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Everything posted by falcon91352

  1. Hello I am glad, that ARC is back and I would like to crate my first in progress topic here. The kit is a 1:48 Great Wall Hobby # L4817 F-15C MSIP II, which should be finished in the Mod-Eagle scheme of 53rd Fighter Squadron/ 52nd Fighter Wing at Spangdahlem Air Base. The F-15C and -D were based there from 1994-99. Since I am living in the triangle of Spangdahlem AB and the former Bitburg and Hahn AB, my choice is obvious, that an "Eifel Eagle" should be modelled.
  2. the48ers.48 a new modelling project

    Hello In a couple of days, the new modelling project the48ers.com will be launched. http://www.the48ers.com/ We will see, how they are going to surprise us. It is alsready known, that the will release resin upgrade sets, PE sets and decals for post-WW2 aircraft. I am looking forward, which subjects they will treat! Greetings Christian
  3. Many modellers having problems to reproduce the feathered look of camouflage schemes. A realistic appearance can be achieved by free airbrushing, whatlooks like a challenging job to many. Here, I would like to show a time saving and less risky method of applying realistic camouflage schemes shown with Red Line coloors from Hataka. Recently, I acquired some Hataka Red Line Acrylics and had problems with some fast clogging of the airbrush needle. I find their paint sets very appealing and all what I have seen and heard about is, that their tones are quite accurate. Half a year ago, I bought the Modern Luftwaffe Paint Set Vol. 4 HTK-AS66. With their original thinner, I also experienced the clogging and since then, I tried many other thinning formulas for airbrushing with mixed success. I found their Lacquer Thinner quite good for airbrushing the acrylics, but adhesion was quite poor. I think, that I have found a very good manner of processing now, which should enable anybody doing free hand camouflage schemes without any problems quickly. A week ago, I held a workshop at the SMC 2017 near Eindhoven/ NL and all participants have replicated the easy workability successfully, which proved me that my excellent results were not gained by chance. Now, I would like to show how it works nicely. My airbrush of choice is the Harder & Steenbeck Infinity CR, which I have now since 5 years in use and I am very satisfied about. For this trial, I have fitted the 0,2mm needle/ nozzle combo, which is quite worn and looks more 0,3mm. But it is still working nicely. At first, I gave the test object a coat of RAL7030 Stone Grey mixed with the brand new MRP Thinner MRP-AT in a ratio of 2:1. I added a drop of Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver, which works wonderfully. The new MRP Acrylic Thinner chimes together with Hataka Red Line colours nicely. The paint dries quickly and can be handled after 15 minutes. However, I let it dry overnight for forther treatment. Then, it can be smoothended with 6000 or 8000 grade Micromesh or just wiping with the finge
  4. Easy airbrushing of camouflage schemes

    To avoid the much feared paint lifting, only use low tack masking tapes, like Kabuki. You further can reduce adhesion by stick and remove it from the forehead or nose and repeat it one or two times after the tape is no longer sticking, just adhering slightly.
  5. F-15C 1:48 G.W.H. 53rd FS/ 52nd FW

    Hello Vitaly Thank you very much for your reply. I try to add more step-by-step photos in the future, but I must confess that I sometimes forget about during the building process, when I am feeling myself always in a state of trance Here, I have compiled some step-by-step photographs and informations about the previously described painting method. At Britmodelle, I recently did the same.
  6. Easy airbrushing of camouflage schemes

    A rought paint : thinner ratio of the "witches´ brew" is: 1 part Hataka Red Line paint 1 part MRP Acrylic Thinner 4 parts Mr. Levelling Thinner 2 parts Tamiya Lacquer Thinner For the future, I will buy more Hataka Red Line sets and hope, that the line will be expanded. There are still some serious gaps to fill, like modern French Armed Forces and Swiss Air Force paint sets to name but a few. Please try this for yourself and share your experience here. Have fun! Here two more pics which show the nice results, which took just a couple of minutes of time:
  7. Easy airbrushing of camouflage schemes

