modelingbob

I have used Quinta, Kelik, and Eduard Space 3D decals. All are good and I've had no significant issues with any of them. My personal selections, in order of preference: 1) Quinta, 2) Kelik, and 3) Eduard. If it's available through Quinta, I'll buy them over all the others as I feel it is the best of the lot.

Nope, don't find it annoying at all. It costs a lot for a retailer to bring in an entire paint line, and keep inventory up to date. And as for local retailers going out of business, well that's just how the market is responding, and again it's difficult for a retailer to bring in lines of products that are definitely niche markets. For example, I ONLY buy MRP if I can't find the paint shade I want from other suppliers. Mr Color is my go to paint, whereas others prefer MRP. And since you live in the US, like me, I will mention Super Hobby in Poland has the complete MRP line in stock and shippin

I agree with Peter. Unless you like going down rabbit holes!

Don't ask me how I know that!!!! It eats paint, especially acrylics and acrylic lacquers, so be careful and apply sparingly. But, it does work very good on most decals.

Nope you didn't get a bad bottle, the Setter has a milky look. Not too worry, when it dries, it will be clear. A warning, Mr Mark Softer is strong stuff and will eat paint if you apply too much and let it pool. Use sparingly and dab up any pooling immediately.

Because you specifically asked about shipping from the USA to a foreign country. As I already explained, you can't air ship any paints with the "flame" icon via air without extra documentation. That's the law. Find another country that doesn't have that law and get your paints from there.

If the paint has the "flame" icon printed on the label, it can't be legally shipped via air in the USA, without the extra documentation required (and of course, that's expensive). It's the law and there is no point in arguing it, it is what it is.

Yep, to tone down "overdone" weathering, applying a light mist of the base color by airbrush is a great way to go. I usually start with 9 parts thinner to 1 part paint. Spray lightly and build up wherever you need it.

I was faced with the exact same issue. I went with a cheap spray booth. This one to be exact: https://usartsupply.com/collections/airbrush-spray-booths/products/mas-b440dclk It's plastic, and cheaply made, but it does a good job of removing paint fumes from my modeling room. I use smelly lacquer based paints, and when I run it while airbrushing I can clear my small modeling room of fumes in minutes, and nothing gets to the rest of the house. Of course there are better (and more expensive!) options out there, but I'm cheap!!!!

It's hit or miss on popular colors with USA stockists. I buy direct from Ammo in Spain. They have always had the popular colors in stock. Cost is about the same from USA sources, even after you add in international postage. Takes on average about a month from order to actually in my hands in the USA, using the cheapest shipping option.

Yes, they are enamel based. Yes, you can substitute oil tube paints and do many of the same things. Yes, they offer a few advantages over oils, especially in regards to color selection for modeling purposes so you don't have to mix colors. I use both oils and MiG products on my models.

Fully cured AquaGloss can be sanded/polished.

Another vote for Tamiya X-22 thinned with lacquer thinner for clear gloss. For matte, I mainly use Testors Dullcote, but also use Mr Hobby (GUNZE) GX Super Clear Matt.

Tamiya enamels are fantastic. I live in the US and ordered them via Ebay from Chinese sellers. All were reliable and quick shippers.

What Viper said. My experiences are the same as his.