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Everything posted by CANicoll

  1. Anthony: Put the yellow decals in the sun to try and remove the yellow. Once you do that, they are probably still going to be brittle so brush some clear decal film over them and let it dry. Now the entire sheet is 1 decal, so when you cut them out, do so closely to the actual decal itself (try it out on a decal you do not plan on using). You might try asking people here for another set, or seeing if you can order an aftermarket set as well. Good luck!! Chris
  2. This thread should be taken down. The original post was wrong in its assertion about Cadmium use in Vallejo paints, and has since been documented that Cadmium is not part of the Vallejo paints, SEVEN YEARS AGO. Moderators need to stop allowing this thread to be pinned and just close it.
  3. until

    THANK YOU!!!
  4. Perfect, it works great now. Thank you Steve! Chris
  5. until
    Please come by and say hello at the Nova IPMS club's annual event: our Model Classic. We expect about 800 people, about 650 models competing, more vendors than you can shake a stick at of all sorts. Our exhibitors include paper, ship, train and armor models clubs and the armor club will be staging a tank battle. The local LEGO club has been a long-time exhibitor and along with the Paper models are huge favorites. We have a make-and-take area and coloring for those youngsters (or oldsters) who need to take a break. Food is onsite as well provided by our wonderful sponsoring organization the Fairfax High School Choral Boosters. Coffee, soda, water, pizza, subs (and I THINK Hot Dogs if I remember correctly!) Also donuts, muffins, cookies - everything the serious modeler needs to keep up their strength! Renown researchers and authors Dana Bell and Jon Guttman will be both doing presentations and book signings. Event details and registration forms can be found HERE. I'll be working the contest registration table so please say hi if you come by. Chris Nicoll
  6. My IPMS club is having our usual annual show and I wanted to get it on the calendar but don't see how to create a post? Any ideas? Thanks! Chris
  7. Me too, which is maddening, but now I am uber-careful. Post it Notes do have an amazingly firm adhesive, strangely enough. I've had much better luck with heavily detacked Tamiya tape (and then only a VERY thin edge - I put paper under the rest of the tape) and am VERY careful how I remove the tape. BTW, letting the clear coat dry for several days also seems to help.
  8. Careful masking over decals even with a clear coat - if the decal is not firmly attached to the model underneath, tape can still pull it up even under a clear coat. Recommend you de-tack the tape a lot before masking over decals. Good luck!
  9. Eric: Well, yes and no. You are SUPPOSED to scrape off the paint, but if you don't, as long as you don't bump the part it seems to stay on, in my own experience. I did that with the drop tank on my P-39. I scrapped off the paint on the brace faces, but not the tank itself. It does stay on, but I would not handle it very much or I know it will come off. Good luck! Chris
  10. Took advantage of the holiday to get some serious build time in. I used a Dremel tool to fix the overlap, took some work and its not perfect but I can get the fuselage onto the wing now. I did some further adjusting after this. So what do you do when you forget to mask the outside of the windows on the door and end up with several coats of paint? Actually, put some cleaner on it, let it sit for a while. Took a toothpick to it and actually it came right up. 🙂 These were dipped in future to start with. Pretty pleased at the final result: The decals are pretty thick, so I put them down over a bit of MicroSet, then brushed some over the top as well. Even though they took about 5 minutes in water to loosen up, these sunk down into the panel lines really pretty well without a lot of work: Before adding in the landing gear doors. The red gas cap is thinned Vallejo red paint kind of a wash which sucked right down into the depressions that are the cap. The tires are resin and I drilled out the nose gear hinge. I did touch up the tires with the Black Gray paint. Here are all of the landing gear doors in place. Painted the top of the tail red with the while line, but got some bleed under the tape so need to do some touch-up. Also got the doors detailed on the inside. More to come! Chris
  11. Great stuff Gary, thanks for posting! Any update on the flight restrictions? Happy holidays! Chris
  12. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays everyone! SO I've been doing some building and even some picture taking, but not a lot of posting. Sorry about that. Let's get caught up! Here are the bits together ready for the primer coat (Vallejo gloss black) then the overcoat of Vallejo Dull Aluminum I'm using under the Olive Drab coat which I'm planning on weathering. I fashioned a 'handle' on the wing to hold onto while painting: One thing I noticed is that the wing intake part just did not fit well into the bottom wing and needed a lot of work: So on with the Vallejo white putty... and after some cleaning up and sanding. Took a couple of touch ups. After the primer coat then an overcoat of dull aluminum (and before the tires got their coat of Black Grey and the prop its black): The top of the wings and the elevators show my usual mottled paint to help vary the top-coat to show wear. Will hit it with a clear flat before the top coat of the Olive Drab (and some Green as well). Red spinner: Fuselage without the nose piece attached. Once I get the wings on (see below) I'll mock up the landing gear and then load up the nose with liquid gravity (powdered graphite) as a nose weight then close up the nose. Actually planning on rolling down the windows. 🙂 My first attempt at that so stay tuned! Test fitting the wing to the fuselage after the base coats - well, ran into THIS little problem: There is no way to compress the fuselage the 2-3mm needed to eliminate the overlap. The only solution I could think of is to grind the fuselage wing root (less to deal with than the wing) so went to Amazon and ordered a Dremel Motor tool (only about three years after tossing my old one.. sigh) which will be delivered tonight. We'll see what I'm able to do tomorrow! Thanks for looking. Chris
  13. Brian is the smart one here and is doing it the right way - that also helps keep things from breaking off. I just never do it unless I've really screwed something up. 🙂 I FINALLY bought a new set of drill bits so now I know the sizes. After all these years my previous set was spilled and I never could see which bit was which.
