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modelingbob

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  1. modelingbob

    Mr. Surfacer

    I have had success with Mr Replenishing Agent when it was the consistency of tar!!! The stuff is expensive, but it works!!!!
  2. modelingbob

    Mr. Surfacer

    Yes, you can thin it with either Mr Color Thinner Or Mr Replenishing Agent. Both work great. I tend to use the Mr Color Thinner the most, unless the Mr Surfacer is extremely thick (and I mean really thick!), and then I use the Replenishing Agent.
  3. modelingbob

    How to fix overthinned paint?

    The best way is to buy another bottle of the exact same paint, and then use that paint to "thicken up" the already thinned paint to your desired viscosity by mixing them together. Of course that may mean you have several bottles of the same paint lying around! As a general rule, it is probably better to not "pre-thin" your paint prior to actual use as the addition of thinner can mess with some types of paint chemistry (particularly enamels) and affect shelf storage life.
  4. modelingbob

    Hobbyshops in the San Francisco Bay Area

    Silicon Valley Scale Modelers http://www.svsm.org/ Fremont Hornets https://fremonthornets.yolasite.com/
  5. modelingbob

    Your choice for a rattle can gloss coat?

    As others have said, Tamiya rattle can gloss is a pretty "hot" clearcoat and can damage decals and paint if applied too heavily. If you do use it, make sure you do several very light misting coats first and let them dry before blasting on a heavier coat. Don't ask me how I know this!!!!
  6. modelingbob

    Crazy prices on Kittyhawk kits,ebay.

    Most likely a scam similar to the 1/32 Tamiya Corsair debacle a short while ago. But, you never know, and with Ebay/PayPal protections, you may not lose a dime and waste nothing but your time.
  7. modelingbob

    Hobbyshops in the San Francisco Bay Area

    WOWZERS, you're really going in the way back machine if you can remember Tower and San Antonio. They've both been gone for a very long time! AHHHHH, fond memories!!! Yep, I went into Yanni's shop a time or two. Yep, it didn't last too long!!! D&J had to move when they renovated the strip mall and jacked up the rent. The only reason they survived as long as they did is because they had a way below market rent. They downsized and moved down the street to give it a go, but the smaller location (which is all they could afford) pretty much sealed their fate. They were lucky that they were able to dodge the Bay Area high rents for so long, but that eventually caught up to them.
  8. modelingbob

    Hobbyshops in the San Francisco Bay Area

    Long gone Jerry. It closed up shop around 20 years ago. Where it used to be located is now a planned urban shopping/residential village that's very upscale. They probably would have had to move (assuming they were still in business) since there is no way a hobby shop could afford the rent in the new village! It was a great shop though and I used to spend a lot of money there (but my work was only a couple miles away so it was quite close). The bay area is now a hobby shop wasteland, not much around!
  9. modelingbob

    Hobbyshops in the San Francisco Bay Area

    How far you willing to drive? The short answer is no, if you only want to drive in the immediate area of SFO (or are relying strictly on public transit). The long answer is yes if you're willing to drive across some of the bridges. To give you a general idea, I live in the area, have a car, and 90% + of my modeling $$$$ are spent via on-line retailers!!!
  10. modelingbob

    How do you know when paint "goes bad"

    Yes, paint goes "bad" over time. The time varies widely. I have some old Humbrol enamels that are over 20 years old and still work great. OTOH, I have some Testors MM that I can get barely a month or two out of. You can usually tell if the paints gone "bad" pretty easily. Not thinning smoothly, big clumps of solidified paint, pigments separating out, etc are signs that your paint may be well past its prime.
  11. modelingbob

    Hasegawa F/A-18D 1/48

    If the San Jose shop you remember is D&J Hobby, then sadly, it closed down last year (2017). No more good modeling related hobby shops in the South Bay. Still a few RC related shops hanging on, with limited selections of tools, glues, and paint, (but no kits) but most of those have also closed. The shop in San Leandro (East Bay) (Hobbies Unlimited) is still operating, but that's over a 50 mile one way dedicated drive for me (not on the way to any place I go) , so I rarely visit it.
  12. modelingbob

    Hasegawa F/A-18D 1/48

    San Antonio Hobbies on the corner of El Camino Real and San Antonio Road???? It's now a huge planned residential/commercial shopping district that's quite toney!!!!
  13. modelingbob

    Finishing coat on model.

    Nope. No final clear coat needed if you're happy with the sheen/finish. The only thing I always seal with a clear coat is decals to help prevent them from lifting and to help hide the carrier film.
  14. modelingbob

    Finishing coat on model.

    I do not recommend using an enamel varnish with enamel weathering products. Since they both use a similar solvent they will react with each other (unfavorably!). Use a dis-similar varnish, from whatever you plan on doing your weathering with. For example, If I were using enamel weathering products I would use a lacquer or acrylic varnish (clear coat). If I were using an acrylic weathering product I would use a lacquer or enamel varnish (clear coat).
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