320 Driver
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Posts posted by 320 Driver
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I fly both the 319 and 320. The 319 has a strake or fin or fence or whatever it's called on the outboard side of the nacelle in addition to the inboard side. The 320 only has the inboard one.
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So I've painted wings and fuselages light grey (Mr Color) and would like to figure out the best way to wash the panel lines and control surfaces so they pop out a bit. I tried Testors Acrylic Wash on a practice piece and it was not pretty. Any suggestions?
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Here's what I'm doing:
Spray the interior a mix of flat black and dark grey to get the fan. Then take either a white/grey paint pen from michaels to make the spinner swirl and if you want, trace the circumference around the fan. Then use a pencil to draw in the acoustic paneling. Then take a toothpick dipped in light gray and lay it down horizontally to mark the dividing lines. Then paint the leading edge of the cowling flat aluminum. I'm doing this exact thing right now for my 767 engines. I'll post the result hopefully tonight or tomorrow.
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40 minutes ago, RichardL said:
Does it survive the masking tape test? In other words, if masking tape is pressed hard onto it and quickly pulled up after a couple of hours, does the tape lift up the paint pigments also?
Probably not, but I wouldn't mask any bare metal finish. I try and save the metal coat for last.
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Valspar Metallic Spray paint. Easy to use, cheap and man it shines like a freakin' mirror. Better/more durable than Spaz Stix or Alclad.
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11 minutes ago, RichardL said:
Any lacquer paint that's not already pre-thinned for direct airbrush use, such as Mr. Color, AK Real Colors, and Hataka Orange Line, will require around 50:50 paint to lacquer thinner ratio for proper spraying. Depending on the color, sometimes a little more thinner is needed. For example, 5 drops of paint to 6 drops of thinner.
I thought Mr Color was a synthetic acrylic?
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Great tips thank you all. I'll try again Wednesday and report back!
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I bought an Iwata Eclipse a couple years ago and today was my first time using it. I was using Mr Color Light gray to paint 767 wings and roots. I poured some of the paint into the cup, bubbled it with a couple drops of Mr Thinner and turned up to about 25 psi. I got really weak flow, blotchy uneven finish and little speckles on the surface.
Any suggestions on how to make the process smoother? Seemed I couldn't get a nice uniform flow going unless I turned psi way up to around 30 and even then the stream just did not seem wide enough for an even cover.
Thanks for any tips!
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I'm working through (finally) my resurrection of an old Revell 767-300 kit (old AA colors).
What are some color recommendations for:
1) The fan blades and spinner? - Flat black with some kind of wash?2) The little swirl on the spinner - how do you guys do this anyway?
3) The exhaust port? It looks like there are two colors here - a rust and some metallic.
Any thoughts are much appreciated.
Thanks!
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This is perhaps the most beautiful AA airliner model I've seen. 9.9999 out of 10. Which colors did you use? And as much as I hate to ask, I have to...why is the AA on the vertical stab crooked? I think you should reapply that decal to make it level. That would give it a 10/10 for me 🙂
But seriously, NICE WORK!!!!! -
Took a hiatus due to it being too cold and due to my analysis paralysis of building/buying a spraybooth (which I don't want to do). So waiting for the weather to warm a little so I can paint in the garage or outside.
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Just use Shutterfly
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THanks for the info! I started with Squadron putty but have fallen in love with Perfect Plastic Putty. It's pretty easy for a noob like me to use. Only challenge with it is not wiping it off while cleaning up the area,
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Thanks for the recs.. One final question on this. I know I don't need to thin the paints, but I do have a Mr Color grey I plan to use for the tail/fairings. I also have Mr Color thinner. What's the best way to thin it for application by my Eclipse airbrush? I have a dropper - Am I looking to mix it to the consistency of milk?
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By the way that Peacemaker is gorgeous!
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Thanks for the responses guys. The airliners I fly are plain ole' gloss white. That's a project for another day :)
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I have a 737 and 767 currently primed with Tamiya primer and ready to be painted in USAir and AAL liveries using Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome. I'm reading very conflicting advice about how to proceed, specifically when to use the Pledge floor thing, the micromesh, the black gloss base and the chrome.
Right now my plan is to mask off and paint the light grey areas. Then mask them and paint the gloss black tamiya spray paint. Then use micromesh to get the fuselages super smooth. Then use the mirror chrome and then clear coat. But I read the with spaz stix you first spray the chrome then the black backer which makes no sense to me. They say to clear coat it but then I read that clear coat dulls the finish. I reached paralysis by analysis. Anyone have any good info/anecdotes?
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So I've finally got my Iwata Eclipse Airbrush, my PointZero Compressor/Tank (off Amazon for $90), my cleaning pot/kit and I'm ready to get started.
I'm very confused reading about clear coats though. My first couple models are USAir and AMR bare metal. I plan to use light gray for the fairings, etc and Spazstiks ultimate mirror chrome for the fuselage and metal parts.
So my question - why clear coat? What does it do? When should I do it? After the grey and before the black gloss? After the chrome? After the decals?
On another note, anyone recommend the airbrush spaz chrome vs the spray can?
Thanks as always
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So I live in a townhouse with limited space and a small garage and all the spray booths I'm reading about basically need a fan and a vent to somewhere outside which is not practical with my set up. Anyone have a similar situation? Is a booth necessary if I use a furnace filter and a respirator with the garage door open?
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So after months of research I think I've narrowed my decision to an Iwata HP-CS Eclipse or the HP-CR Revolution for my first airbrush. Anyone have any final thoughts on either of these? Looks like about $140 for the HP-CS and $95 for the Rev. My anticipated use scope is 1/144 airliners. The Eclipse looks great but one thing I'm reading is that the nozzle is smallish at .35mm. Is this something that would likely be a problem for spraying fuselages, wings, etc?
I plan on purchasing a compressor/tank for about $90 on amazon. Thanks for feedback!
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Broke beyond repair one Revell 767-300 (1/144) windshield and lost another. Anyone have any suggestions on how to replace or scratchbuild?
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Thanks Bob. I was kind of thinking the same thing. I ordered some of the curvy tamiya tape and plan to use that around the wing body fairings. This is my first attempt using this technique. I've basically used Chrome spray paint from Lowes in the past but want to try airbrushing chrome.. Do you have a good suggestion for the gray? I know voodoo gray was the choice of the past, but it seems hard to come by these days.
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Working on AAL and USAir jets with polished aluminum finishes and had a question about application. I plan to use Spazstick mirror chrome over tamiya black gloss coat. Is there an ideal time between application of the black gloss coat and the chrome paint? IOW do I need to apply the chrome soon after the gloss? Also, is it better to mask and paint the light grey parts of the fuselage and tail first or is it ok to mask the chrome once cured then paint the gray?
Thank you, -
Not sure how much this helps but..
https://www.jetphotos.com/photo/62094
Also search Freedom Air (barf) since they did some of the flying for AWAex and Mesa too.
1/100 Entex Air Force One 707 build
in Airliner Modeling
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So what happened? Looked great in the pics....what did you mess up and what did you learn?