Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About CANicoll

  • Rank
    Canopy Polisher

Recent Profile Visitors

117 profile views
  1. CANicoll

    RAF Lakenheath photo thread

    What lenses do most of you use when shooting on the Mach Loop? From some of the pictures I've seen there seem to be some pretty big telephoto's out there. I have a 200-500 but if that is not appropriate I'd rather not haul it over. Thanks in advance for your suggestions! Chris
  2. CANicoll

    RAF Lakenheath photo thread

    Definitely going to Chattanooga - already have my hotel reservation (the two closest hotels are already sold out). Went to their regional show in January, and likely will go again this January. Hopefully will see you in Telford.
  3. CANicoll

    RAF Lakenheath photo thread

    You are SOOO deceptive!! Ha!!! OK, good to see you here. 🧐 Thanks for the notes - 3 hours is very doable, I figured I'd get to the area on Wednesday spend Thursday and Friday morning seeing what is flying, and head back to London on Friday evening or maybe Saturday even. Maybe Saturday/Sunday to Mildenhall. After Telford some of my club folks and I are heading back to Cosford. I guess I need to get my act together on this trip! "Sherlock"
  4. CANicoll

    paint leaking behind eclipse hp-cs paint cup?

    Probably best for you to give them a call and they can tell you directly what they do and how much they charge. I don't know if their prices have changed or not in the past year. Good luck! Chris Service Hours 8:00am - 4:30pm Pacific Standard Time (Except when closed for holidays) Phone: 503-253-7308
  5. CANicoll

    RAF Lakenheath photo thread

    Hi Gary, Thanks will do on when I'm over to see if you or anyone has any G2 on what might be happening then. Looks like, since the week days seem the most active (?), Wed-Fri Nov 14-16. I did look at that site, funny enough, and are checking out the hotels. Now just have to figure out how to get there from London! Chris
  6. Nice quick and easy build, but an interesting subject as the same time. The camo decals are an interesting addition, but Tamiya needs to do a better job on the printing. Interior is very well detailed, but difficult to see with the only option of a closed canopy. But the decal seat belts are terrible.
  7. Now that the Tamiya Tony is in the case, time to start on the next project which I picked up in Chattanooga in January, The Hasegawa 1/48 P-39 along with a beautiful wooden base from Bases by Bill (picture coming!) with the nametag of the Soviet P-39 ace Alexander Pokryshkin. Picked up the kit as a package with the nice wooden base and name plaque, and the Eduard PE bits for the interior, placards and flaps. I'm more used to Eduard's really nice P-39 kits which are mostly out of production now, but the Hasegawa kit has a nice level of detail and the Eduard PE just adds to the detail. Name tag from Bases by Bill: Here is the cockpit floor, with some of the Eduard PE bits attached: Debated on using the Eduard PE seat, but it is so much thinner than the kit set, and has much better detail. Still have some work to do but got it together. Have to close some gaps. The Eduard PE rudder pedals: Here is the kit IP, on the right, sanded down and the angle parts cut off, to take the Eduard PE color IP, which has already been sandwiched using Formula 560 clear glue. Will paint the exposed part with Interior Green or black as appropriate. Here is the IP all together, with the PE machine guns: Base coat of Model Master Acryl Interior Green. Nice detail showing up on the seat (and bits still be to be added). The floor shows where the tweezers were holding it during painting. Should be behind the seat-back and under the equipment shelf. Probably will touch it up with a brush anyway. Used a drill bit to open up the holes in the canopy frame. The Hasegawa kit is pretty good so far. And a couple of the black bits painted - lower instrument panel with the two slots for the PE knobs, and the radio which goes behind the seat. Will address that seam on top: So just getting started, lots of details still to be painted. Stay tuned! Chris
  8. CANicoll

    RAF Lakenheath photo thread

    Gary, Thanks for that info - that is a lot more than I had before! I'm over for Scale Model World in Telford, then a conference two weeks later in London - so have a bit of 'spare' time on my hands. Was over a few months ago and brought the camera gear over for Photographer's Day at Duxford - that was well worth the pain of hauling the gear over (including the 200-500mm lens). I'll keep a weathered eye out - the good news is I have a few weeks to plan still. Best regards, Chris
  9. CANicoll

    RAF Lakenheath photo thread

    Great pics, thanks for sharing! Any idea when the 'Mach Loop' is active, or is it active relatively all the time? I'm over to the UK in Nov and have a free weekend (and maybe a day or two during the week). Any hints on how to get there from Slough or London would be appreciated! Cheers, Chris
  10. CANicoll

    Quality of life tools?

