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CANicoll

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Posts posted by CANicoll

  1. Anthony:

     

    Put the yellow decals in the sun to try and remove the yellow.  Once you do that, they are probably still going to be brittle so brush some clear decal film over them and let it dry.  Now the entire sheet is 1 decal, so when you cut them out, do so closely to the actual decal itself (try it out on a decal you do not plan on using).

     

    You might try asking people here for another set, or seeing if you can order an aftermarket set as well.


    Good luck!!

    Chris

  2. Me too, which is maddening, but now I am uber-careful.  Post it Notes do have an amazingly firm adhesive, strangely enough.  I've had much better luck with heavily detacked Tamiya tape (and then only a VERY thin edge - I put paper under the rest of the tape) and am VERY careful how I remove the tape.


    BTW, letting the clear coat dry for several days also seems to help.

  3. 3 minutes ago, echolmberg said:

    If you're using CA, do you have to worry about scraping paint away from a painted surface?  I'll be honest with you...it's not uncommon for me to leave off sensors from the side of a fuselage because I just can't stand trying to deal with them.  If I need to scrape some paint off an area that's the same size as the dot over the "i", I'd rather not deal with it.  If you check out some of my F-14 builds, you won't find any of those pointy little sensors on the fuselage sides because of my distaste at dealing with such things.

     

    Eric

     

    Eric:  Well, yes and no.  You are SUPPOSED to scrape off the paint, but if you don't, as long as you don't bump the part it seems to stay on, in my own experience.  I did that with the drop tank on my P-39.  I scrapped off the paint on the brace faces, but not the tank itself.  It does stay on, but I would not handle it very much or I know it will come off.


    Good luck!

    Chris

     

  4. Took advantage of the holiday to get some serious build time in.

     

    I used a Dremel tool to fix the overlap, took some work and its not perfect but I can get the fuselage onto the wing now.  I did some further adjusting after this.

    cm88tC.jpg

     

    So what do you do when you forget to mask the outside of the windows on the door and end up with several coats of paint?  Actually, put some cleaner on it, let it sit for a while.  Took a toothpick to it and actually it came right up.  🙂  These were dipped in future to start with.

    fJubjq.jpg

     

    Pretty pleased at the final result:

    hRxJPS.jpg

     

    The decals are pretty thick, so I put them down over a bit of MicroSet, then brushed some over the top as well.  Even though they took about 5 minutes in water to loosen up, these sunk down into the panel lines really pretty well without a lot of work:

    7k9kNb.jpg

     

    Before adding in the landing gear doors.  The red gas cap is thinned Vallejo red paint kind of a wash which sucked right down into the depressions that are the cap.

    JUfeE8.jpg

    c7naD7.jpg

    W3hUpX.jpg

    IgPP0r.jpg

    The tires are resin and I drilled out the nose gear hinge. I did touch up the tires with the Black Gray paint.

     

    Here are all of the landing gear doors in place.

    o89VMW.jpg

     

    Painted the top of the tail red with the while line, but got some bleed under the tape so need to do some touch-up.  Also got the doors detailed on the inside.

     

    More to come!

    Chris

  5. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays everyone!

     

    SO I've been doing some building and even some picture taking, but not a lot of posting.  Sorry about that.  Let's get caught up!

     

    Here are the bits together ready for the primer coat (Vallejo gloss black) then the overcoat of Vallejo Dull Aluminum I'm using under the Olive Drab coat which I'm planning on weathering.

    qkxIg1.jpg

     

    I fashioned a 'handle' on the wing to hold onto while painting:

    TQEhC0.jpg

     

    One thing I noticed is that the wing intake part just did not fit well into the bottom wing and needed a lot of work:

    IvQRiw.jpg

    So on with the Vallejo white putty...

    KW2pid.jpg

    and after some cleaning up and sanding.  Took a couple of touch ups.

    SZdpsw.jpg

     

    After the primer coat then an overcoat of dull aluminum (and before the tires got their coat of Black Grey and the prop its black):

    DZ8Vb7.jpg

    The top of the wings and the elevators show my usual mottled paint to help vary the top-coat to show wear.  Will hit it with a clear flat before the top coat of the Olive Drab (and some Green as well).  

     

    Red spinner:

    U5Fz3A.jpg

     

    Fuselage without the nose piece attached.  Once I get the wings on (see below) I'll mock up the landing gear and then load up the nose with liquid gravity (powdered graphite) as a nose weight then close up the nose.

    XXiKg7.jpg


    Actually planning on rolling down the windows. 🙂  My first attempt at that so stay tuned!

     

    Test fitting the wing to the fuselage after the base coats - well, ran into THIS little problem:

    Oj8fIU.jpg

     

    There is no way to compress the fuselage the 2-3mm needed to eliminate the overlap.  The only solution I could think of is to grind the fuselage wing root (less to deal with than the wing) so went to Amazon and ordered a Dremel Motor tool (only about three years after tossing my old one.. sigh) which will be delivered tonight.  We'll see what I'm able to do tomorrow!

     

    Thanks for looking.

    Chris

  6. Mostly agree with dnl42  and some of the other comments.  Gel CA gives you sticking power but also adjustment time. I use Gator Gel, but be careful as it seems to have an abundance of fumes. 

