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About skuki

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    Full Blown Model Geek
  • Birthday 09/30/1980

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    wwII german aircrafts, modern jets, helos

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  1. Unfortunately no, I'll try to use, modify and thin leftovers 🙂
  2. OMG! yes, I remember now - I wanted to buy soviet weapons from them, for my Su-33 that I've built (same as you did :)). I always thought that they are Russian company They are obviously back with this set, on the big doors if you ask me
  3. thanks all Hi Paul, it is tamiya precision caliper 74030. It is very nice since it is smaller thus easier to handle than those other that were available in stores near me Those "horns" are quite sharp. Beside measure, you can use it as scraper and dotter (when you need dots in regular order etc) On those panels that are parallel you can use it to trim and fine tune to the exact measure. Mostly because of this tool I was able to achieve exact fit for the frame
  4. Hi everybody, here are few pictures of Tamiya tomcat with Kazan detail sets (spine set + wing box set) that is intended for Hasegawa kits. There are few tips that those who decide to use this set with Tamiya might find useful. First of all, this is one of the best sets I've seen so far. The dedication to quality is visible on almost every aspect of this set -from details, quality of casting, engineering to instructions. I can see a lot of love put in it. Since Tamiya kit has two part upper fuse, whilst Hasegawa has one part, you need to take steps in a specific order if you would like to make yourself a job easier. That is firstly due to the fact that if you cut off the panel of front fuselage part, there will be nothing to hold left and right part of the fuselage if you don't secure it somehow, and I'll try to explain what is the best method in my opinion. The fit to Tamiya is so far very good. The pe frame of the spine is just a little bit wider than panel lines on Tamiya. I suggest that you freely cut along the panel lines, and after dry fit, you can easily sand the edges to make the hole a bit larger - but keep in mind that this might not be necessary because it depends on the technique you are using to cut the panel line - so dry fit is a must. If you cut along the panel lines and sand them a bit, if necessary, the frame will drop in perfectly. The only place that you shouldn't cut on the panel line is the panel at the very end of the spine, that I've marked with a red circle on one of the pictures, since the frame there is shorter for about 1.5 mm than tamiya panel. I might be wrong about some things, but here are some conclusions that I came to while building the kit so far. This is my opinion about the order of steps: 1. First cut all the panel lines in the rear part of the fuselage 2. Then cut about 1/2 or even more of the panels on the front part of the fuselage, you need to leave some since this is the only thing that keeps the front part of the fuselage together 3. Than cut panels on the intakes, install resin 4. Then make cuts on the panels (if you are using wing box set also) that should be removed to install wing box, but do not cut them completely because you need them to keep the two parts of the fuselage together. 5. Only then glue together the front and rear part of the fuselage 6. Then cut the rest of the panels that were holding together a front part of the fuselage, since it is held now by the rear part. You might consider to temporarily fix the front and rear part of the fuselage additionally with styrene stripes 8. after that you should install the resin parts of the spine completely. 9. Only now cut the panels that should be removed for the wing box. You can, and probably should, prior to cutting these panels, additionally fix the spine with epoxy resin or something since resin spine will be the only thing that will now keep your fuselage parts together, till now they were held together by the parts that should now be removed to install wing box. The idea is to cut and prepare everything as much as possible before gluing together fuselage halves since they will be held together with a rather small area of plastic, so any pressure that you will use to cut or sand, after you glue them together, might result in breaking these two parts. So it is best to do most of the job before gluing them together. For now, I don't see any major issues with fitting this set into Tamiya. I was very glad when I found that out. Spine set by itself is pretty much straightforward build. Thanks for reading/watching, here are some progress pictures:
  5. Hi, thanks but I just wanted to be sure since 84-1250 is an early bird from 1985, 6 years after F-16 went into service, and was lost in 1995. It has some old element like old wheels from A/B variants. I couldn't find information about the year they started to install APG-68. If it was only 5 years after F-16 went into service, then I will use it. In a lack of that information, and in doubt, I'll stick to the fact that it is C variant and put the later radar in.
  6. Hi again 🙂 should I go with early or late eduard brassin radar for 84-1250?? Thanks!
  7. Hi, here are some dry fit pic of black dog set. Since this is a black dog, fit is a surprise. Black dog has (or had) some issues with shrinkage of the resin This main part is most important, if it is shrunk, it can easily go to the trash can. I don't care about the rest since everything is doable and adjustable. The wheel bay part fits perfectly. I simply "clicks" and is attached without glueing.
  8. Thanks all! Joerg, wow, the seat really looks nice, I'like molded seatbelts. So far my 1st choice
  9. Thanks a lot. I'll still go for brassin, somehow I want to skip aires and that fit to the fuselage. Still, is hard to notice difference in shape, especially in 1/48 scale. I'll try to enhance differences in appearance with color (on petals and edges). Also, is there any producer that makes electronic bays, beside Black dog? Thanks!
  10. Hi, thanks. I did see that aires has both, but I would rather go for brassin since I've heard it fits better. However I couldn't find differences when looking on the pictures of both nozzles. So I was wondering if brassin block 52 nozzle can pass for 25/32. Btw Tamiya thunderbird F-16 block 32/52 gives the same nozzle in the box
  11. Hi, I would like to build tamiya f-16C block 25/32. Since I am not into F-16 that much, I was wondering which aftermarket should I get. I would like to use brassin exhaust, this one here: https://www.eduard.com/Eduard/F-16CJ-Block-52-engine-1-48.html?listtype=search&searchparam=f-16 It is indicated to be for block 52, but isn't it the same for 25/32? Also, should I get early or late wheels (I suppose early) So, this: https://www.eduard.com/Eduard/F-16-early-wheels-1-48.html?listtype=search&searchparam=f-16 or this: https://www.eduard.com/Eduard/F-16-late-wheels-1-48-1.html?listtype=search&searchparam=f-16 And early or late seat: So this: https://www.eduard.com/Eduard/F-16-early-seat-1-48.html?listtype=search&searchparam=f-16 or this: https://www.eduard.com/Eduard/F-16-late-seat-1-48.html?listtype=search&searchparam=f-16 And I think that late radar goes here, am I correct? https://www.eduard.com/Eduard/F-16-radar-late-1-48.html?listtype=search&searchparam=f-16 Please help, I've searched the net and I am even more confused after that. Thanks!
  12. Hi all, I'm building the model of B-2 Modelcollect in 1/72 scale but I'm not able to find decent pictures of the wheel bays. I have eduard pe parts for it, but seems somehow empty without wiring. Can anyone help me, please, thanks!
  13. I did see it on Moson show in Hungary this weekend. It looks very nice. Some flaws in casting that will probably be removed since these were early test parts, a bit naked surface details on fuse, that's a pitty, but overall impressive kit which I can hardly wait
  14. Does it mean it's only L for now?
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