oldcat

I got information sheets from one of the CA companies some time ago, and their suggestion for a strong bond was to put accelerator on one part and CA on the other and put the parts together. I have used this method on hard to glue items around the house and found it did give a stronger bond. I seldom use CA on models, so can't say much there. Also, the working time after applying the accelerator is not very long, maybe a minute for regular accelerator and a couple of minutes for their very hot accelerator. You need to work fairly quickly. HTH, Ed

First, I have used very many different cutters over the years and feel that the Xuron are a cut above many others. In their tools, the number indicates the tool (ie all 410 are precision cutters) and the letter suffix different grinds, which are often subtle differences. I had a 410T and picked up a410A on sale for cutting parts from the sprue and find little difference. The 2175 series are heavier duty cutters, the 2175B is a cutter for model railroad track as large as HO. Try that with a 410 and the tool will be ruined. If you are only going to use your cutter for cutting parts from sprue a

Even with the cup, it is still siphon feed-it just allows you to spray smaller quantities. With the typical 1.5 to 1.75 inch gauge which goes to 160 or 200 psi, it is so inaccurate and hard to read at the extremes that when you think you are getting 10 to 20 psi you are likely to be quite a bit lower given your results. I have added a 2.5 inch 0 to 60 psi gauge with a tee in the 1/4 inch line which has helped a lot. This gauge can be on a hose and hung where it is easy to read. Northern Tool is where I found mine here in the USA, I don't know where you would look. If you could even borrow a

I solve the problem of mixing Bondo, and any other items in tubes by squeezing it into a clean paint jar with a good seal. Now I can stir properly, see when it is well mixed and reach in to get the amount I need. This saves a lot of frustration. HTH, Ed

Woodworkers use what is really a big, soft eraser on a stick to clean sanding belts. I have some around and just use that. A common pencil eraser should work fine for small sanders. The light tan erasers that are about 1.5 inches long by 1 inch square should do the job. The nice thing about an eraser is that you can take a swipe over the eraser at any time without interrupting your work. Ed

Woodworkers have sanding disc cleaners, which are a large eraser on a wood or plastic handle. Since I can no longer do the woodworking, I use these on hobby sanders. A common gum eraser would be a good size for hobby use. This works well for most cleaning, but tough jobs sometimes need more. The metal bristle, oversize "toothbrushes" sold by Micro Mark and others help clean up when the band is badly caked. HTH, Ed

That's the standard set-up: There are two possible gauge locations so that you can put the gauge where you can see it. The extra hole gets a plug to seal it. Any moisture trap I have seen has had a plug in one hole. If your's does not, you will have to find a proper plug, usually a 1/8 inch pipe thread. HTH, Ed

J-10, First, you can put a GROUNDED cord on the fan. You will also need the connector that fits the round knock-out in the fan wiring box to secure the cord. Every bath fan I have seen is an induction motor and, therefore, brushless. With the two fans I use, I clean, oil and check them for any sign of deterioration of the coils and wiring. I have not found any. Some suggestions you may find helpful: You can build a trial booth with just a large cardboard box. This allows you to experiment with fan placement etc and not waste material or time building a box and later changing it. My first fa

After making 17 inside storm windows from acrylic sheet, I had a lot of cut-off pieces out of which I made display cases. I used Weld On 3, which I got from modern plastics, where I had bought the storm window frames. (Their shipping charges tend to be excessive) I also found that Ambroid Pro Weld would work. I have MEK, but found it would not touch the acrylic. Super glue did not do a good job either. To get a strong bond, you need a perfectly straight and flat edge to butt against to other piece and it needs to be clamped tightly until the weld sets up. Since I cut the acrylic with a heavy

Phil, One suggestion is to look at the focus distance given with each magnification. If you measure the distance you feel most comfortable working at now, you can select the Optivisor which allows working at that distance. Good luck, Ed

With any putty I've used, it always would separate with mostly thinner on top. Attempts to mix it in the tube were never very successful and I had a lot of waste. I finally had a brainstorm and squeezed the tube of Bondo I'm currently using into a Floquil paint bottle. Now I can mix it properly and reach in and get out just the amount I need. A great improvement. Good luck, Ed

The difference is that on D7 the ring is made up of 9 panels with scribe lines, while D8 is 1 solid ring with rivets on both edges. Good luck, Ed

I also rely on the touch-n-flow for most jobs, but sometimes use a brush. I have separate bottles of my solvents labeled "brush" and "needle." If you use a brush and carry some dissolved plastic back to the bottle and then use the same solvent with the touch-n-flow, dissolved plastic can get into the small tube and needle. It's quite a job to clean it out. Can you guess how I found that out? Good luck, Ed

Russ Clover of Clover House, Box 62R, Sevastopol, CA 95473-0062 Has some fine braided cable which is also quite limp. His products are mainly aimed at the model railroader crowd, but he has a lot of items useful for any modelers. The last I checked, he does business only by mail, and you have to order his catalog for $5.00. Check out www.cloverhouse.com. HTH, Ed

Micro Mark carries it and it can also be found at most hobby shops which carry model railroad supplies. Their paints used to be lacquers and DioSol was their special lacquer thinner. I think I heard that they had to change to enamel due to environmental regulations, but the current DioSol works with all their solvent based paints. I always use DioSo; for thinning, just to be safe, but use cheap lacquer thinner for clean up. HTH, Ed