CANicoll
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Everything posted by CANicoll
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1/48 von Richthofen's Fokker Dr.1
CANicoll replied to CaptainObvious's topic in Revell Monogram Group build
Looking GREAT! nice job on this old kit. Chris -
Thanks! I'll look tonight to see how well the decals sat but looking at it last night, the camo decals really settle into the panel lines pretty easily. I think the issue is when you have to apply decals over the camo decals (like the Hinomarus, or the stripe that goes along the fuselage). We'll see tonight! Chris
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Next phase of the camo decals. The camo decals are large, compared to the size of the aircraft itself, and are very thin, but also somewhat delicate - I ripped the left size fuselage camo decal in two different places. It also appears to be somewhat long. So for the right side I cut the decal into two pieces, separating the nose (which does seem delicate with the exhaust cut-out) from the rest: Strongly suggest doing that on the left side of the fuselage camo decal as there are three cut outs in the nose, for the exhaust, the intake and a vent tube. The
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While waiting for the tail to dry just HAD to try those camo decals. Put down over MicroSol and they went down amazingly easy. Overbrushed with MicroSet and the wing decals are pretty well snugged down into panel lines. Doesn't really look like paint just yet, but hoping an overspray of flat/matte takes care of that. Not sure about the red tail and the red in the stripe and the Hinomaru. Jury still out on that but it might be a bit too bright. In the same light, it looks pretty close as you can see from the picture above and below, the lighting is really critical
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Got the tail painted but for the life of me don't know why I didn't do this before assembly. Still have a bit of touch up to do, but it came out ok. Looked at five different reds and it looks like the Vallejo Ferrari Red is the closest to the decal red. Looked at Humbrol and Model Master enamels as well, but none of them seemed to match well. Also overcoated with clear gloss to get ready for the tail decals. Also the first set of decals on the wings with MicroSol under and over. Now will let the tail dry for a few days and work on the fuselage and
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Thanks! I will take a look. Liking this kit, but wish there was an open-canopy version. A friend of mine says he can do a vacuformed canopy... Maybe next time! Chris
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Mario, Thanks for this - I'm going to leave the yellow as it - too far long esp on the interior (which is under the canopy now). Tamiya has the color lighter than you (recommending XF-64 Red Brow and the other vendors colors are similar) and looking at period photos the color does seem to be more brown than mahogany. Chris
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Next round of paint, and repainted the spinner, prop and backing plate (thanks for the heads up sakai on the wrong color!). Here is the paint used for today's work: The Humbrol is for the prop and spinner. Masking getting ready to paint the flaps and the wheel wells. Having had such bad luck with overspray, really covered everything up this time! And topside, showing the main tires: And the aftermath: Flaps are Flat Aluminum while the wheel wells (and the interior) are dark yellow. Topside: Here are the repai
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I will take a look, thanks! I don't have ready access to the Gunze line of paints, but will check the colors. Cheers, Chris
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Making progress - getting the base coat down and next are those huge fuselage and wing-top decals. Has anyone done those yet? The masks arrived today (YAY!) so got to work straight away. Something like 16 masks just for the canopy - they are TINY. Got the landing gear painted (gloss black, silver bands, yellow legs by the wheels. Interesting looking landing gear. Attached the canopy with clear Formula 560 glue. Let it set up for about 6 hours before painting. Used the Vallejo gloss black primer as the base. I've had problems i
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Good point, I never clear coat my wheels/tires (or the canopies!!!!)
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More specifically: 1. If you want to use enamel weathering products, then use an Acrylic clear coat. Model Master, Vallejo, Tamiya. Let it dry for at least 24-48 hours for best results. I use both Model Master and Vallejo (since Model Master is getting harder to find). 2. Agreed, either an enamel or acrylic clear coat to seal the decals. 3. No, you do not need to seal weathering if you don't want to. That is a preference based on your own needs: will the model be handled a lot? If yes and you are using pastel chalks for weathering or just want avoid
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So on top of the decals (after a day or two to let them completely dry) apply your next clear coat - meaning one of the clear products from your favorite paint manufacturer. There are usually clear gloss, clear flat and clear 'matte' or semi-gloss versions available. If you already have an enamel clear coat under the decals, I would do an enamel clear coat on top as well. Mostly what you are doing is sealing the decals (and blending in any remaining clear carrier film as well) and any weathering you have done (or prepping the surface for the weathering). I've done clear flat ove
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Making some progress with the Hien - the fit is amazing but you definitely have to be careful removing the remnants of the sprue attachments. Rather than just chisel it off, I overdid a bit of the sanding on the front of the wing next to the machine gun and had to add a bit of filler. But still amazing fit. I attached the wing and the fit looks perfect. Just have to love Tamiya kits. Compared to the 1/32 kits (and even the larger 1/48 kits) this is not a big plane. Got the nose gun panel and the spine panels on. I'll be interested to see how it looks afte
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Thank you! In 1/72 scale there is no engine (probably thankfully!) There is a circular piece with a poly-cap to insert the propeller and spinner into but that is it for the front part of the kit. That is one of the things I like, actually: these are pretty quick builds but retain a fair amount of detail, esp in the cockpit. What scheme did you do your 1/48 in? Chris
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I ordered mine from Ebay (China). Came in about two weeks despite saying shipping was 4-6 weeks, so slower than SB or Squadron (who always seems to be out of stock of things I want, including three Eduard masks that were in stock at SB so ordered from them ) but also about half the price. Plus I'll be lucky if I build it this year so I could afford to wait.
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After you are done with your weathering you can put a clear coat (flat, gloss, matte) over your final washes and such or just leave it (esp if it is not to be handled very much. But definitely use a different clear and weathering mediums. Enamel and acrylic alternated works best. Good luck! Chris
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Sorry, have not used IE, but I use Chrome and it works perfectly.
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Excellent! I found a similar thing with the wood PE templates. They come from Radu! Cheers, Chris
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It has been a while since I've built a Tamiya kit and wow, how nice it is to put together a kit that REALLY FITS! So many pieces just go in place and some I had to really work to get apart so I could glue them in. Sweet! Here is the box shot: I've opted for the extra decals from Tamiya to do the very interesting aircraft of 2nd Lt Shunzo Takashima of the 244th Air Group. Also some Eduard Brassin but at this point I'm not sure I'll use the wheels. The kit wheels actually look pretty good as it. And the Brassin exhaust is not hollow so I'll take a closer look with th
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Ok, that made me laugh out loud....
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Apologies for all of the radio silence. A combination of weekends getting busy, trying to get my WWI builds (all three plus the rigging for the WNW DH 9a) moving forward and not a great response from Prop Blur on a properly sized prop for the build (basically - "well - you have to measure and see if it fits"... NOT helpful). SO, I did peel off the plastic covers (oops) from the prop-blur but that gave me a second chance at painting the props. I did take Southwestforests' advice and NOT use a straight black. Instead used the Luftwaffe Black Grey (which I also use for tires and ot
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👍 Well done!
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You should not have too much trouble finding it. At the IPMS Nationals one of the vendors had a stack of at least 20 of them, going for $25 each. I know they sold a lot of them, but don't think they got rid of them all. I'd keep searching to see if you can find one in the states. Where are you located? Chris
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How to attach already painted missiles/bombs to the model
CANicoll replied to strikeeagle801's topic in General Discussion
The Tamiya Extra Thin will clear out any acrylic paint pretty quickly but had not tried MKK. Mmmmm Have used F560 esp on canopies and such but nice to know it works on other things as well (such as radar antennas, etc). Keep the tips coming!