but the AIM-9X isn't in service yet with USAF F-15E's.  If you have any spare AIM-9M's around, that's what you want.  Also, for USAF birds, the JDAMs would only go on the bottom CFT stations- not the shoulder stations.   USAF Strike Eagles only have smart weapon interfaces on the wing and centerline stations (2, 5, 8) and the bottom conformal stations (LC/RC 1, 2, and 3).  I believe Academy intends to repackage the plastic as an F-15K, which is why it comes with all those weapons.   

     

    Steve

     

    Steve,

     

    I know this comment ^ was a while back, but now that im days away from mounting weapons, I wanted to revisit. 

     

    I plan on the AMRAAMs and Sidewinders on underwing pylongs, AMRAAMs outside, Sidewinders inside station. 

     

    Aside from that, what, in your opinion, is the most realistic loadout with the 500lb JDAMs to round it all out?

     

    Also, the center station did not come with anything to mount on it. I have a full compliment of missiles from the last kit that I can put there, or I could get a 1/72 scale 2000lb JDAM. 

     

    Thanks, 

    Zach 

  9. On 10/20/2017 at 4:30 PM, BoeingDriver said:

    I believe those purposed upgrades are dead in the water.

     

    Bummer. Really awesome concept. Boeing seems to have a lot of modernization/upgrade options available for legacy aircraft like the F-15s, F-18s, etc. Wonder why we don't make use of more of them? 

  10. 17 hours ago, Joel_W said:

    Just an absolutely fantastic paint camo scheme. Really glad that the Goo Gone worked. Will make note of it just in case I ever need it.

     

    Joel

    Yeah it is a seriously pretty paint scheme. And yeah, believe me, after all the stupid setbacks with this kit, am very happy about the goo gone actually working as well. 

  11. So now I am facing another issue. 

     

    Since i built the F15e kit with the stock exhaust tubes and not the aires ones, I am forced to make a choice here as I near completion. 

     

    If I choose to use the aires bits, I will have to shave down (presumably with a dremel tool) this section: 

     3xkkYNr.png 

     

    And then glue this bit on: 

    6RuFHJo.png 

    That would necessitate me cutting just that bit off of the Aires tubes, which will allow the exhaust nozzles to fit inside like below: 

    2724a71793bd6f6144234a78ecea3f1c.image.867x950.jpg 

     

    So the question is, is it worth it at this point, when I am on the last step of the build. Should I save these parts for a future build? Or move forward and make the current one as detailed and accurate looking as possible. 

  12. Update: 

    Clear coat is down and decaling has begun. 

    MU6Hjwj.jpg 

    JIcYkXY.jpg

    bz50fMA.jpg

     

    Got most of the big decals down top, sides and bottom. I am reusing the vertical stabs, drop tanks and weapons from the last kit as they are already completely painted and decaled. I threw most of the pieces on to get an idea of what it will look like when I am done decaling and putting the wash down. Looks pretty good, minus a few mess up areas. Looking forward to putting this guy up on the shelf at the office by next week! 

  13. 21 hours ago, Inquisitor said:

    I'm late to the party. But that looks like the Ace Combat's Yellow 13.

    You didn't need to had custom masks made.

    Hasegawa provides a PDF for download on their site.

    http://www.hasegawa-model.co.jp/product/sp312/ near the bottom look for "PDF"

    Print, apply spray glue, the ones that say repositionable on the can, they're low tack. Cut, apply. And just take the tip if you need to do something similar for future projects.

     

     

     

    Yeah it is. Well I took that PDf that Hasegawa provided, and did some magic in PS, and had a couple stencils made with them. Next time though, I will be using Friskett paper. 

     

    Now, I have no idea what sprayable glue is/looks like. I have liquid mask I could have used. I would love to explore it for future use. 

  14. On 10/25/2017 at 1:42 PM, Falconxlvi said:

    It looks like you have some overspray on the model from painting the exhaust area.  Sometimes a light wet sand with a very fine grit can take care of this without having to repaint.   

     

    Also, I like to test my paint/thinner ratio by spraying on a scrap piece of plastic before committing to the model- this can save you lots of heartache and prevent your paint from pooling.   If the Alclad was pooling, try misting it on in very light coats next time 👍🏻

     

    Steve

     

    I actually resprayed a very light coat over it last night. My airbrush is out of commission for a few days so I figured i would cover up the mistakes there, and touch up a couple other areas. I used a small bit of Japan drier to speed up the drying too, so Thursday evening I will lay down clear coat. 

     

    The Alclad wasn't pooling, it was the MM enamel Gunship grey. Not a big deal Its barely noticeable. 

  15. Finally got the Camo scheme down and (mostly) good to go. 

    yzNRtUC.jpg

    uSFN9ev.jpg

    h4aVdYx.jpg

     

    Paint down: 

    MC3UmgB.jpg

    8Zu6q5w.jpg

     

    And Masking removed: 

    ETfi116.jpg

    0R0ykpo.jpg

    2KRDFI2.jpg

     

    But there were some problems. Lots of lifting of the mask, so lots of bleeding, and lots of sticky residue left over from the not-model friendly masking decal. 

    YM7EAg9.jpg

     

    Anyone have suggestions for getting the residue up without stripping paint? 

     

    Next will be the Vertical Stabs and then a good while for curing. 

     

     

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