  14. Great! I just bought a new bottle of Gator Gel yesterday. Happy building! Chris
  15. Edit to my message above - My Formula 560 had a bunch of drying glue in the nozzle so what was coming out was already partially drying - now that I have cleaned it out (putting a canopy on a 1/48 P-39) the glue flows nicely and no strings. Good luck! Chris
  16. Mostly agree with dnl42 and some of the other comments. Gel CA gives you sticking power but also adjustment time. I use Gator Gel, but be careful as it seems to have an abundance of fumes. I do like Formula 560 but be aware that it is VERY sticky which is an advantage to attaching small parts - you might need thin it just a little bit (water) so you don't get the inevitable strings. I have also found with Formula 560 that if I screwed something up, I can 'break' off the part and reattach. One big advantage is that it dries clear. Good luck and happy building! Chris
  17. Thanks, guys! Comments are much appreciated. Best, Chris
  18. FINALLY, an update, sorry for the delay - 19 days traveling in November, then this month was our club's annual holiday party. Got the fuselage closed up after doing some adjusting to the instrument panel to move it back a bit. I cut the armored glass behind the pilot's head from some clear plastic from some retail packing. Radio cable is from the Eduard set, and also used some of the Eduard placards. Minimal of weathering except on the seat. Used the Eduard PE Seat belts which worked better than I thought they would. I used a drop of Formula 560 over each instrument face and the effect, showing up in pictures much better than the naked eye, works pretty well. 560 is VERY thick and sticky. I thin it just a bit with water to make it less stringy. Also masked the canopy using Eduard masks. It is me or are sometimes the masks oversized a bit? Admittedly some of the panel lines on the clear cockpit are kind of vague but had to do a bit of trimming esp on the back glass over the radio. I've also seen where I've had to scrunch up the masks on some canopies. And for this particular kit, two key masks are missing: there are only masks for one door inside and out (R5 and R6), or two doors, but only inside or only outside - which doesn't work for the P-39 as most kits (including this one) mold the P-39 doors in clear plastic. I'm planning on using 'Liquid Gravity' in the nose to keep it from being a tail-sitter so I filled in the gaps at the back of the nose gear bay with some Vallejo Acrylic putty. Speaking of the bottom - I added Eduard's PE vent screens and flaps. Here is a few of the screens into a light. Of course, when the wing is attached to the fuselage you will not see anything behind the screen but oh well: And the last part of the update is work on the amazing Quickboost resin exhausts. Picked these up from Spruebrothers but saw a LOT of Quickboost at Scale Model World in Telford and picked some up for some other kits. Base color is Vallejo Gun metal, some dry brushing with Vallejo Black Grey and the inside of the exhausts painted black. I'll add some brown and perhaps light gray later. Next up is to close up the wing and then check the fuselage seams, find two more masks for the doors, add the ballast into the nose and close that up, then lay down a layer of primer (and of course that landing gear!). So still a lot to do! Thanks for following along, hope to mostly finish this up this month. Chris
  19. Facinating pictures and commentary, thanks for sharing! Still keeping an eye. Best Chris
  20. RB Productions carries the full line. Here is the link to their online store showing the four stencils. Be aware that the two larger stencils are repeats of the two smaller ones. Take a close look and you'll see. Chris
  21. Cheers Gary, Thanks for the update! Means a lot actually as now I'll leave the big tripod and the 200-500 home which completely changes my photo bag to something much smaller and more manageable. The good news is I'm sure I'll have other chances next year to come over and maybe by then the ban will have been lifted. Really do appreciate the updates! Chris
  22. Thank you for the link - VERY helpful and timely as well! Much appreciated. I did a quick skim of the pages and I think the consensus is that Pokryshkin's aircraft did not sport any kill markings and that the photographs of him in front of marked aircraft were of other pilots planes. Now the question is the color of the disk behind the fuselage star. Great source, thank you again! Chris
  23. Ahhh, that is good to know. Do you have a photo of his plane with the correct markings? I've seen pictures with two different sets of stars on the nose, but don't know if that represents different times, different aircraft or what. Thanks, Chris
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