Jimd0586
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Everything posted by Jimd0586
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Thanks Skyhawk! I will look online for such a kit. And yes, pics would be greatly appreciated. My skills have improved over the years, but I am slave to my airbrush... I rarely use anything else. It would be nice to increase my skillset.
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I have my Prowler close to complete and would like to add exhaust stains. One thing I have always had a problem with airbrushing is thinning the paint and then the pressure. While I am sure these variables depend on the compressor and job, I usually use my brush at about 20 PSI. If I was going to slowly build up exhaust stains with Testor's oil airbrushing paint, should I move down in the PSI to like 10? Anyone have any tips?
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Thanks all. Got a replacement from Lucky Models and no bill for it. They weren't much for updates on shipping and status of the piece but hey, I won't complain!
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Thanks all. This started as a "how exactly do I get a replacement part/craft one myself, to a how did this happen and why, to a the model doesn't need nose weight!" Dave Roof, I do believe you. However, I will point out that the instructions in the kit (at least the one I have) says to add 50 grams to the nose for ballast. Regardless, lessons learned. I am still waiting on the replacement nose cone. Haven't heard anything from Kinetic or Lucky Models since they asked for my mailing address. It may be on its way or it may not be. Again, if anyone has ANY ideas as to how to make a ma
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Thanks for all the advice. I emailed lucky models, they got back to me quickly and asked only for my mailing address. Haven’t heard a peep since then, no bill, no tracking number, nothing. I’m crossing my fingers. As for the putty I used: squadron products white putty fast dry formula. And for the record, almost a week later and what’s left of the nose cone is still soft to the touch... so it’s ruined.
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So it’s destroyed. When I poked it the dent became huge and after that, without thinking it through I just pulled it apart. i did contact Lucky models and got a response. But it’s been slow. I do expect to get a replacement part but if it doesn’t come then I’m up a creek without a paddle...
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So I’m working on the Kinetic EA-6B and it’s coming together. I was placing the nose cone part and saw the instructions suggested weighting down the nose. I took my putty and filled the cone up and slide a couple quarters in as well for good measure. After an hour or so I glued the nose on the jet. The next day I painted the model. Now this afternoon, (24 hours after the paint job), I noticed wrinkles in the nose. As touched to see what was going on and the nose dented in like it was chewing gum when I touched it. I literally pulled it apart. It appears the putty disintegrated the plastic. Now
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So I’m working on the Kinetic EA-6B and it’s coming together. I was placing the nose cone part and saw the instructions suggested weighting down the nose. I took my putty and filled the cone up and slide a couple quarters in as well for good measure. After an hour or so I glued the nose on the jet. The next day I painted the model. Now this afternoon, (24 hours after the paint job), I noticed wrinkles in the nose. As touched to see what was going on and the nose dented in like it was chewing gum when I touched it. I literally pulled it apart. It appears the putty disintegrated the plastic. Now
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So, I’ve both black based and preshaded Models... but never both together. I tried blackbasing for the first time recently and liked the effect on my hasegawa F/A-18F. I then used a black wash to bring out panel lines. I was curious though if it’s possible to do both? Or would that be too busy? My thought is black base the model, then Marble cost it. Then go back with a darker brown or something like that (but still lighter than the black base coat) and only preshade a few major panel lines, not all of them. Then paint over with the thinned top coat. Would this work or
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Hey all. I have a specific aircraft I am making that a family friend flew. I was able to find the squadron markings, but the tail number is incorrect. It’s for VAQ-132 Scorpirons and is the version of the emblem on the Prowler that had the entire tail stinger. http://www.kitreview.com/reviews/prowlersdecalreviewsjk_1.htm The nose aircraft number is 500 and easy to change. In fact, the decal set comes with a 500. However, the tail number incorporated into the stinger is 162934 which can be found in some paintings online. my question is, how can I modify the s
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Thanks! Checked and it’s almost perfect! The aircraft number is 500 so I can use that from the sheet! The only problem is his tail number located within the scorpion Stinger is different. If anyone has any idea how I could figure out that, I’m all ears!!!! Just located the decal sheet and bought it! Thanks habu2. again, if you have suggestions on how to rectify the tail number on the stinger decal, let me know!