    The result is looking convincing and was achieved in a very short time. The "witches brew" is very nice for fine line work with the airbrush and cloggig does not happen at all. It also can be used for large area painting, but due to its low viscosity it does not cover well and many coats are necessary. However, the finish is very smooth and adhesion on plastic is very good. Since it contains some thinners of the hot type, one might assume that the fumes will smell aggressively, but it is not the case fortunately.
  8. Easy airbrushing of camouflage schemes

    Here the result after lifting the masking tape. Please note the misty thin coat along the edges, which shows the demarcation line quite easily for the next step. The ingredients for the following treatment are visible on this picture too. Now, I want to achieve a realistic smooth blending of the light and darker grey tones. With the original Hataka Thinner this is very tricky and time consuming job due to the feared tip clogging. I have experimented with a lot of thinners and fluids recently, but the new MRP Thinner changed life significantly. Now, I am using a highly diluted RAL7030 mixed with a formula, I call the "witches´brew". At first, I mix a small amount of Hataka RAL7012 Basalt Grey with the MRP Thinner in a 1:1 ratio and stirring it thoroughly. Then, I am adding the double amount of Mr. Levelling Thinner and again, a complete one minute stir is essential. Finally, a few drops of Tamiya Lacquer Thinner are aery dded and again, another well executed stir follows. The mix should be highly fluid and sprays beautifully. I am now spraying along the edge into the dary gray area.
  9. Easy airbrushing of camouflage schemes

    As previously said, my goal is to produce a nice free hand sprayed camouflage pattern within a short time period. Next step is to mask the part, which shotd remain in RAL7030 Stone Grey. Masking and free hand spraying is looking quite contradictory, but see later what happens. Now, I am mixing RAL7012 Basalt Grey with the MRP Acrylic Thinner 2:1 and one or two drops of Flow Improver. A 1:1 mix also works and gives a smoother finish, but does not cover as good and need more coats. Now, I am spraying the Basalt Grey into the non masked area. Please avoid to spray directly onto the boarder of the masking tape. Apply only a slight misty coat here to avoid a buildup of too much paint here, which results in a nasty step later.
  10. F-15C 1:48 G.W.H. 53rd FS/ 52nd FW

    Here are the ingredients used for the airbrush session: Airbrush of choice: Harder & Steenbeck Infinity CR 0,2mm needle Colours: Xtracrylix XA1132 FS16251 Medium Grey and XA1157 FS16176 Dk. Grey Mod. Eagle Thinners: MRP MRP-AT Acrylic Thinner, Mr. Color Leveling Thinner, Tamiya Lacquer Thinner The thinning process is very essential. At first a few drops of paint are given in a small glass jar. Then a few drops of MRP-AT are added, which is stirred well. Then Mr. Leveling Thinner comes in addition until the mixture has the consistency of milk and again, it is thoroughly stirred. A few drops of Tamiya Lacquer Thinner can be added as well, which gives the mixture a better bite into the plastic for improved adhesion. This mixtures provides excellent coverage, good adhesion and the tendency of clogging the needle tip of the airbrsuh is minimal. Xtracrylix paints are often criticized for the feared clogging effect. Anybody who has some dusty Xtracrylix jars standing in the rear corner of the modelling room should trying out this and probably, you will be amazed how nice the results will be!
  11. F-15C 1:48 G.W.H. 53rd FS/ 52nd FW

    The left side tail after the airbrushing treatment
  12. Hello David



    I regret that I did´t foundtime to answer your last email, because I was so busy recently.


    Today I did a small private workshop here at home and I should having more time soon.


    You will here from me then again!






