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falcon91352

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Everything posted by falcon91352

  1. Here are the ingredients used for the airbrush session: Airbrush of choice: Harder & Steenbeck Infinity CR 0,2mm needle Colours: Xtracrylix XA1132 FS16251 Medium Grey and XA1157 FS16176 Dk. Grey Mod. Eagle Thinners: MRP MRP-AT Acrylic Thinner, Mr. Color Leveling Thinner, Tamiya Lacquer Thinner The thinning process is very essential. At first a few drops of paint are given in a small glass jar. Then a few drops of MRP-AT are added, which is stirred well. Then Mr. Leveling Thinner comes in addition until the mixture has the consistency of milk and again, it
  2. The left side tail after the airbrushing treatment
  3. Hello David

     

     

    I regret that I did´t foundtime to answer your last email, because I was so busy recently.

     

    Today I did a small private workshop here at home and I should having more time soon.

     

    You will here from me then again!

     

     

    Greetings

     

    Christian

  4. The camouflage pattern on the tail is predefined by a mask from Kabuki tape, which is cheaply available in DIY warehouses here in Germany. The masking means not, that I will do hard edges with the camouflage, which I really don´t like, when the original planes actually shows smooth transitions between the colours. The only reason of masking is to save time. The process ofairbrushing of camouflage schemes can be somewhat tricky and time consuming, due to the constant check of the pattern with references, then continuing with airbrushing, checking again, etc.. You also can draw the
  5. Thanks guys for your nice comments, which does support me in continuing purposefully. The Eagle now has been painted in FS36251 Medium Grey. I am using Xtracrylix paints for the Mod-Eagle scheme which are very accurate. The Xtracrylix paints are known as having somewhat iffy properties during airbrushing. During my preparations for a workshop at the SMC at Eindhoven in October, I did many experiments and trial runs with different modelling acrylic paints and thinners and found out some surprising results. More on this at a later stage here, when fine line airbrushing is demanded for an ac
  6. PE sets in use are Eduard 48832, 49274 and 49709. I am going to do the Mod-Eagle scheme, correct. Paints are from Xtracrylix, which are spot on.
  7. Thank you guys for these very encouraging comments! Here two more shots of the upper side preshading, which is limited to those areas which will be painted in the lighter grey shade. The darker the color shade, the more is the effect of preshading decreasing, thus doing here some past shading treatments , which is way more effective there. I thought about utilizing the black basing technique on this model, but I have aborted this plan, because I achieved very nice results on my recent Alpha Jet after conducting some past shading techniques which will be decribed later on.
  8. The F-15 after preshading, which was done with Hataka paints.
  9. What a mess! I have changed to Imageshack and will subsequently reload the pictures over the next days/ weeks. Of course, new photos are coming too, the progress is slow, but smoothly going on.
  10. I have to agree to Galfa, that the Hasegawa F-15C has a few areas, which are more accurate compared to the GWH kit (canopy shape cross section, ejection seat). On the other side, the GWH also has areas, where it is better then the Hasegawa kit (shape of top front fuselage, engine bulges). However, may be the most essential is the better detailing and fit of the GWH one. A real nightmare of the Hasegawa kit is the fit of the wing to fuselage joint. Many hours of filling, sanding,rescibing and riveting have to be spent here for a satisfying result. if this is not properly executed, y
  11. The topside of the canopy panel after the general paintwork
  12. The canopy panel also underwent som major modification. Eduard set 49-274 for the Hasegawa F-15C played a major role with its perforated plates. To my opinion, an essential detail which Eduard missed to produce for the GWH Eagle and even the 1:32 Tamiya one. However, a lot of plastic on the GWH part had to be removed to make the Eduard parts fit. Some smaller things were added too.
  13. Wow, what a nice F-15E is going on here! The interior details are nicely represented and you have addressed the problem with the too deep panel lines on the top fuselage very well. The additional rivet lines will enhance the model even more, since those are well visible on the real plane, those are accurate, too. Keep good work! Greetings Christian
  14. The part after the reworking process. The seam line was puttied, sanded and primed three times after nothing from the seem was visible. Later, the gun area will be rejoined and blended in perfectly with the fuselage.
  15. One of the difficult to handle areas of the kit is the gun muzzle area, which is quite problematric due to the horzontal split of the fuselage halves. The seam line is going straight horizontally through the gun area, what makes it difficult to putty and sand. I decided to remove this part from the fuselage, which makes handling and reworking much, much easier.
  16. Shown here is the seam of the upper and lower wing halves, which are causing a bit of rework. Mediams used are Tamiya Putty, Ammo of MIG one shot primer and Mr. Surfacer 500. the panel lines are carefully rescribed with a pointy needle and piece of Dymo Tape as a ruler.
  17. I want to sxcuse for posting no updates during the last two months. Real life events prvented me to do so, but in a short time, the progress will gto ahead. Stay tuned! Thank you very much to all for the nice comments and hints and tips, which all is very encouraging!
  18. One of the areas, which are deserving some rework is the omission of the position lights. GWH represented them only as a panel line on solid grey plastic. For a realistic look, I want to portray those with clear plastic, which will be painted later with Tamiya Clear Red.
  19. Close uo picture of the left side rear fuselage. Here, a bit of putty was necessary. I tested the Ammo of MIG white one shot primer, which works very well. It sprays beautifully, isn´t smelling and after 24 hrs. drying time, it shows an excellent sanding performance. Adhesion is very good, it even withstands dymo tape, which I use as a ruler for riveting purposes. The label indicates, that Ammo of MIG one shot primer is made in USA. Is ist may relabeled Stylerynez? I don´t know this stuff, but reviews show the same performance I ncountered, which lets me to the assumption, that it is may be th
  20. Top and lower fuselage/ wing halves are mated. Engineering is very clever and fit is very good
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