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centuryfan

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About centuryfan

  • Rank
    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)
  • Birthday 09/09/1982

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    centuryfan@gmx.de
  • Website URL
    http://www.modellversium.de
  • ICQ
    115561597

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Germany, NRW
  • Interests
    post war jets in 1/72 scale
  1. There are many modeling websites out there: e.g. ARC, Hyperscale, Modellversium and Panzermodell, just to name a few of the big ones. All of them have hundreds or even thousands of gallery entries and kit previews in their data bases. A wealth of information that a modeler can access nowadays. But finding the right articles can be more difficult and frustrating than one might think. Not all websites feature search engines. And if they do, you still have to search each website individually to gather the desired information. Even google doesn’t help a lot but often only adds to the confusion by
  2. Nice to see this model again online after already having seen it live in Lübeck Great job!
  3. Very nice "do-it-yourself" improvements and overall finish! My only (minor) criticism would be the quite dark panel lines. I also often tend to stray to the dark side when it comes to the final panel wash - but I've found that a light (grey) wash looks more realistic than a sharp dark one All the best Bernd
  4. Hello, I'm currently researching my new model project which will be Hasegawa's 1/72nd scale F9F-2 Panther in Argentinian colors. Here's the decal sheet I'm going to use. I already found some useful external shots of Argentinian Panthers that helped me to determine the wheel bay color - white. This corresponds also with some in-service photos that I found in an Argentinian publication. However, I'm not yet sure about the cockpit color of the Argentinian Panthers. Somewhere I read that after March 1954 the Panther cockpit color changed from green to dark gull gray. And the ejection seats of A
  5. Hi folks! I'm planning to have another special week-end over at modellversium.de. So I'm now looking for articles that go with the chosen topic: airliners. I hope Steve doesn't mind me fishing here :blink: If you have any built models or in.box previews that fit the bill send them to berichte@modellversium.de. Please make sure not to send photos that are smaller than 640 pixels breadthwise. Concerning in box reviews have a look at our kit database to make sure the kit you wanna talk about hasn't been published before. Models and kits from all eras and all countries are welcome! A last note:
  6. @Kostucha and dragan_mig31: Thanks a lot :) I'm very happy this old kit is now finished! Here's now an article at modellversium.de with more photos. Text is in German though (but most things have been said here anyway). http://www.modellversium.de/galerie/8-flug...d-hasegawa.html
  7. Done! The landing gear is attached and it's not a tail sitter - that's a big relief. My last two models were tail sitter, a Gannet and a Gnat. I also added all the other small parts that come only right at the end because they would break off again if they were attached early. That's a small blade aerial(?) at the nose, the pitot tube made from wire and the fuel drain pipe at the rear. Here you can see that there's absolutely nothing in the gear wells. I guess (hope) the Sword offering will outshine this Hasegawa kit by far! And this is kind of my favourite shot. Sanding the air intakes
  8. Thanks for your comments, they keep me motivated Sooo...I demasked the canopy. I should have left the tape on it because what I saw didn't make me that happy. Luckily it's not so visible in the photos: There's some fog in the rear part of the canopy. Moreover some putty is visible where I filled the gap between the canopy and the rear fuselage. Not much but you see the mistake when you look closely inside the cockpit Ok, keep cool. There are two possibilities. 1) Open the canopy, fix everything, reattach it, fill again, sand again, paint again, hope all this correction work doesn't make th
  9. @dragan_mig31 & ReiRei0: Thanks a lot :)! Well, I really don't know much about the FAG. All information I'm using for my build is courtesy of the fine folks at www.laahs.com! Washday: well, not literally, of course. I mixed some black and white oil paint to get a grey washing. To dilute my oil paints I use Humbrol enamel thinner. The washing was applied with a small brush, panel by panel. After drying for a minute or so I wiped the excess paint off. After the washing - again - some future. Here's the result. Let's face it: I'm not really happy with this. The panel lines turned out way
  10. @ Pappa Sierra and richter111: Thanks a lot! I forgot to mention three little but important details - at least important for my FAG bird: Before I started decaling I painted a red ring around the two gun openings. This is visible in one of the reference photos of FAG 735 I'm using. And, to make this T-33 FAG 735, you have to split up the Microscale decal. Microscale supplies the tail code 753. But over at laahs.com they are sure that there never was a FAG T-Bird labeled 753. So I changed it a bit and now it's 735, of which photos exist. Another painting detail on the nose is the covered secon
  11. Thanks Primož The decals are on! The white-red-white ribbon and the shark mouth needed a bit more decal softener, but in the end they worked fine. The only kit decals that I used were the black walkways on the wings. They were very troublesome as they tended to break up into little parts due to their age. In the end I had to do some touch-up work with a fine brush. Here's an absolutely not staged photo of the decal work :) And that's how my little Tweety looks with all decals applied. Now it's time for a washing with grey all paint. But before I have - you've already guessed it - to
  12. @ dragan: Thanks! Wait for the new Sword T-33! I guess that will be easier to get than the old Hasegawa or Heller kits, and, of course, it should have recessed panel lines and more detail (resin parts like Sword's P-80). @ByronLeal: Thanks for the photo! That's almost exactly the paint scheme I'm going for. The only difference I see is the red fuselage ribbon. My T-33 will have a white-red-white ribbon instead (and it's not FAG 728 but 735).
  13. Painting resumes... The masking took so much time that there was none left to take any photos of it Anyway, here's how it looked after the first session where I painted the black nose, fin tip and anti glare panels on the tip tanks. Almost forgot: the panel around the guns was painted in another shade of metal (Revell 91) because that's how it looks on my reference photos. Next, the anti glare panel in front of the cockpit was painted in a slightly brighter shade of black. And here's also the first "real" color: red. I'll now spray a coat of future and then it's already time to mess up the
  14. Some more progress for you and me I've painted the model with Revell Aqua Color 99 Aluminium after the canopy gaps had been filled and sanded. When the color was dry - and it dries litteraly instantly - I airbrushed a coat of Future. Next, I drybrushed panel by panel with Revell Enamel 99 Aluminium to give the metal skin some structure. I think NMF surfaces are often a bit too clean on some models as the real thing has scratches and dents from the operational use. At least it's a difference if you want to depict a polished NMF showbird àla Thunderbirds or a plane that is less looked af
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