Horrido

I sent this E-mail to Evo, but I feel it's good to post it, as well, for critique from other members and provide information to others, as well: Just curious if you were in-country or not. I'll post some decent websites that will actually sell the kinds of starter kits you're looking for. For what it's worth, I would recommend either a Binks Wren, Badger 350, or the Paasche HS if you're just beginning. These are single-action, external mix airbrushes that are easy to clean, easy to learn on, difficult to ruin, and provide decent quality spraying. When you "outgrow" these, they will still

Hi, Evo! Where are you from? This could make a difference in costs, shipping, etc.

I use automotive masking tape, which is plastic and somewhat elastic (essentially Tamiya masking tape sold in auto stores). I cut it with a very sharp hobby knife along a metal straight edge on a glass plate into thin strips, and apply two strips per edge or as needed, overlapping, along the border of the exposed glass (It's too difficult and time consuming trying to match the exact length, so just cut two or three shorter pieces that contact both ends of the pane and overlap in the center). I then fill the area in with a liquid masking agent. Spray the interior frame color in light coats o

The two part Tamiya Epoxy is basically just like Milliput, but comes in a bubblegum like strip, the two parts joined along the center. Didn't strike me as anything particularly special, but someone else may think differently.

What double-took me was the movie I saw in Russia with the Hind-D's done up to look like Coast Guard S-3's...

Curious, I have some Milliput that I purchased a number of years ago. Wasn't terribly thrilled with it because it took forever to mix, made my fingers sore, and then filed and sanded like concrete. What are some of the tricks of the trade to having a positive and satisfying Milliput experience?

USC Autobody Icing, 26006. A Bondo/polyester putty that sets smooth, easy to sand, doesn't shrink, VERY durable (stronger than the surrounding plastic, but sands easier), and depending on the amount of hardener you use, will set anywhere from 3 minutes to 24 hours, and you can buy more hardener if you need to, in a variety of colors to suit your tastes, including clear. I've found it to be FAR superior to standard Bondo. Get a lifetime supply of 24 oz for $18.00, compared with Tamiya Poylester Putty at $12.00 for a toothpaste tube and not enough hardener that doesn't set for forever. For l

Couple of options: If they should be flush, along a straight edge use a shallow tapered sowing needle or pounce wheel to indent the surface and sand smooth. If the rivets are raised, use the needle to press into the plastic and create a "raised" rivet, and lightly touch the top with a liquid putty, surfacer, or primer to fill the little hole, creating a new rivet. Yes, it is time-consuming and will exacerbate most neuroses. :wacko: :blink:

There are adapters available to attach an Iwata airbrush to a Badger or Paasche hose.

It will work directly, at least it does with mine.

I've tried using CA glue as a filler and never really liked it. It always left a slight ring around where the glue was applied when painted over that never sanded down or became even, and in many cases, even chipped around the edge from sanding. Since then, I've gone to the standard Tamiya laquer-based putty and Mr. Surfacer for small touch-up jobs and USC automotive icing 26006 (polyester putty/Bondo) for larger seem jobs.

Brush the area with primer and sand it smooth, or spray it on, then scribe it. Of course, it also depends on the depth you want for the panel line. I've just taken the back of my hobby knife or a sharpened sowing needle held in a pin vice at a very shallow angle to lightly rescribe mine.

If you have an air compressor, I'd order a Binks Wren, Badger Model 350, or the Paasche equivalent. These are single-action external mix airbrushes, will still do an excellent job, are easy to maintain and difficult to ruin, and will still be very useful for area spraying when he graduates onto more sophisticated airbrushes.

The latex-based masking fluids break down and become rather oily and sticky over time, losing their cohesion. This makes removal from the surface very difficult. It's like trying to remove molassas or masking tape adhesive from your kit.

I've got the Revell reboxing and an Italeri Comanche I'm interested in building to a hypothetical "in-service" scheme, one in clean, stealthy, recon mode and another with the Longbow radar, fins, and everything loaded and hanging out. Have there been any references released showing photos of the cockpit? What would, say tailcodes/markings for the year 2008 have looked like?