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CANicoll

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Everything posted by CANicoll

  1. Anthony: Put the yellow decals in the sun to try and remove the yellow. Once you do that, they are probably still going to be brittle so brush some clear decal film over them and let it dry. Now the entire sheet is 1 decal, so when you cut them out, do so closely to the actual decal itself (try it out on a decal you do not plan on using). You might try asking people here for another set, or seeing if you can order an aftermarket set as well. Good luck!! Chris
  2. until

    THANK YOU!!!
  3. Perfect, it works great now. Thank you Steve! Chris
  4. until
    Please come by and say hello at the Nova IPMS club's annual event: our Model Classic. We expect about 800 people, about 650 models competing, more vendors than you can shake a stick at of all sorts. Our exhibitors include paper, ship, train and armor models clubs and the armor club will be staging a tank battle. The local LEGO club has been a long-time exhibitor and along with the Paper models are huge favorites. We have a make-and-take area and coloring for those youngsters (or oldsters) who need to take a break. Food is onsite as well provided by our wonderful sponsoring org
  5. My IPMS club is having our usual annual show and I wanted to get it on the calendar but don't see how to create a post? Any ideas? Thanks! Chris
  6. Me too, which is maddening, but now I am uber-careful. Post it Notes do have an amazingly firm adhesive, strangely enough. I've had much better luck with heavily detacked Tamiya tape (and then only a VERY thin edge - I put paper under the rest of the tape) and am VERY careful how I remove the tape. BTW, letting the clear coat dry for several days also seems to help.
  7. Careful masking over decals even with a clear coat - if the decal is not firmly attached to the model underneath, tape can still pull it up even under a clear coat. Recommend you de-tack the tape a lot before masking over decals. Good luck!
  8. Eric: Well, yes and no. You are SUPPOSED to scrape off the paint, but if you don't, as long as you don't bump the part it seems to stay on, in my own experience. I did that with the drop tank on my P-39. I scrapped off the paint on the brace faces, but not the tank itself. It does stay on, but I would not handle it very much or I know it will come off. Good luck! Chris
  9. Took advantage of the holiday to get some serious build time in. I used a Dremel tool to fix the overlap, took some work and its not perfect but I can get the fuselage onto the wing now. I did some further adjusting after this. So what do you do when you forget to mask the outside of the windows on the door and end up with several coats of paint? Actually, put some cleaner on it, let it sit for a while. Took a toothpick to it and actually it came right up. 🙂 These were dipped in future to start with. Pretty pleased at the final result:
  10. Great stuff Gary, thanks for posting! Any update on the flight restrictions? Happy holidays! Chris
  11. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays everyone! SO I've been doing some building and even some picture taking, but not a lot of posting. Sorry about that. Let's get caught up! Here are the bits together ready for the primer coat (Vallejo gloss black) then the overcoat of Vallejo Dull Aluminum I'm using under the Olive Drab coat which I'm planning on weathering. I fashioned a 'handle' on the wing to hold onto while painting: One thing I noticed is that the wing intake part just did not fit well into the bottom wing and needed a lot of wor
  12. Brian is the smart one here and is doing it the right way - that also helps keep things from breaking off. I just never do it unless I've really screwed something up. 🙂 I FINALLY bought a new set of drill bits so now I know the sizes. After all these years my previous set was spilled and I never could see which bit was which.
  13. Great! I just bought a new bottle of Gator Gel yesterday. Happy building! Chris
  14. Edit to my message above - My Formula 560 had a bunch of drying glue in the nozzle so what was coming out was already partially drying - now that I have cleaned it out (putting a canopy on a 1/48 P-39) the glue flows nicely and no strings. Good luck! Chris
  15. Mostly agree with dnl42 and some of the other comments. Gel CA gives you sticking power but also adjustment time. I use Gator Gel, but be careful as it seems to have an abundance of fumes. I do like Formula 560 but be aware that it is VERY sticky which is an advantage to attaching small parts - you might need thin it just a little bit (water) so you don't get the inevitable strings. I have also found with Formula 560 that if I screwed something up, I can 'break' off the part and reattach. One big advantage is that it dries clear. Good luck and happy building! Chri
  16. Thanks, guys! Comments are much appreciated. Best, Chris
  17. FINALLY, an update, sorry for the delay - 19 days traveling in November, then this month was our club's annual holiday party. Got the fuselage closed up after doing some adjusting to the instrument panel to move it back a bit. I cut the armored glass behind the pilot's head from some clear plastic from some retail packing. Radio cable is from the Eduard set, and also used some of the Eduard placards. Minimal of weathering except on the seat. Used the Eduard PE Seat belts which worked better than I thought they would. I used a drop of Formula 560 over each instr
  18. Facinating pictures and commentary, thanks for sharing! Still keeping an eye. Best Chris
  19. RB Productions carries the full line. Here is the link to their online store showing the four stencils. Be aware that the two larger stencils are repeats of the two smaller ones. Take a close look and you'll see. Chris
  20. Cheers Gary, Thanks for the update! Means a lot actually as now I'll leave the big tripod and the 200-500 home which completely changes my photo bag to something much smaller and more manageable. The good news is I'm sure I'll have other chances next year to come over and maybe by then the ban will have been lifted. Really do appreciate the updates! Chris
  21. Thank you for the link - VERY helpful and timely as well! Much appreciated. I did a quick skim of the pages and I think the consensus is that Pokryshkin's aircraft did not sport any kill markings and that the photographs of him in front of marked aircraft were of other pilots planes. Now the question is the color of the disk behind the fuselage star. Great source, thank you again! Chris
  22. Ahhh, that is good to know. Do you have a photo of his plane with the correct markings? I've seen pictures with two different sets of stars on the nose, but don't know if that represents different times, different aircraft or what. Thanks, Chris
  23. Thanks guys for the comments and encouragement. I'm in a bit of a lull due to a heavy work load and business trips for much of Nov (including a trip to Telford for Scale Model World). Will see how much I can get done this week (got a bit more work done on the cockpit this past weekend). Thanks! Chris
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