     

    I do like Formula 560 but be aware that it is VERY sticky which is an advantage to attaching small parts - you might need thin it just a little bit (water) so you don't get the inevitable strings.  I have also found with Formula 560 that if I screwed something up, I can 'break' off the part and reattach.  One big advantage is that it dries clear.


    Good luck and happy building!

    Chris

  7. FINALLY, an update, sorry for the delay - 19 days traveling in November, then this month was our club's annual holiday party.

     

    Got the fuselage closed up after doing some adjusting to the instrument panel to move it back a bit. I cut the armored glass behind the pilot's head from some clear plastic from some retail packing.  Radio cable is from the Eduard set, and also used some of the Eduard placards. 

    Gid1PC.jpg

     

    Minimal of weathering except on the seat.  Used the Eduard PE Seat belts which worked better than I thought they would.  I used a drop of Formula 560 over each instrument face and the effect, showing up in pictures much better than the naked eye, works pretty well.  560 is VERY thick and sticky.  I thin it just a bit with water to make it less stringy.

    deTvt9.jpg

    awlpiV.jpg

     

    Also masked the canopy using Eduard masks.  It is me or are sometimes the masks oversized a bit?  Admittedly some of the panel lines on the clear cockpit are kind of vague but had to do a bit of trimming esp on the back glass over the radio.  I've also seen where I've had to scrunch up the masks on some canopies.

    0bNXap.jpg

     

    And for this particular kit, two key masks are missing:  there are only masks for one door inside and out (R5 and R6), or two doors, but only inside or only outside - which doesn't work for the P-39 as most kits (including this one) mold the P-39 doors in clear plastic.

    rX6FQ6.jpg

     

    I'm planning on using 'Liquid Gravity' in the nose to keep it from being a tail-sitter so I filled in the gaps at the back of the nose gear bay with some Vallejo Acrylic putty.

    zyPvKa.jpg

     

    Speaking of the bottom - I added Eduard's PE vent screens and flaps.  Here is a few of the screens into a light.  Of course, when the wing is attached to the fuselage you will not see anything behind the screen but oh well:

    2WXHXu.jpg

    YEp39p.jpg

     

    And the last part of the update is work on the amazing Quickboost resin exhausts.  Picked these up from Spruebrothers but saw a LOT of Quickboost at Scale Model World in Telford and picked some up for some other kits.  Base color is Vallejo Gun metal, some dry brushing with Vallejo Black Grey and the inside of the exhausts painted black.  I'll add some brown and perhaps light gray later.

    oQfBqG.jpg

    y6Cwum.jpg

     

    Next up is to close up the wing and then check the fuselage seams, find two more masks for the doors, add the ballast into the nose and close that up, then lay down a layer of primer (and of course that landing gear!).  So still a lot to do!


    Thanks for following along, hope to mostly finish this up this month.

     

    Chris

     

  8. Cheers Gary,


    Thanks for the update!  Means a lot actually as now I'll leave the big tripod and the 200-500 home which completely changes my photo bag to something much smaller and more manageable.  The good news is I'm sure I'll have other chances next year to come over and maybe by then the ban will have been lifted.


    Really do appreciate the updates!

    Chris

  9. 8 hours ago, Mfezi said:

    If you want more info on this aircraft and its markings, I highly recommend you read through the thread linked below on Massimo Tessitori's site, which specifically deals with Pokryshkin's 100. It it impossible to say whether the profiles towards the end of that discussion represent the final word on this aircraft - rather read through the material and make your own conclusions:

    http://massimotessitori.altervista.org/sovietwarplanes/board/index.php?topic=1367.0

     

     

    Thank you for the link - VERY helpful and timely as well!  Much appreciated.  I did a quick skim of the pages and I think the consensus is that Pokryshkin's aircraft did not sport any kill markings and that the photographs of him in front of marked aircraft were of other pilots planes.  Now the question is the color of the disk behind the fuselage star.  Great source, thank you again!

     

    Chris

  10. 7 hours ago, Helmsman said:

    As far as I remember, Pokryshkin's plane had not that many stars on it. The famous photo's of him were made using other plane flown by G. Rechkalov. So Hasegawa box photo is a bit incorrect.

     

    Ahhh, that is good to know.  Do you have a photo of his plane with the correct markings?  I've seen pictures with two different sets of stars on the nose, but don't know if that represents different times, different aircraft or what.

     

    Thanks, Chris

  11. Thanks guys for the comments and encouragement.  I'm in a bit of a lull due to a heavy work load and business trips for much of Nov (including a trip to Telford for Scale Model World).

    Will see how much I can get done this week (got a bit more work done on the cockpit this past weekend).

     

    Thanks!

    Chris

  12. Ahh, well, that is a bummer.  I do understand the need to adhere to rules, of course, but hopefully the vast majority of pilots do adhere to the rules which keeps everyone safe (pilots, residents and aircraft).  That was a LOW flight for sure.  It is fun to see however.  And the squeal at the end was a bonus.  Apparently, looking at her twitter feed, she caught a world of crap for the posting.  Seems like she has a lot of support, thankfully.

     

    Chris

  13. Scott is too funny!  Lots of great ideas there.

     

    Also:  

    I put a white towel across my lap to catch small parts that fall or launch.  Agree on the flashlight in case pieces make it to the carpet.  Also a small nylon sock to fit over the end of the vacuum hose in case I REALLY need to find small part that hit the carpet.  Amazing how much stuff that will pull up if you don't vacuum regularly.

     

    Chris

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