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Everything posted by Flyboy3394

  1. Great advice! I will try that! I have the perfect paint for the guidance sections on the AIM-9X too!
  2. Update 1: Drop tanks and LANTIRN pods (and wonky landing gear that will not stop bending and breaking). Time for a gloss coat and decals) Bombs away! So many freaking bombs! Model Master Khaki Green was the color of choice here. SIdewinders all gussied up in white. Could not find a definitive guide to what color the missiles should be with these or the AMRAAMs. Nor for the JDAMs either for that matter. So I went with what contrasts the Gunship grey best, and that is a nice semi gloss white. Gloss coat and decals to follow. D
  3. Small update: Got all the missiles painted. Decided to do them all on that piece of cardboard. Needless to say it was difficult, and I probably got a ton of overspray on the adjacent missiles. Well, they seem to have come out ok. Doubtless they will take a bit more time than normal to cure up. Got the white nose done. Opted for Model Master Insigna semi gloss white. I like a bit of shine on an otherwise matted out jet Next step, the diluted yellow on the underside. Definitely going to need to do some color swatch tests and get the perfect mi
  4. Thank you! Its been a real learning experience. I have been doing this alongside a 1/72 F-15E, and together they are my first aircraft models ever. Lots I have learned about gluing, puttying and other fitment issues. Part of me is almost bummed I decided to do this as one of my first models, as i could have benefitted from a good deal more experience. I will definitely be doing more SU-27 series birds in the future.
  5. Not doing a specific jet... Just didn't want to paint the radome the same exact shade as the rest of the plane. Good to know though. I guess I will try to figure out a specific plane to go for! Was your bird lighter or darker? Maybe I will go with that!
  6. On another note, anyone have opinions on the colors I should be painting the missiles/bombs?
  7. Yeah think that could be a good idea. This is super dark. I do not think it is quite this dark in real life. Close, but not 100%. May do some postshading to lighten things up a bit. Not sure though. In terms of fine lines with my airbrush, I am less than confident. May just call it and go with my panel line wash and decals....
  8. Began this build well, then disaster struck in a moment of pure idiocy. I laid it down in a puddle of plastic cement..... Nice. Then, I had this: Will not be using heat guns so nonchalantly anymore. FLash forward a week later: This is after 5-6 rounds of putty/sand and priming. No scribing, and some detail is gone, but oh well, its workable. Close up on the fix. Fast forward another week (to last night): First coat of MM Gunship Gray is down and smooth as can be hoped for. N
  9. Well, I decided not to rescribe (scared of making it worse), and have since assembled and moved on to paint. Here is the result: Came out really well. Nice even coats went down and I am very hapy with the result. I did not realize how dark it would spray. It certainly didn't look this dark in the bottle. Nonetheless, I like it. Paints I used.
  10. Part three: randoms Lots of ordinance included in this kit! Will be going with a flat white base coat and black/grey accents on all these missiles. Lots of pylons for the missiles. Coated in dark ghost gray to match the airframe. Canopies masked and painted with a flat black around the edges. My test spoon. Shot this with every color I sprayed today. I now understand what crazing is and why i want to avoid it at all costs. Thats at least 4 layers of enamel paint stacked within a two hour period. Next up will be a 72
  11. Part two: Paint Post glue/putty and sanding. Probably could have been more thorough, but I was eager to slap some paint on while I had a day. Here are all the paints i will be using throughout the build. Main colors are obviously the greys, but the yellow is an important aspect as well This is the camo scheme I am going for. dark yellow on wingtips and some other areas, diluted yellow across the underbelly. First coat is on and looking good! This is dark ghost grey.
  12. Here is my Strike Eagle I painted yesterday. Its very dark, but I really like it. I will dilute it a tiny bit for the nose, as apparently the nose section is typically lighter than the main fuselage.
  13. Started a new thread for the build progress if you care to take a gander. Haven't begun painting yet, but am getting closer.
  14. Logging my Zvezda SU-33 build. I am doing a Yellow 13 themed build instead of the standard blue/gray Russian naval paint job. For those who do not know, Yellow 13 is the main "boss" adversary in the Ace Combat 4 video game. In the game, his (and his squadron's) planes are listed as SU-37's, but in reality they are SU-33's. All glued up and in major need of putty and sanding all over the place. The belly, complete with intakes... The intakes will need a fiar bit of putty and sanding to get them looking right. Bit of a rushed job on the cockpit. Did
  15. That is awesome! Must be so cool knowing your bird still flies!
  16. So you primed the whole thing Semi gloss black? Testors explicitly says do not prime Metalizers. It does look pretty good from my viewpoint.
  17. Also, As for priming, what color is best? I had to use my light grey tamiya spray while fixing the liquid cement damage, but should I go with a black primer to ensure I get a darker grey when I use the Gunship grey?
  18. You didnt find it too dark? I think Ti is a good idea. Hadn't even considered that before.
  19. Hi all, Wondering what the correct color would be for the aluminum looking area on the bottom rear of the Strike Eagle. I tried Pale Burnt metal, and alclad steel and neither work well at all. I do have Alclad Chrome I could use, or should I go with airframe aluminum? Want to get that bit right for sure. Open to using any type of airbrushable metalizer paint, Like MM metalizers or otherwise.
  20. Looks like lots of putty and sanding and more putty worked. Now just waiting on the replacement for the warped part. Now onto paint!
  21. Oh trust me, I did. Just last night, i put the cokpit together, and somehow forgot to put the joysticks into the cockpit prior to cementing the halves together. Gah, Well, this one will be less than perfect indeed. In many ways!
  22. Bob, Thanks for the tips. I will try the boiling water trick (carefully). I have 2 types of putty right now. Tamiya white putty, and Mr. Dissolved putty. I also ordered some Milliput superfine white as well. Out of the three, which do you recommend using to fill the cement spill? When you say circular area, do you mean the detailed area to the right of the cement melt? Thanks, Zach
  23. The 2nd/3rd are same piece, different angle. I am thinking I will just get a replacement for the 2/3rd pic part, and clean up and fix the cement melt. THe big issue with part 2 is that not only is it warped aesthetically, but also it will not sit flush on the part it connects to and that is where the thrust nozzles attach, so I doubt they will attach. I will use the piece to practice what you suggested, but will replace it and have a good condition part for the final product.
  24. Thanks for the tips, but im a bit confused. Which should I fill with Mr. Surfacer? And which should I be filing and scribing? The glue on the top pic, should I scrape it off to get an even surface and then fill with putty? For the heat warped piece, should I try to heat it up and warp back into shape?
  25. While building my new tool 1/72 Academy F15E, I melted two pieces of the model. First, while using a heat gun, I moderately warped the section that the thrust nozzles connect to. Then, purely out of dumb luck, placed the nearly complete upper fuselage into a puddle of plastic cement. I have contacted the US distributor to get some replacement parts, but at the same time, I see this as an opportunity to learn something useful about fixing stupid mistakes. As such, I would love some advice on how to correct these issues.
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