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Hey all, I’m building a model of an EA-6B prowler for a friend that flew one in VAQ-132 Scorpions. It’s the Kinetic 1/48 model. I need decals but can’t find any. Does anyone know if they were ever made and where I might look? Thanks! Jim
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Thanks all for each suggestion! I THINK I found the culprit: while cleaning the brush last night I removed the tip and noticed a small split at the end. Never thought that could happen and I’m not sure how it did happen. I ordered a new tip (among some other pieces). That puts my model building on hold for a while. Shucks. 😞
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Thanks for the tip. I’m curious if this is my problem. Considering the spray is fine usually with intermittent splatters, I wonder if it’s less the brush and actually old paint? I will take a brush cleaner/pipe cleaner to the airbrush tonight. I’ll be honest, this entire thing is frustrating. I have a Super Hornet I just finished blackbasing and I really want to do VFA-41 proud!
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Ok! How would one polish their needle?
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Hi all. PREFACE: I have a Badger Renegade brush and usually it works great. I try to run cleaner through it each time I finish painting. I also almost exclusively use Vallejo Model Air paints. Acrylics are easy cleanup so I tend to stick with them. I do realize they tend to dry fast and clog, which may be the problem. ISSUE: Lately, while painting I’ve noticed a consistent stream of paint coming out with intermittent splatters. The main stream is fine, but the splatters are occurring every couple of seconds. I have checked the needle and feel no burr on the end. I just
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I am building a P-3C Orion for a navy friend that was a member of VP-40. I ordered the 1/72 Hasegawa kit and thought all was well. However, after asking her if the decals were correct, she told me the tail emblem of the Marlin had changed by the time she got to the squadron. I want this to be as accurate as I can make it. Does anyone have any ideas as to how I might go about getting the tail emblem correct? Apparently this is the emblem that was on her plane and of course it is not what is included in the kit: https://www.alamy.com/150814-n-qr600-145-coronadoaug-14-2015
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I want to thank everyone for their suggestions. Tamiya curve masking tape sounds like a plan in the future. Rpeck, your circle stencil also seems like a good idea. Ultimately I found a few different size marker caps and used those as stencils. This was after a first poor job and sanding. Eventually one day I may get an after market spinner and replace this one (as it didn’t come out as well as I wanted after my first attempt. But that’s down the road. Now I’m painting the bird metallic which is another whole bad of wax. I have white aluminum and dark. I went over everything in whi
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Thanks Don. I was at Starbucks and saw there big straws. I decided to grab one. After work I will see if that can help out stenciling as well. I will also attempt to mask again using your suggestions. Jim
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Hi all. I am working on this Meng P-51 and making headway. I received some custom decal pics for "Baby Mine" from a fellow modeler on these forums. Construction is mostly finished, just now starting the outer coats of paint and detailing. If you google "P-51 Baby Mine": https://www.bravobravoaviation.com/en/north-american-p-51-mustang/285-p-51d-mustang-baby-mine-lt-stephen-c-ananian-505th-fighter-squadron-339th-fighter-group.html you can see the nose cone is white with a central red stripe. I am having a very tough time painting that red stripe. The nose cone in 1/48 is
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Last night I masked off a SBD dauntless 1/48 revel model. It was tedious work and a real test of patience. I used sliced painter's tape and maskrol. I then airbrushed the two canopy pieces. This morning I removed the masking and maskrol and found some overspray on the windscreen away from the frames. Additionally the glass is a bit foggy. I had dipped it in Future before I painted (a day before). Maybe it was the wrong way to remove glue, but I took a wood toothpick and rubbed away the paint where it was not supposed to be. I was pretty disappointed with the final result. I spent a lot of time
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Ok, so how do I post pics? I tried to but I'm limited to 0.1 MB. Is there anyway around that? I'd like to show you guys my finished P-40E! My phone pics are all bigger than 100 kb.
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WWII aerial combat paintings? Where to buy?
Jimd0586 replied to Jimd0586's topic in General Discussion
Thanks guys! :) -
In addition to building models, I also enjoy artwork. While a finished model is a work of art, I would like to augment my collection with some paintings. Does anyone know where I could look for some paintings of WWII fights, planes, aerial combat? I am not looking for prints (most of what I found after a quick google search). Any ideas? Thanks. - Jim
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Good morning all! So I have posted a lot lately as I have just gotten back into the hobby after a long hiatus. I wanted to build a really detailed model and bought the Hasagawa 1/32 Flying Tigers P-40E. It is coming along well and the cockpit is done. To make it really pop, I bought a set of RB Productions WWII Seatbelts in green for it. They came in last night. While I knew they would be small, I didn't quite realize how difficult they would be to put together. I also am already a bit stumped. Does this require a little glue? Has anyone tackled these? Any tips? I thought the long