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Brad Cancian

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About Brad Cancian

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    Brisbane, Queensland
  1. Beautiful Tiffy! What did you use for the igniter wires?

  2. All up this one took me a bit under two weeks to build. The low parts count helped  All comments, criticisms and feed back welcomed! Cheers BC
  3. Hi folks, After a 4 month hiatus from modelling due to work sending me all over the world, I’ve finally found some time at the bench. I wanted a fairly quick and easy build so I picked up the Italeri 1/48 Hawker Typhoon 1B, which I believe is a re-box of the Hasegawa kit. I know next to nothing about these aircraft so I pretty much went OOB, save for adding some padding and harnesses to the seat belts, the ignitor wiring for the rockets, and the antenna to the rear fuselage. The fit of the fuselage insert and lower wings was not great and needed a decent amount of filler, sanding and some re
  4. Overall this is a very well engineered kit, with plenty of crisp details and good fit. The only minor issue I had was with the proliferation of sprue gates on the sprues which required allot of clean up (was a bit troublesome on the smaller parts). Otherwise a great kit. (Side note - I have since fixed the front undercarriage strut after taking the photos.... doh!). All comments, criticisms and feedback welcome. BC
  5. Hi all, Here is my latest completion, the Gaspatch Models 1/48 Salmson 2A2. This one is built straight out of the box save for the rigging. It is painted up in the markings of the 1st US Aero Squadron, France, 1918. WIP pictures can be seen here: http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=2966.0
  6. Here are some pics of some of the details / modifications: Anyways, glad to finally have something off the bench…! All comments / criticisms / feedback welcomed! Cheers, BC
  7. Hi folks, Been a while since I posted here ..... :)/> Here is my latest model off the bench – only my second for this year (with the last one being way back in January – slow year…) – the Revell 1/72 Sopwith Triplane. This kit dates back from the mid 1960s and suffers from the traits of the era – no cockpit detail, some rough / blobby and exaggerated mouldings, rough ‘textured’ flying surfaces, and chunky attachment points for struts and undercarriage (to be fair, it was designed for kids to build). Surprisingly though, the wings were spot on in dimensions, and the fuselage basically good
  8. Thanks guys! Toniosky - not sure how long it took me to build this, but I think probably somewhere in the order of 80 to 100 hours (one day I really should keep track of how long it takes me to build something!) Cheers! BC
  9. This wasn’t an easy build and required some care to make sure it all went together with a minimum of issues. Points to watch out for are the soft bendy plastic, sink marks, warped fuselage halves and the weak lower starboard wing joint (mine needed pinning). Rigging on these brit planes is also a bit of a nightmare (mine was rigged with aeroclub elastic tied to “bob’s buckles†wire turnbuckles). I would recommend this kit for those with a couple of biplane builds (and a stiff drink) under their belt. All feedback welcomed!
  10. Here’s my latest off the bench – the 1:48 Roden DeHavilland DH-9, painted in the markings of A6-16 of the Royal Australian Air force, based at Point Cook, Victoria circa 1923 (this aircraft was one of the “Imperial Gift†aircraft presented by Britain to Australia after the First World War). The most prominent feature of the RAAF DH-9’s is the modified “chimney stack†exhaust, which was used to keep exhaust fumes away from the crew. These aircraft were not routinely armed, and that is how I presented this aircraft. A few additions were made to the ki
  11. Now she is starting to look like a DH-9... Some paint has now been applied. Painted up as A6-16 of the Royal Australian Air Force, based at Point Cook in Victoria, circa 1923. A typically drab and uninteresting paint scheme, which is hard to paint and still look mildly interesting! Don't ask me how many times I broke the starboard lower wing off painting and masking. The joint is very weak and doesn't stand up to too much handling. Ended up bracing it with some fuse wire but it's still flimsy... So that's where she is now - next is the dreaded upper wing... wish me
  12. Next, the interior. Modifications included a new etched seat with putty seat cushion and Eduard belts, a modified floor, a mount for a camera (fictional as I had no reference pics) and other details. Luckily the cockpit of the DH-9 was quite sparse - these aircraft didn't even carry wireless sets post war, save for one or two experiments. Due to the way Roden have structured the fuselage and the soft plastic, it "pinches" in at the top. Hence why I had to use some rods to space it back out to the correct width.
  13. Hello all, I have recently joined the site so figured I might as well start posting :) Here is some progress on my current project, the 1:48 Roden DH-9, which I am building as a post-war Royal Australian Air Force "Imperial Gift" machine from the early 1920s. First, the 230hp Siddeley Puma engine. Not much was added as the only area that will be able to be seen is the top of the cylinders. I also modified the exhaust pipe - RAAF aircraft had a distinctive "chimney stack" exhaust, which I made from cut brass hollow tube. The engine is very un-inspirational colour wise, but all of the perio
  14. I am certainly not a figure painter or dioramaist (is that the appropriate term..?) like the armour guys and such, so the ground and figure work is very rough by their standards.... and I have never really tackled something like this before, so it was always going to be a bit of a learning experience. Still need more practice! No name plaque as yet, but am working on that. Doing something different like this was fun, and saved a nice model from ending up in the trash. Feedback / tips always welcomed! Cheers, BC
  15. I then made the ground work, using plaster for the earth base, and some grass that you can get at model railroad stores. The building was made from balsa wood, and the area was strewn with appropriate spoils of war from the spares box.
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