    Lots of good answers above but here are what I find extremely helpful: The obligatory magnifying light. MANDATORY for my +50 year old eyes. Flush cutters from Xuron - got these at Telford last year and they cut so clean and flush there is usually very little clean up. Here is the link. I have the angled pair as well. This Photo Etch Scissor almost makes working with PE parts enjoyable. ALMOST! I have a collection of handles with various blades in them: #11 and #3 (really handy for detail work), two chisel blades one wide and one narrow. One holding a Glue Looper (has been very helpful when I've used it) and one holding a scribing point. One has a big angled blade and another a big curved blade I use when I can't get the PE Scissors in to make a clean cut. I keep them in this tool holder along with my Xuron tools, colored pencils, various toothpicks. If I was home I would attach a picture. I have the wood handled micro saw and dual dual sided blades on this page, as well as the serrated #11 blades. Lots to choose from. I have two of these - in the back I have a wide variety of paint brushes all easily viewable, and in the front I put my tweezers, pic-n-sticks, micro brushes etc. Two pair of clamping tweezers - one large and one small. I actually wrap the tips in Tamiya tape to prevent marks. (also protects the tweezers when I use them to hold small parts when I paint them). Get the right adhesive for the job if you don't already. I use Formula 560 to glue PE, PE Instrument panels, canopies and create instrument face dials = very sticky which is helpful at times. Also have four varieties of of CA, Testors glue in the black square dispensor as well as Gator Glue, which I like because it is a gel. Sometimes I have to think about which adhesive to use, but when you use the right one, the job is so much easier (oh yeah, and Tamiya Extra Thin glue too!) These are handy too - pic sticks. Good luck! Chris
  11. CANicoll

    Tamiya 1/72 Kawasaki Ki-61-Id Hein (Tony)

    Sorry, late posting these pics, but here you go! No antennas yet, might add those yet and maybe some light exhaust staining and general weathering. Had to do some touch-up painting on the canopy with a fine point brush and then painted the black anti-slip on the wings with the same fine point brush. The yellow bands on the wings are painted, then used the red machine gun patches from the decal sheet. The Vallejo Ferrari Red seems to match the red in the decal Hinomarus pretty well. Ran a clear flat over everything except the red tail. The camo decals went down well, but if I were to do this again I would probably cut the fuselage decal length-wise as well and cut out the space for the blue stripe. The kit panel lines don't seem deep enough to take two layers of decals very well. Ditto on the top wing Hinomaru's - they are down over a very large clear spot. Probably better to cut the wing camo decals and cut out where the Hinomaru's go. I do wish, if Tamiya is only going to provide a closed canopy, that they add a pilot figure.
  12. CANicoll

    Dangers of Vallejo Model Color Line

    Folks: I've been using various Vallejo paint products for a while and based on seeing the original post I went to their website and have been reading their safety disclosures. You can read for yourself here. I dont' see ANY indication that cadmium or any other toxic material is found in the paints I use from Vallejo, or the thinners/flow improvers, etc. I also think it is unfair that this post, now 7 years old, has no attribution to any documentation whatsoever. Just an unsubstantiated claim. The guy who posted it has not been active on the site since a few months from making this post, in 2011. I think this thread needs to be un-pinned. Chris
  13. CANicoll

    Drying time for Vallejo Clear Gloss?

    Could be. When I spray Vallejo (which at this point is about 95% of the time) I tend to do a mist coat first, the follow up with another and then a quick 'wet' coat. This is what my gloss coat looks like - not sure if that helps or not. A few decals in place. No silvering and these were all large decals with extensive clear areas (the flaps, for example, are one decal for the three letters and the red outline). I don't think you need a very heavy gloss coat if you are doing decals or washes. Sometimes I'll add a few drops of gloss clear to my color coats to help with smoothing them out for decaling and washes. But I don't really lay down a heavy clear coat. Maybe try a few light coats, see how they look after a few minutes, then if it doesn't look glossy enough hit it again? I've also sprayed Vallejo gloss coats over Vallejo color coats that I had sprayed 10 minutes before with no problems. And the matte/flat coats are very thin - just a mist and it seems to immediately take the shine off.
  14. CANicoll

    Drying time for Vallejo Clear Gloss?

    Yeah, we do the same things including the tupperware thing. COULD be a bad bottle - worth trying a new one I guess, but if you had the problem with the Model Master Acryl before I just wonder. Do you spray various different paints? Acrylics, enamels, lacquers? I just wonder if there might be some residue from previous jobs or maybe come cleaner left over? Like I said, grasping at straws here.
  15. CANicoll

    Drying time for Vallejo Clear Gloss?

    Lucas: Wow, that is an amazing problem - fingerprints a week later? I use Vallejo almost exclusively and for the clear, gloss I've been masking and decaling within 8-12 hours with no problems (and I'm not that far away from you, I'm near Ashburn!). If I leave it for 3-4 days it gets rock hard. I'm grasping at straws here but how much thinner are you using with the clear? I thin the clear with maybe 10% thinner and a drop of the Vallejo Flow Improver for every 8 to 10 drops of the clear. I'm spraying with an Iwata HP-CS which is a .35 needle (at 18 psi). What are you doing with the model after you spray it? To be honest, I don't do much with mine - pretty much leaving it in the spray booth for an hour or so with the fan running, then overnight just sitting there. Chris