  13. F-15C 1:48 G.W.H. 53rd FS/ 52nd FW

    The camouflage pattern on the tail is predefined by a mask from Kabuki tape, which is cheaply available in DIY warehouses here in Germany. The masking means not, that I will do hard edges with the camouflage, which I really don´t like, when the original planes actually shows smooth transitions between the colours. The only reason of masking is to save time. The process ofairbrushing of camouflage schemes can be somewhat tricky and time consuming, due to the constant check of the pattern with references, then continuing with airbrushing, checking again, etc.. You also can draw the scheme with a pencil, but I prefer the masking method. It is mandatory to spray only a misty coat of paint along the edges to avoid a build up of paint there, which would result in a hideous step. The mask should be removed early and the pattern alreday is clearly discernable. The airbrushing work now is continoued with free hand airbrushing along the colour border to the centre of the pattern.
  14. F-15C 1:48 G.W.H. 53rd FS/ 52nd FW

    Thanks guys for your nice comments, which does support me in continuing purposefully. The Eagle now has been painted in FS36251 Medium Grey. I am using Xtracrylix paints for the Mod-Eagle scheme which are very accurate. The Xtracrylix paints are known as having somewhat iffy properties during airbrushing. During my preparations for a workshop at the SMC at Eindhoven in October, I did many experiments and trial runs with different modelling acrylic paints and thinners and found out some surprising results. More on this at a later stage here, when fine line airbrushing is demanded for an accurate representation of smooth transitions between the colours, which is done free-hand at best.
  15. F-15C 1:48 G.W.H. 53rd FS/ 52nd FW

    Preshading of the underside
  16. F-15C 1:48 G.W.H. 53rd FS/ 52nd FW

    PE sets in use are Eduard 48832, 49274 and 49709. I am going to do the Mod-Eagle scheme, correct. Paints are from Xtracrylix, which are spot on.
  17. F-15C 1:48 G.W.H. 53rd FS/ 52nd FW

    Thank you guys for these very encouraging comments! Here two more shots of the upper side preshading, which is limited to those areas which will be painted in the lighter grey shade. The darker the color shade, the more is the effect of preshading decreasing, thus doing here some past shading treatments , which is way more effective there. I thought about utilizing the black basing technique on this model, but I have aborted this plan, because I achieved very nice results on my recent Alpha Jet after conducting some past shading techniques which will be decribed later on.
  18. F-15C 1:48 G.W.H. 53rd FS/ 52nd FW

    The F-15 after preshading, which was done with Hataka paints.
  19. F-15C 1:48 G.W.H. 53rd FS/ 52nd FW

    What a mess! I have changed to Imageshack and will subsequently reload the pictures over the next days/ weeks. Of course, new photos are coming too, the progress is slow, but smoothly going on.
  20. Best F-15C?

    I have to agree to Galfa, that the Hasegawa F-15C has a few areas, which are more accurate compared to the GWH kit (canopy shape cross section, ejection seat). On the other side, the GWH also has areas, where it is better then the Hasegawa kit (shape of top front fuselage, engine bulges). However, may be the most essential is the better detailing and fit of the GWH one. A real nightmare of the Hasegawa kit is the fit of the wing to fuselage joint. Many hours of filling, sanding,rescibing and riveting have to be spent here for a satisfying result. if this is not properly executed, you will have a eyecatcher in a negative way. So my opinion is, the GWH tops the Hasegawa one by far. The optimal F-15C would be a GWH F-15C with Hasegawa canopy, but the windshield will not fit in any way. May be sometimes in the future, I will try to adapt the Hasegawa front fuselage section to a GWH kit.
  21. F-15C 1:48 G.W.H. 53rd FS/ 52nd FW

    Shown here are the products used
  22. F-15C 1:48 G.W.H. 53rd FS/ 52nd FW

    The topside of the canopy panel after the general paintwork
  23. F-15C 1:48 G.W.H. 53rd FS/ 52nd FW

    The canopy panel also underwent som major modification. Eduard set 49-274 for the Hasegawa F-15C played a major role with its perforated plates. To my opinion, an essential detail which Eduard missed to produce for the GWH Eagle and even the 1:32 Tamiya one. However, a lot of plastic on the GWH part had to be removed to make the Eduard parts fit. Some smaller things were added too.